Power stearing / rack flush 1980 us

[aluminum]

Anyone done this ? The Project to Flush the entire system and refill with Dexron 111 type Fluid
I understand to drop the alternator is the best way to access the Pump and Pump lines . However is this necessary ?
My Plan ( and perhaps this is a poor plan ) was:
(1) to disconnect the Power Steering
* Return Line * coming from the Rack ether at the rack or at the pump.
(2) Start Engine to pump the old fluid out with the return line from the rack or pump in a drain bucket ( this may require a hose attached to the line to reach a bucket )
(3) Continue to add new Fluid to reservoir motor running until the Fluid runs CLEAR to the drain bucket
( to have a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth some perhaps is a good idea also )
(4) Fill reservoir with new Fluid motor running until air out and full.
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The Questions :
(Q.A) what power steering line from the Pump is the Return Line ?
or from "Rack to pump". ( same thing ) > What Line is the correct one to disconnect : IE the Pressure return line Rack to Pump
At the Pump are 2 Lines one closer to the Motor and one closer to the Drivers side fender well . One line is the Pressure Out to rack and another line Pressure Return to Pump
( Or what Line on the Rack is the Return Line not sure what end of the line is most
easy to access ?)
Now I Know I can experiment by removing one line , start the engine and see what happens but perhaps someone on the forum knows this Info already thanks in advance
(Q.B) Where is most easy place to disconnect the Line
" at the Rack or at the Pump ? " Requiring the least amount of work
( I did read to watch for Sealing Washers when disconnecting these lines )
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Reason for Flush :
I have noted my Fluid is Dark and Dirty but it not leaking . The Steering works fine .
So My take on all of this is that to Change the Fluid and get as much Crud out as possible would be very good maintenance . As in a Automatic Transmission are Seals and many Parts that don't need perhaps Very old dirty Fluid and small Bits of the same sort of stuff one might find in a Transmission pan .
Humm what did I forget ?
any suggestions from perhaps someone who has done this I would appreciate the help . I have the early Type Pump ( 1980 US ) but my guess is that perhaps well not make a difference ?

[Mrmerlin]

KISS
jack up car use jack stands,

pull down on each inner rack boot to see if it has fluid in it,
if so then a new rack may be needed.

Continuing

remove 1 banjo bolt on the rack,do the easiest one you can reach,
turn the wheels back and forth a few times to drain the system.

remove the alternator from its mount , hang it with coat hanger.
NOTE dont let it hang from the wires this can shear off the blue wire inside the orange sheathing.

remove the curved line from the back of the pump, catch any fluid.
remove the return line to the bottom of the reservoir .
replace the reservoir and the curved hose,
NOTE use new parts the res will have a new filter and the curved line is usually leaking
install the alternator
install the banjo bolt with new sealing washers.
NOTE always use new sealing washers to prevent leaks.

Fill the tank, start the car, turn the wheel 5 times slowly lock to lock .

NOTE bounce off the lock dont hold it there,
as this can overpressure the rack seals and cause them to fail.

[aluminum]

Thanks for any input
My Rack is in Good Condition and not leaking ( like out the Boots to tie rod ends ) or elsewhere
I am looking to Flush the system not Drain it . to Flush the System under normal Pump pressure .
So if anyone happens to Know what side has the pressure from the pump it well save time ,and
I can undo the other line > the Return line .
To Remove a Line at the Rack well eliminate any need to remove a line at the pump or drop the alternator
I expect I can discover this without much issue .
My Experience ( a lot but not on a 928 ) is that to flush the system is quite different then to drain the system . Draining the system well not push out particles caused by normal wear created by use, like Flushing the system .
its also simple to do most often requiring less effort most often .

[aluminum]

So no help here yet so I had a closer look at the system. Humm Its simple .
No Need to Jack up the Car . Takes 10 to 15 min
No Lines to undo under the car , none of that but much simpler .
Upon Looking I see the Pressure return line comes in to the side of the reservoir
Photo of Reservoir with " PRESSURE RETURN " Line removed and a piece of old washing machine hose attached to the reservoir
" Inlet " to keep Fluid from spilling out.

Photo of Return line removed from Side of reservoir . Note Dirty Fluid in reservoir

Top View reservoir

Top View with Piece of Drain hose slipped over " PRESSURE RETURN " Line I used a old piece of garden hose long enough to reach the ground / Drain Bucket

Drain Bucket with Hose . Now you start the car to let the pump Flush all the old fluid out. You MUST ADD NEW CLEAN FLUID to continue the Flush. I used 2 Quarts before the Fluid ran out nice and clean

this is a great way to Flush the entire system with only one simple line to remove.
Also a good idea should you want to Pull your Rack for some reason .
Steering racks and Pumps are very Costly for 928 Cars and to keep then Clean with Fresh Fluid is a Smart Savings Long Term

[aluminum]

All New Fluid Topped off with some Air Bubbles still on top . Should recheck after 24 Hrs.
Note To Flush the pump and rack well get a lot of normal "Shavings " and small / tiny pieces of inner workings of Rack / Pump / hoses out. My Drain bucket contained the normal amount . For a few dollars it costs to buy some new Fluid you can save a costly repair down the road . I recommend this Flush takes a few Mins only . Note with a clean rag wipe out the reservoir before " final filling " with new Fluid your done.

[AirtekHVAC]

Ok, you sold me....I'm doing this soon!

[JhwShark]

Definitely KISS!