Custom coolant vent, corrosion, or glory hole for 928 loving mice?

[spooledx2]

So I was finally getting ready to bolt the intake stuff back on the engine after tearing off all of the manifold, hoses injection, ect... To do a upper end refresh. I started cleaning up the heads and valley when I noticed a clump of JB Weld type stuff. It wasn't stuck very well so I popped it up... And to my surprise this is what I found....

[IMG][/IMG]

A nice hole right into the water jacket on the head. I popped up the mess on the surface and used a vacuum as I slowly drilled out what was there as it was seeping coolant and wanted to keep the stuff from going into the head as much as possible.

It's a hole about 3/16 in diameter.... This is on the passenger side next to the #5 intake port... Upon closer inspection there is quite a bit of epoxy down in there as well. It's a pretty jagged hole, not threaded either. I was also surprised to see how thin the aluminum is in that area. Less than 1/8 thick... It almost looks to have been punched through. I doubt it was made from corrosion. So that was a bummer. I was going to yank the head off and fix it until Rob aka BoiseShark suggested I just swap in the super low mileage 1980 motor in to it.

Any ideas on what might have caused this? Lol

So looks like I will be yarding this old mill out and doing an engine swap.

Will the long block M28/13 interchange with the M28/03 that is in the car at the moment? To me it looks the same... Is this a correct assumption?

Thanks,
Ramon

[Mrmerlin]

Whoa first lets get the cylinder counting correct ,
the Firing order is 1-4 on the right side of the engine bay,
and 5-8 on the left ,
as seen sitting in the driver seat of a USA car
#1 is at the right front #5 is at the left front while seated.

I would take a quarter and cut out the edge of one side so it will fit then JB weld it to the head and continue on.
NOTE if you dont like the quarter then get a Kroner,

this will seal up the leak ,
make sure to wipe down the surfaces with acetone and hit them both with some 400 grit paper

[spooledx2]

MrMerlin,
Sadly yes I know the cylinder order on a 928 quite well.... But still being half asleep when I posted that(just getting up to work swing shift) I must have been on crack. Thanks for the correction though :-).

I know I can patch it... Though I do hate the thought of more JB Weld, although a Kroner,with it's sweet sweet hole in the center of the cone might be ideal for some :-).I could even TIG weld it up, but my main concern is how much of the JB Weld is actually down in the water passage. So since I have a good low mile motor I think I will just swap it while I decide what other motor swap I will do for Uber power (LS, or 2JZ since it will be more of a track car). It will give me a chance to clean up the engine compartment and fix the wiring harness while I am in there.

On to my other question of the interchangeability of the two motors... Will those interchange ok?

Thanks again for the quick response.
Ramon

[aluminum]

Your correct Tig weld is a good way to go . I had this problem on time long ago and went to a welding shop that welded Aluminum every day and where expert at it . They welded my Air Nailer where it had a large crack from being dropped on cement about 4 inches long . I Ved it all out and they welded it for me for $10 since i carried it in to the shop
Perhaps you could trailer your car to such a shop and they could weld it for you out front. Then all you need to do is Grind the weld down flat
my Weld just flowed out like liquid metal and has been working for some years now and is also very thin metal in that area like say 60 Thousands + or -
I would consider drilling the top of the hole out wider just a say 15 or 20 Thousands deep with a larger then the hole drill to get more meat to weld to but ask the experts about that at the shop .
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TIG (tungsten inert gas) welder. This type of welder uses a tungsten electrode and an inert gas to shield the welding area. The precision achieved with this type of welder is crucial when working with aluminum, especially thin pieces.
Aluminum filler rod. This is the material that will bond the two pieces. Try to avoid using rusty or dirty filler rods, as these will lead to weaker welds.
A canister of argon gas for use as shielding. Pure argon is a cost effective gas solution. 3% helium can be added to increase arc stability.