Help Needed: Picture of hood release for Stock Turbo

[kdjones2000]

So my hood release cable slipped/broke on me this weekend, and I would like to be able to get into my engine again

The factory manual is really no help at all with this:



and I got under my car and I can't even see the damned thing, or come up with an idea on how to access the release latch.

My car is completely stock, with the original AFM and airbox.

So my request is for anyone who has a similar setup to take a couple of higher resolution pics of the area from the top/side of the thing. I especially want to know where it is in relation to the airbox. I can see the return spring for it, but that's it.

Anyone??

About the only thing I can come up with so far is to try to loosen up the airbox and push it up enough to be able to see the latch, then come up with a tool/plan, or to raise the headlights and try to go in from the passenger's side with a looong screwdriver, but right now I can't even see where to aim it.

Any help is appreciated!

Cheers,

Keith

[aj951]

Here are a couple of pics. I took a look at mine to see if there was a good path to get to the spring on the release. I hate to tell you but it looked damn near impossible with the radiator fans in the way. One possible way, if the cable isn't broken, is to try and grab the cable near the driver side headlight bar from underneath the car and pull hard.

Good Luck!

A.J.

[kdjones2000]

Thanks, AJ. Can you tell me if the return spring underneath the latch is in front of or behind the cable attach point? I am thinking that the spring is in front of the mechanism. If so, I might have a path.

Also if you could, please take a picture from the headlight motor over toward the latch. I am trying to determine if there is any hope of getting into it from that approach.

Keith

[Techno Duck]

While your trying to unlatch it from below, have someone pushing down on the hood right above the latch, it will make things easier. Its going to be a nightmare to do this on a turbo that still has the factory airbox. But you need to get a very long flat head screw driver to pry /push the rectangular square that the cable goes through (portion with the set screw) towards the drivers side of the car. The piece im talking to has the arrow pointing at it in the picture you posted from the factory manual.

[kdjones2000]

Nightmare is the correct word.....

That is exactly what I am planning (Push on hood, lever that part over), but it looks like I am going to need a very long, stiff bar with some offset to it at the top to be able to do it.

The pictures help a lot, thanks!

Will keep you guys posted, but this one is going to take a while.

Keith

[kdjones2000]

Jon, if you were to run a flat screwdriver up from underneath, does it make more sense to have it go BEHIND the headlight bar, or IN FRONT of it to get at the opening mechanism?

Thanks in advance,

Keith

[Techno Duck]

Behind the headlight bar, meaning more towards the rear of the car. As i remember there is not much space between the headlight bar and the fan shroud. BTW, i did this on a n/a which is far easier.

Maybe consider going with a MAF system... you can ditch the airbox and make life easier if this ever happens again. Thats one way to justify the expense! Im very good at that.. .

[kdjones2000]

Thanks Jon

I just found this picture on Rennlist - says what you are saying, even though it's an NA.



I think I know what needs to be done, now just need to fabricate the stupid tool....

So this is what my view is now of the same area on a stock turbo:



I was thinking of making a piece of metal bar/plate bent around to go behind the metal water pipe, in front of the airbox, and up high enough to activate the latch. However, things seem to be too tight and convoluted for that to really work.

About the only area of approach I see now is through this opening:



What I need now, however, is a distance measurement from the passenger side of that boss holding the rubber grommet to the latch mechanism. If you can, please let me know.

I am thinking of making a metal rod, kind of like a Sheppard's hook, to get into that space and unlatch things.

Ah, the joys of 944 ownership!!!

Just remember to grease your latch and check the tightness of the cable clamp. You do NOT want to be doing this yourself.

[kdjones2000]

Well, I got it

It turned out that first instincts were correct. I had a couple of pieces of "L" brackets lying around for hanging a garage door opener, so I took one of them and hammered it flat. I then played around with the business end of it so it would clear the water pipe, go up in front of the airbox, and rolled the tip to provide the best chance of actually hitting the release mechanism.

I used the second piece of "L" bracket to reinforce the flattened one, in order to provide more force.

Here is what the tool looks like, in case you ever have to do this:





It took several tries to get the correct length above the water pipe, but in the end I was able to feel for the mechanism, leverage the tool against the fan shroud, and get out from the car enough to bang on the hood and got it open.





It turns out that the cable had simply slipped out of the cable clamp. The end was far enough into the casing that I was not able to push it back out, so I am ordering a new cable and will install that.

Cheers, and thanks for all of the help guys!!

Keith

[aj951]

Awesome job Keith! I think this should make the 944 play of the week. I still can't imagine how you got that tool in between the air box and the latch.

My hood release started giving me trouble but I could bang on the hood to get it to release. My problem was the same as yours but the cable did not come completely out. I tightened the cable in the set screw and I also tied an emergency backup cord on the latch and securely stowed the other end underneath the car just in case the cable finaly broke or slipped completely out.

I'm glad you got it open and thanks for sharing the solution.

A.J.

[nize]

this is great, i recommended it to the pelican wiki.

[rucool]

The hood cable went on my friends 89 S2 a few weeks ago, dont know how he went yet. I have since orderd a new cable for my 951, I think of it as cheap insurance.
Russell

[kdjones2000]

With the air cleaner going through the front area into the nose panel, that one might also lead to a significant challenge in getting open....

Yes, a new cable and lubrication are a really good idea for PM.

[dragon951]

Do you happen to have the measurements of those bends you made? I need to make a simliar tool.

[kdjones2000]

------------------------------------------
........................29"....................... ......| 0.75"
.................................................. ........ ------------------------
.................................................. ................2.75"..................|| .375"

I also had to remove the power steering belt to get the room to position the tool and use it.

Good luck

Keith

[kdjones2000]

Repost with non-dead picture links:

Well, I got it

It turned out that first instincts were correct. I had a couple of pieces of "L" brackets lying around for hanging a garage door opener, so I took one of them and hammered it flat. I then played around with the business end of it so it would clear the water pipe, go up in front of the airbox, and rolled the tip to provide the best chance of actually hitting the release mechanism.

I used the second piece of "L" bracket to reinforce the flattened one, in order to provide more force.

Here is what the tool looks like, in case you ever have to do this:





It took several tries to get the correct length above the water pipe, but in the end I was able to feel for the mechanism, leverage the tool against the fan shroud, and get out from the car enough to bang on the hood and got it open.







It turns out that the cable had simply slipped out of the cable clamp. The end was far enough into the casing that I was not able to push it back out, so I am ordering a new cable and will install that.

Cheers, and thanks for all of the help guys!!

Keith

[v2rocket_aka944]

nice work.
i had mine fail many years ago and i had to remove the rad fans from underneath (hard to get the top bolts) and then just reach up with my hand to the latch...fun.