fuel pump issue

[lukerman]

2 weeks ago, my daughter took the 86 out and later that day it would start. i asked her if she put gas in it. she said no. (dont know where the money went that i gave her lol). i took 4 gallons with me, put it in, and tried to start with starting fluid to get it primed and without fluid, it would stay running. came back 2 hrs later and it started. no other issues.

today, it repeated same symptoms but putting fuel in it didnt fix it(gas gauge doesnt work below 1/2). Where is the fuel pump? is it under the rear hatch ,under the white cover with round plastic cap with a couple wires and fuel line going to it or is that the sending unit?

Thanks for help. you guys are awesome.

[Danglerb]

Its on the bottom like a pair of trap door pajamas, you should be able to hear it run without removing the panel.

Check for sound.
Check for voltage.

[Mrmerlin]

the fuel pump is under the car at the back side of the fuel tank,
look up under the rear bumper cover,
you will see 2 10mm nuts these hold the cover on .

Usually fueling issues are caused by the fuel pump fuse failing to make good contact ,
this can be evidenced by seeing the plastic being browned at the pump fuse,
OR the output wire on the rear of the CE panel isnt making good contact,
thus no power to the pump even though the fuse is good,

So testing the lower wire from the fuel pump fuse would tell you ,
BUT you need to drop the CE panel to test this.

Also its wise to replace the running relays one at a time till the engine starts

[lukerman]

guys, you never cease to amaze me. I tapped on the relay and it started. I actually feel stupid that I didn't try it first. If you are ever in St Louis area, I'm buying lunch. Thanks

[aluminum]

The Relay Prongs May be Corroded and also tricky to remove so remove with Care

[Dadddio]

Just went through this.
Read my topic "just quits running".
Follow what Merlin says.
Recommend CE panel R/R.
Not that hard and does wonders.
Good to know there's another S around town.

[harborman]

You might want to remove all the relays and clean all contacts on relays and panel. I replaced all #53 type relays which are about $5/ea.

[lukerman]

I will do just that this weekend. Maybe I can drive accross the "creek" and meet up with you Dadddio, to exchange horror stories lol. Mine, unfortunately, is not a "clean" 928. It is a daily driver and although I regret it some days, I plan to keep it for as long as I can. My 18 year old daughter would kill me if I sold it.

I am in the middle of a motor swap in my 1971 mustang, removing a 351c and installing a fuel injected 302 with overdrive tranny.

Between the 2, I keep myself hopping back and forth to each car, to repair something.

Thanks again to all that responded. I will share with you the conversation I had with a mustang buddy of mine. I recently went on a mustang forum as well as this one, to get fresh ideas. I immediately received responses from this site, but never received one from the mustang site, to date. My friend, who is a mustang guy, explained it by proposing that the mustang guys were busy. He and I both know the truth. It is clear that a different class of people exist here.Thanks.

[Danglerb]

I'd bore and stroke the 351C to 408 or more and enjoy the fat torque.

[XLR8928]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

I'd bore and stroke the 351C to 408 or more and enjoy the fat torque.

As I recall, the '71 is one of the "Clydesdale" Mustangs (larger). I think a Boss 429 would be a nice alternative. Or, if you want to piss off the Blue Oval faithful, perhaps
an LS motor? Hmmm?

[Danglerb]

351C is a Cleveland as opposed to a windsor block. The old school Ford hot rod motor sequence is 302 which can be squeezed to a 306 with just largest oversize pistons, then stroke to a 331 or 347. Not without issues but nice options. The 351C OTOH is a much stronger basic block, anything over about 450 in a basic 302 even an early Mexican block, is a time bomb, 351C is good for more than double that. Been awhile, but I think a 408 is one of the hot configurations.