1986 32V - no start condition

cleavster · 03-18-2016, 06:14 PM

Hi Folks,

I'm a newbie when it comes to these fantastic cars and I'm afraid I'm hit with a no start condition. When I started the car two weeks ago, I noticed that the car started to run rich from the smoke coming out from the back. Since I have not driven her for sometime I just thought that she needed to be taken out. It was raining so I decided against it. Last weekend, when I started her, the car would start and it will not remain on idle and "dies". There was white smoke in the back. I tried several times but to no avail.

Today, I tried again and it's doing the same thing. I thought that I flooded the car so I floored the gas pedal and the car started and revved up but as soon as I let go, the car died again. The car is an early 86 model. I would love to get my car running again soon so any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

aluminum · 03-18-2016, 09:04 PM

Humm
is a standard procedure to Check for whats wrong however it's Complicated .
Things like Fuel / Spark / Electrical Grounds / Circuit Panel / ( Relays Fuse's )
You almost need to be a Mechanic to provide information to get Guidance.
From you very limited Information I Can only ask
HOW LONG HAS IT BEEN SITTING ?

Gas ( Ethanol ) go's Bad Faster then you think , you may need to remove and clean the Tank and flush all Lines .

When Motors don't start and run right they can produce Smoke sometimes just from not running right . Then again Smoke can be a completely different indication .
Give your Location and perhaps a Member can be of assistance or search a 928 expert in your Area .
Other Options would be to provide better information about the Car
Mechanical History and the like

Arizona_928 · 03-18-2016, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleavster

I thought that I flooded the car so I floored the gas pedal and the car started and revved up but as soon as I let go, the car died again.

Bro you didn't give it enough choke!
FPR, TPS would be my guess, unless you throw on a new Holley.

harborman · harborman's Garage

The white smoke most probably is from flooding out. My 86 will sometimes flood and I have to keep the peddle down, crank it and keep it running until it clears out. Also, put some Techron in the tank, it helped getting mine to run better.

cleavster · 03-19-2016, 03:40 PM

The car has been sitting for no less than 6 months. The previous owner had a battery cutoff switch installed and when I checked the battery, the charge is below 12V. I'm currently recharging and it may take a while.....

Some of the posts mentioned a possible failed temp sensor II. Where is this sensor located? Is it the one with the blue plug to the right of the yellow oil cap? I read that you can perform resistance tests on this part. Now, I just want to be clear if the test requires the part to be off or on the car.

For the FPR, I need to double check and I think it was replaced based upon the POs car history.

harborman · harborman's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleavster

The car has been sitting for no less than 6 months. The previous owner had a battery cutoff switch installed and when I checked the battery, the charge is below 12V. I'm currently recharging and it may take a while.....

Some of the posts mentioned a possible failed temp sensor II. Where is this sensor located? Is it the one with the blue plug to the right of the yellow oil cap? I read that you can perform resistance tests on this part. Now, I just want to be clear if the test requires the part to be off or on the car.

For the FPR, I need to double check and I think it was replaced based upon the POs car history.

The tempII sensor is located on the front of the motor. The test does not require it to be removed for testing. A resistance test is made on it.

cleavster · 03-20-2016, 08:34 AM

Correction....the temp II sensor is located to the left of the yellow oil cap in front of the motor. Is this correct? I just want to make sure I'm testing the correct sensor.

aluminum · 03-20-2016, 06:17 PM

6 Months is long enough to ruin the Fuel ( Ethanol )
without Fuel Stabilizer well mixed in before storage

I would dump / Pump out all the Fuel > Power the Pump and Pump it out .
If Its Smelly and Dirty / Gunk pull tank and Clean it all out .

with fresh fuel in tank should Pump out all the Lines to Motor until runs Clean.

Mrmerlin · 03-20-2016, 06:42 PM

what are you charging the battery with?
if your using the battery tender,
then you need a battery charger that will charge at 6 amps charge for atleast 3 hours

cleavster · 03-22-2016, 04:10 PM

Finally, the battery has been charged and checked voltage. All good. I tried to start the car and it did the same thing...it fired up, died, and lots of smoke, just like last time. I used Techron and it did not make a difference. Before I evacuate the fuel, how do i test the fuel pump circuit?

From my research, I have an LH ECU type system. Is this correct for an early 86 model? If so, how do I energize the fuel pump and check the fuel pump relay? Is there a cold start valve/circuit on this car? Thanks!

The Deputy · The Deputy's Garage

I'll second the fuel draining idea, since you say the battery is good. (Edit: But, you really don't know if the battery is any good...unless you load test it. You can charge a battery and have 12.4 volts afterwards...but it's what it does while cranking that really tells the story of its worth)

Fuel condition...

Plus, you don't know the condition of the gas when it went in the car...you might have got a bad tank of fuel and now it is showing up, with the added delay in using it up. I went to fuel class a few months ago...and they said...the shelf-life of unstabilized fuel was approximately two or three months...max.

Filled my 84 up at a out of the way gas station...and it ran exactly like yours until that tank was gone. Luckily, I put two and two together...before I went hog-wild-crazy searching out a problem that wasn't really there.

I've noticed three things that seem to make my car run rough, low battery voltage, poor fuel quality and weak relays or fuse contacts.

Good luck,

Brian.

harborman · harborman's Garage

Have you pulled a spark plug to see condition? Have relays and fuses been all cleaned? Ground points? There is also a check valve on the fuel pump.

cleavster · 09:12 PM

I did a relay test on the fuel pump relay with a known working relay and still no start. I jumped pins 30 and 87 and I could hear the fuel pump run. I went ahead and pulled one of the spark plugs and it was full of carbon deposit and smells gas. So, basically it is fouled and need to be replaced.

I have not replaced the spark plugs on this car and it seems tight. I removed the air plastic tubes located on and the top cover of the air filter. Now, do you need to remove the two air intakes with the Porsche V8 4C 32V (i do not know what this is called) so I can access the plugs to be replaced.

Also, would anyone know where this black vacuum tube is connected? One end is connected to the black vacuum valve (I think) and the other one was connected to nowhere....

harborman · harborman's Garage

Yes, you need to remove the air intakes going to the filter box to access the plugs. They remove quite easily. Are you leaking vacuum at that disconnected tube?

JhwShark · JhwShark's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleavster

Also, would anyone know where this black vacuum tube is connected? One end is connected to the black vacuum valve (I think) and the other one was connected to nowhere....

That hose, if the large balck one (IIRC), goes to a connection on the bottom of the black Air Intake fillter housing.

Mrmerlin · 03-29-2016, 02:34 PM

if its the thin tube your pointing at, thats a drain for the coolant bottle follow it to the other end it should be attached to the cap housing

cleavster · 09:01 PM

The thin black tubing was connected to a thermo switch valve under the black plastic air filter housing.

So far, I have checked for spark and it was present on both sides. I changed the spark plugs since they were fouled. I had to remove the intake plenums on both sides so I can have a better access to the plugs. There was a little bit of fuel/oil present in the intake plenums. Is this normal? Checked resistance on the Temp ii sensor and it was in the correct range.

When I started the car, same condition - tries to start, idles erratically, and then dies with unburned fuel smoke smell. So I rechecked for spark and it was present on #1 and #5. When I forgot to place the oil breather hose back on the driver side intake plenum and started it, the car idled erratically and kept running but blowing a lot of unburned fuel smoke smell. When I installed back the oil breather hose, the car would not hold idle and dies. Does anyone know why this is the case? Next steps....