Timing belt inspection

[Jagawar]

I want to give my belt an inspection is there any way to do this without tearing the whole thing apart? I can see the belt through the hole in the top of the cover but that is all . "getting deeper into the forest"

[harborman]

If you have a 32 valve motor and don't know the history on the belt, you might consider putting a new one on.

[Jagawar]

Yes i am resigned to do just that I have most of the parts on order..

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Jagawar

Yes i am resigned to do just that I have most of the parts on order..

I did mine when I got the car, There is a nice article you can down load giving the entire procedure with illustrations. I found it on Rennlist 928. It might be on here as well. I used a Gates belt and new water pump. Although my water pump was probably fine, I did it anyway. You will also need a special tool to set the belt tension. This is a job to take your time on, so don't rush it and follow the instructions to the T. If in doubt about anything, the guys here will be of great help.

[harborman]

You will need the Flywheel lock as well!

[5l32v4c]

Don't take any chances with timing belts. It's not just mileage but age that needs to be considered. Careful not to get sucked down a "while I'm in there I might as well..." rabbit hole like I did.

[Jagawar]

Yea I am already in a rabbit hole with this car. Deeper and deeper..

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Jagawar

I want to give my belt an inspection is there any way to do this without tearing the whole thing apart? I can see the belt through the hole in the top of the cover but that is all . "getting deeper into the forest"

It would help if you list more info on your car in the signature area. Model, Mileage, manual, auto, etc.

[jim devine]

This is the timing belt / water pump procedure.
Depending on the year of your car, some things may not have to be undone/ taken off to do it.

Timing Belt and Water Pump Procedure w/pics

[Sapientoni]

You will also need to rebuild the hydraulic tensioner. I strongly suggest changing the brass "signal link" to a soldered wire ring connector if that hasn't already been done. The brass part will "look good" but if it fatigue breaks at a bend, it will spin around on the pivot and machine the timing belt down until it snaps. You don't wanna know how I know this! If you make the wire piece, and it fails, it would just bend away when hit by the belt and do no damage. I solder the wire ring connector for added dependability.

[Jagawar]

thanks so much for the step by step instructions Just what I needrd Grateful..

[RedS4]

No special tools are required

[stepson]

Originally Posted by RedS4

No special tools are required

Red, I'm gonna have to disagree with you.

Flywheel lock is a special tool. TB tensioning tool (either Kempf tool or Porsche tool) is special. Getting the crank bolt off without either a 3/4" drive breaker bar/ratchet or at least an extra long 1/2" breaker bar can be extremely challenging. Putting the crank bolt back on without a large torque wrench to torque it on is necessary. Inch/pounds torque wrench for the waterpump bolts.

Those are just the ones I thought of in the time it took me to type it.

Then again, once you've done one TB job and those tools are already in your tool chest, I guess they aren't all that special, are they?

[RedS4]

I've done it three times without
a belt tension tool
a flywheel lock,
a large torque wrench
an inch-pound torque wrench

and with an 18 inch, 1/2 inch drive breaker bar

[Jagawar]

I have all the tools.. Been working on cars over 50 yrs..

[harborman]

Originally Posted by stepson

Red, I'm gonna have to disagree with you.

Flywheel lock is a special tool. TB tensioning tool (either Kempf tool or Porsche tool) is special. Getting the crank bolt off without either a 3/4" drive breaker bar/ratchet or at least an extra long 1/2" breaker bar can be extremely challenging. Putting the crank bolt back on without a large torque wrench to torque it on is necessary. Inch/pounds torque wrench for the waterpump bolts.

Those are just the ones I thought of in the time it took me to type it.

Then again, once you've done one TB job and those tools are already in your tool chest, I guess they aren't all that special, are they?

You need the tools to do it right, especially the belt tension gauge. I only did the job one time, but it worked fine. I also checked the belt tension after 15K miles. Anyway the tools are not that expensive.

[RedS4]

Maybe your definition of doing it right involves special tools.

I did it right without any.

In the mid 80's the small local Porsche dealer was replacing 928 belts weekly. In those days, I could walk straight into the shop without being questioned. The tension tool was $400 then. The mechanic told me he didn't use his tension tool and he showed me how to check tension with one's thumb and forefinger.

Ahhh. I see the "Jay Kempf Tool" now and it is a reasonable $60. The OEM tool had a scale of some sort whereas that home-made looking tool uses a different principle of operation. Easy to use, or misuse, in that respect.

Either way, if one understands a little about belt tension and the thumb and forefinger methodology, they are probably equally accurate. Belt-tension has to have a substantial range, i.e. it can not be that critical because otherwise operating conditions and normal wear and tear would change the tension enough to cause frequent premature failure.

Of course you all know that the most important thing is to have the cams properly timed and the crank in the proper position before adjusting the tension!!

...AND measured at the proper location only.

[Jagawar]

I have the belt tensioner and the flywheel lock.. as well as a inch lb torque wrench, and one big assed breaker bar

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Jagawar

I have the belt tensioner and the flywheel lock.. as well as a inch lb torque wrench, and one big assed breaker bar

That crank bolt is on there pretty good as I remember. My torc wrench only went to 150 ft lbs so when I reinstalled the bolt I had to rent a bigger wrench. The procedure listed in a few texts back was a very good guide to follow. The tensioner tool works fine and worth a few $$. As the other man said he did it without special tools, but mentioned he had experience in a shop. Follow those directions to the T and you should have no problem. Just take your time and follow those instructions. If some question arises, just post the question here and someone usually will help you.

[RedS4]

Originally Posted by harborman

That crank bolt is on there pretty good as I remember. My torc wrench only went to 150 ft lbs so when I reinstalled the bolt I had to rent a bigger wrench. ...

Instead renting a torque wrench you can
a) Stand on the end of a one-foot long ratchet (assuming you weight 150 lbs) or
b) Pull up on an 18" breaker bar with all your force (assuming you are less than 70 years old)

You aren't gonna strip that bolt in either case.