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Made a make shift wash area in the garage to degrease the underside and engine compartment. This was a miserable mess. Not only did I get grease on me from head to toe, my make shift plastic dam leaked and made a mess. All in all got everything pretty clean, still need to detail more before I apply undercoating.






Last edited by Blagave; 09-05-2017 at 06:36 AM..
Old 09-04-2017, 05:27 PM
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Installed new bushings in the front a-arms. There's no way to take apart and install new bushings without hydraulic press. I have approx. $450 in parts to rebuild and another 3 plus hours. I see where 928 international has complete rebuild exchange arms at $295 a piece. Worth the extra $150 if you haven't done something like this rebuild.




Last edited by Blagave; 09-05-2017 at 07:26 PM..
Old 09-05-2017, 07:23 PM
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Finished the rebuild on the steering rack. I spoke with Travis at Rennbay and he informed that the blue teflon washer/seal replaces both the o'ring and white teflon washer/seal. Installing the boots turns out to be one of the more challenging parts of the re-build.




Old 09-06-2017, 06:09 PM
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wow your into it
I have a few suggestions, one you will be well served to get a rebuilt rack,
its a good exercise to go through one BUT if its not perfect its a lot of time spent till a good rack is in place.
use either 928INTL or Roger at 928sRus I have had good luck with either of these rebuilds.
You mention that your going to apply undercoating?
If this means what I think it means you should understand the 928m has one of the best chassis protection coatings applied ,
Since you have the car cleaned your essentially finished with the undercoating,
applying anything over the original coating will ruin it unless your using some sort of cosmoline.
NOTE you dont need to apply any undercoating to an already undercoated chassis.
If that lizard skin is for noise reduction then i would suggest to use it on the inside of the chassis and inside the doors.
Goodluck with your project
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Last edited by Mrmerlin; 09-06-2017 at 09:31 PM..
Old 09-06-2017, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
wow your into it
I have a few suggestions, one you will be well served to get a rebuilt rack,
its a good exercise to go through one BUT if its not perfect its a lot of time spent till a good rack is in place.
use either 928INTL or Roger at 928sRus I have had good luck with either of these rebuilds.
You mention that your going to apply undercoating?
If this means what I think it means you should understand the 928m has one of the best chassis protection coatings applied ,
Since you have the car cleaned your essentially finished with the undercoating,
applying anything over the original coating will ruin it unless your using some sort of cosmoline.
NOTE you dont need to apply any undercoating to an already undercoated chassis.
If that lizard skin is for noise reduction then i would suggest to use it on the inside of the chassis and inside the doors.
Goodluck with your project
Thanks for the info. I noticed the under coating is in very good shape after cleaning and was debating on spraying the additional sound proofing and heat barrier coating on the under side. My plan was to do both inside and and out per the product information. You bring up a good point about if the existing under coating and the new product is compatible. The instructions says to apply over primed material. I have seen videos of the product being sprayed over existing material. I need to call and ask.

As far as the power steering rack re-build goes. I have read a few threads on the re-builds and there really isn't much to it when replacing "just" the seals. I think the guys in the past who tried to source there own seals had some failures, but now that there is a replacement kit, I haven't read anything bad other than the blue Teflon seal. I hope everything works out for my re-build, because it would be sad and a pain to pull it off a finished car and have to have redone..
Old 09-07-2017, 06:11 AM
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Finally finished up the front top a-arms. Instructions and other threads on rebuild make new parts install simple. The cross thread ball joint I cut out off ended up being a costly part. Who would think you couldn't just buy the ball portion. I bought a arm off eBay and dumb luck would have it that the arm had some unusual rebulid and had a pressed in ball joint from another car.....wouldn't use it. Beware of any arms that have expoxy filled all the way flush to the top of the ball joint cap. I bought another arm with stock ball joint and used the ball. I bit costly for a $10 part.
I also installed the lower front a-arm ball joints.....very simple, but will need to get the adjustment done by a shop.







Old 09-08-2017, 06:55 PM
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I was cleaning the underside to prep for additional coating. Surprisingly, you would think this Southern California car was just a few years old, everything looks fantastic, accept for a little cancer in the battery box. I decide to cut the bottom pan out and make a new stronger one.











Last edited by Blagave; 09-09-2017 at 05:04 PM..
Old 09-09-2017, 04:43 PM
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Sprayed two coats of the lizard skin sound insulation on firewall. Needs to dry 24 hours and then I will spray the heat insulation. I also added another layer of rubberized undercoating protection to underside.



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Old 09-09-2017, 04:48 PM
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:16 AM
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Sprayed two coats of the heat insulation coating on firewall. I really like the lizard skin product, it is easy to apply and you can get into hard to reach areas. i will finish the firewall with a heat/sound mat as well. Started removing the interior sound proofing, once I get things nice and clean, I will spray both sound and heat insulation.



Old 09-10-2017, 04:34 PM
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Removed the sun roof and started to see what is involved to delete the sun roof. I see why some people remove the entire roof and install a non sunroof roof panel. I was able to find the anon sunroof interior headliner, so now just need to figure out my next step.


Old 09-10-2017, 04:39 PM
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Removed the cruise control unit and the mileage counter. Won't need with the new LS engine.


Old 09-10-2017, 04:45 PM
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Cut out the majority of the sun roof. I found a non sun roof headliner local and should have it tomorrow. Once I have that, I can figure out what I need to finish up removing. I used cut off wheel, plasma cutter and mini air saw in order to remove. The process is not hard, just time consuming making sure not to cut something you shouldn't. I am trying to source a roof panel and have a few leads, I think finding the roof and cutting piece out and welding in is still easier than removing the entire roof panel and replacing with non sun roof panel.





Old 09-12-2017, 06:29 PM
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Under coatings and wheel wells are done.



Old 09-12-2017, 06:48 PM
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Received the headliner and as expected I needed to trim more of the sun roof frame. After I got everything trimmed, the headliner went right in and all the clip mounts are the same, which is a relief. I will keep my eyes open for a roof piece and if I can't get one, I will make my own, prefer to find one.










Last edited by Blagave; 09-13-2017 at 07:31 PM..
Old 09-13-2017, 05:03 PM
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How To Manual -

Hey Blagave - I've read through and followed a few other major projects but have never seen the extent of the detailed work you are documenting. Once you have this Porsche up on it's feet and running properly - you should sell an instruction book Titled : "928 LS Conversion - Not For the Faint of Heart".

Great Information - Michael
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Last edited by JK McDonald; 09-13-2017 at 05:47 PM..
Old 09-13-2017, 05:43 PM
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Thanks Michael for the kind words. A few years back I decided to build a Rothmans rally tribute car for fun and Paul with Braid wheels persuaded me into starting a build thread, which I did Building a working rally tribute car
The thread was a great way to document the build and to share with others, plus I learned from others along the way.
I look forward to the process on this build.

Last edited by Blagave; 09-13-2017 at 07:32 PM..
Old 09-13-2017, 06:11 PM
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Here is what I have purchased to remove the adhesive in the interior. I started with acetone which didn't do much. I moved onto a brake cleaner which was worst. I tried goof off, which was so so, then adhesive remover from Home depot which was better, but made gooey balls. I moved onto the mineral oil, which worked well with the scraper. I found the alcohol the best in the final removal. Bottom line is removing the adhesive is absoultely the worst job possible and very time consuming. I still have several hours to go before I am ready to spray sound & heat proofing.



Old 09-14-2017, 05:57 PM
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You aren't messing about!

Subscribing.

Not sure what part of SoCal you are in but if you need an extra pair of hands at some point don't be shy.
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
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You aren't messing about!

Subscribing.

Not sure what part of SoCal you are in but if you need an extra pair of hands at some point don't be shy.
Thanks for the offer tdskip........I will certainly keep your offer in mind. I live off the 101 in Westlake.
Old 09-15-2017, 07:03 AM
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