What you get with 1.27mm end play??

[FIREMN]

Well, Its official,
I have a Porsche 928 Coffee Table.

End play was 1.27 mm.

So, now what.

What will the damage be if I put it back together and drive it till it seizes?
Will it take out the valve train or trash the tranny?

If not, then I can put it back together, allow for all of the crank travel when I connect the TT and drive on waiting until it finally goes.

I have all of the parts for MM, TB/WP, intake refresh, oil pan stud kit, new cam gears, etc. I will just save it until for the replacement engine.

Or if it will ruin more than just block and crank should I start parting out the engine, sel the heads intake, etc?

Thanks for your help..
A sad day in my house..

It gave me a good run...

[Rod Schneider]

Has the crankshaft started wearing into the block, or is the thrust bearing face still there? If there is no block damage, then I'd think a new set of main bearings would fix it...........

[FIREMN]

Howdy Rod,
Block has extensive damage, bearing face is gone.
Crank and block are toast.
But, it was running strong before I pulled the engine.


So what's your opinion?

Crank travel is waaayy out 1.27MM
Crank shows high temp indications
Block is chewed up.
Bearing face is gone

I released preload when I bought it.
Most damage seems to have happened during PO.

I have been getting clean oil changes and running strong for 2 years.

Do you see any issue with me putting it back together and running it as is?

If block and crank are already toast, what have I got to loose?
Will there be collateral damage to other high end parts?
IE Heads, valve train, transmission.

I plan on another engine, just not soon.

Thnx

[Rod Schneider]

I just saw your thread on Rennlist........I honestly don't know what the collateral damage would be to continue running this engine, but personally, it would bug the daylights out of me knowing it may let go in a big way at any time.............
Sorry to see the damage.

[Sapientoni]

Smokey Yunick claimed the biggest advantage to aluminum block was easy to weld and repair after being damaged. If you look closely at 928 or 944 blocks, you find spots that have been welded when new. I guess a porous spot or two. I'd have the damage welded up and then machine it back down. Align bore and you'd be good to go. Using an earlier than 87 block has raised some unknown issues in my experience and in other peoples too. EG, the guy who had a souped up S4 engine and the shop built it on an earlier 5.0 block with the mounting bulges in the "valley" that interfered with the intake of the '87+. He couldn't get it to run and was flaming the shop on EBAY.