Leak at fuel pump?

[jheis]

My '89 5 spd developed a miss on acceleration. I figured the first line of attack would be to replace the fuel filter since I had one on the shelf.

That's when the fun started....

The "mechanic" who was in there before me apparently owned two pair of vice grips. He used one pair to round off the 17mm fitting on the hard line that threads into the filter and the other pair to counter-hold and bugger up the banjo. Everything was cranked down really, really tight.

I installed the new filter and now have a major fuel leak. Fuel is spraying out under pump pressure. It appears to be coming from around the banjo, but I can't really tell, since everything is wet and fuel is just spraying out. I've had it apart numerous times and have gone through about a half a dozen crush washers. The last several times I've pulled the whole assembly and re-assembled it on the bench - still no luck.

I thought that maybe the hard line had been distorted from being mangled and over torqued, so I got a used one from 928 Int. I used Dr. Bob's tip of using teflon paste on all the threads and contact surfaces, assembled it on the bench and stuck it back in the car last night. No joy - still have massive fuel leak - fuel spraying out under pressure.

I have not replaced the check valve or the thicker crush washer between the check valve and the pump. I have, however, anealed the washer twice.

I am at a loss and don't know what to try next.

I guess the likely suspects are are washer between the pump and the check valve, the check valve itself, or maybe the threads in the pump body were damaged from being over torqued.

Anyone dealt with this kind of a leak before? At this point I'm seriously thinking of becoming one of those "previous owners" putting the whole thing together with JB Weld...

An intervention would be appreciated.

James

[Mrmerlin]

For the benefit of the PP trust.

wow sounds like your in deep with this repair.

Here is how I would suggest to fix it the first time.

First order 6 sealing washers,
3 of these will be kept in your ash tray for spares.

Buy a new check valve. since your old one is damaged.

Buy a new hard line,
yes its expensive but its very likely your old one is damaged,
NOTE there is no economy in buying a used hard line,

Buy a new fuel filter.

With your collection of new parts add some PTFE sealant to the new check valve (just a bit) then fit a new sealing washer and screw this into the pump make it tight.

Then assemble the other parts, fit them to the pump holding assembly loosely so the parts can move as needed.

Use anti seize on all of the threads and the B nuts,
fit the other 2 sealing washers and then tighten the cap nut to less than than you tightened the check valve.

What your trying to do with this is not crush the new hard line,

so only use as much force to make the connection tight.

NOTE the sealing washers are one time use,
once you tighten them they are not to be used again.

NOTE using a damaged hard line will result in a leak.

NOTE using used washers will result in a leak.

NOTE using damaged parts will result in a leak.

NOTE to check the hard line simply put a straight edge on the ends of the banjo surfaces,
the faces should be flush from the inside to the outside,
over tightening this part with the capnut crushes the surfaces and moves them out of plane.