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Quote:
Originally Posted by rufrob View Post
Without the bell housing the TC spun easily. With the bell housing it was tough to turn by hand. Is that normal?
I believe it should turn freely. Something is not right.
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:05 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #141 (permalink)
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I guess I got to do it again. Why did Benz make this so hard. When I did the rear main seal on my E430 I simply pushed the tc back in. Thanks for the guidance.



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Old 07-30-2018, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rufrob View Post
I guess I got to do it again. Why did Benz make this so hard. When I did the rear main seal on my E430 I simply pushed the tc back in. Thanks for the guidance.
If it was easy, monkeys could do it.
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Black Metallic 1984 Euro S 5 speed (The Schwartz)
Old 07-30-2018, 03:26 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #143 (permalink)
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Pulled the tranny again. By the time I stood it up it was turning by hand. The little atf in the reservoir could be seen moving when I spun the tc so I guess it self healed. Now to put it back together. But since Iíve been spending every spare minute on it for the last 3 months I think i should give the wife some attention too this weekend.


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Old 08-02-2018, 05:09 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #144 (permalink)
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I actually cried when I went to install the kickdown cable. The seller of the used tranny simply cut the cable leaving the cap in place. When I removed the cap the black plastic connector fell into the tranny. The tranny was already up and bolted in along with most of the rear suspension. After watching a few YouTube videos on the 722.3 I decided to drop the valve body and conductor plate and there it was. Glad I didnít try to remove the tranny and roll it. Whether permitting she should be drivable this weekend. Keeping my fingers cross.


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Old 08-09-2018, 12:23 AM
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She moved!! Now for lots of cleaning and adjustments.


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Old 08-12-2018, 04:44 AM
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Great job!
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Old 08-14-2018, 10:45 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #147 (permalink)
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Big day today.
. Proper new plugs and she fires up right away. Next, wires.
Drove it about 500m from my parking spot to my house.
Today I did: steering rack boots, front brake pads, front steel braided brake hoses, left front strut, that was fun, lots of wire brushing.
The shifter cable is kinked at the guide tube. Research says new cable, but there has got to be a way to repair it. Any ideas?

Cheers,


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Old 08-18-2018, 04:02 AM
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This is the oil. I flushed the coolant system but there is still oil in it. The oil looks like olive oil. Guess head gasket?


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Old 08-19-2018, 04:19 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #149 (permalink)
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Guess itís the dreaded thrust bearing failure. Now I know what Iím dealing with I have 2 options. check the spare motor oil for metal specs and check the crank movement. If all good Iíll do the head gasket, valve seals and possibly trust bearings on the crank. Clean and drop it in. Or 2 pull the bad engine see if the the block is damaged. If itís not damaged replace the main bearings, and head gaskets.


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Old 08-20-2018, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rufrob View Post
Guess it’s the dreaded thrust bearing failure. Now I know what I’m dealing with I have 2 options. check the spare motor oil for metal specs and check the crank movement. If all good I’ll do the head gasket, valve seals and possibly trust bearings on the crank. Clean and drop it in. Or 2 pull the bad engine see if the the block is damaged. If it’s not damaged replace the main bearings, and head gaskets.


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What has sent you from possible head gasket issues to Thrust Bearing Failure?
What are your crank movement measurements?

Are you thinking that you are getting coolant into your oil turning it green? Coolant pressure is minimal compared to oil pressure. It would be much more likely that oil would be in your coolant and you would have the "milkshake" looking stuff.
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Last edited by stepson; 08-20-2018 at 08:54 PM.. Reason: add
Old 08-20-2018, 08:51 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #151 (permalink)
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Is it possible that your brand new radiator oil cooler has failed?

Can you reroute your oil cooler lines to bypass that to test it?
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Grand Prix White 1994 GTS AT (The GTS)
Cobalt Blue 1989 S4 AT (The Blue Car)
Indishrot 1984 Euro S AT (The Stepson)
Black Metallic 1984 Euro S 5 speed (The Schwartz)
Old 08-20-2018, 08:56 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #152 (permalink)
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Itís the bits of metal in the oil. Stalling when hot and hard restart when hot.
What did I expect from a $700 car.


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Old 08-20-2018, 09:33 PM
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Well darn. Will you take measurements?
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Old 08-21-2018, 11:09 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #154 (permalink)
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Yup. Iíll get a dial gauge and check the spare motor this weekend. Iíll drain the oil, check for particles. Iíll need an engine stand and crane. I really donít want to do this job from the bottom again. Want to do this job at home rather than my gravel parking area. Just hope my neighbors donít complain about the crazy gaijin doing dirty things at home. I do have an endoscope so Iíll look inside both motors oil drain holes.


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Old 08-21-2018, 01:32 PM
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i really don't see the metal in that drop of coolant/oil - usually it looks like glitter makeup
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:49 PM
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That was the second oil change. Iíll check end play. Would be great if it were not the TBF. What else might cause the binding when hot?


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Old 08-21-2018, 05:00 PM
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might it be something tied to the problem you had with the converter binding - you could try removing the coupling from the engine to the torque tube shaft and see if it behaves the same - it seems to me you have 2 separate issues - coolant in oil and the overheating/metal in oil - i don't believe thrust bearing failure will cause coolant in the oil - you might be putting pressure on the rear of the crankshaft due to the converter being too far forward and starting the thrust bearing failure - what is the crankshaft end play in the installed engine?
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Old 08-22-2018, 12:35 PM
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You make some good points. I could not notice any end play when I first got the engine before starting the project and the engine turned easily before installing the driveline. It skipped a few teeth when the tbelt wasnít tensioned properly. Then I would notice I tight spot. First oil change was horrible. After the engine ran after the oil/ coolant mix I changed the oil and saw the black goop and metal filings. Granted this oil sample doesnít have metal in it. This oil sample came from the filter not the pan.
As for the transmission. I pulled it again and definitely seated the TC because... itís pumping and changes gears. I didnít check the preload at the flexplate. I donít know how to post videos here but I do have a video of the TC turning with good resistance. Bought a dial gauge and will check it may be this weekend. Itís the end of summer and want to relax. Plus I need to repair the front bumper on my e430.
Thanks for the advice.
The plan now is to:
Check the end play on both engines.
Due to the engine ages I should do head gaskets and valve seals so Iíll order those money permitting. I was surprised how cheap engine stands are here. The engine hoists on the other hand are pricey but I can borrow one.


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Old 08-22-2018, 02:40 PM
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Honerboys you were right. The flex plate was loaded. I loosened the pinch bolt and slid the flywheel about 0.3mm back. I measured with my micrometer. It definitely spins better, didnít stall and could restart when hot. But I think itís FUBR.

It just doesnít sound healthy.
I changed the oil again with cheap 10w30 to flush it. Still not getting any oil pressure.


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Old 08-24-2018, 07:17 PM
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