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soxnail's Avatar
 
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Location: Laguna Vista
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The Clutch wars have begin

Well started on my clutch replacement project today..have been procrastinating for a couple of weeks.
Mostly just time and effort, however the speed sensor decided to kamikaze on me and broke when I was trying to twist and lift it from the bell housing.
The reference sensor came out fine but not the speed. I have tried to get to the 2 bracket bolts without success, garbing the broken one with long pliers is not working, I am just warping the magnet without moving the sensor.
First pic shows the sensor right after it broke. The second one shows the result of my efforts to get it out. I even tried to drill a few holes around the magnet in the plastic to see if it dislodges, no joy.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks Sox.




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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-09-2020, 04:54 PM
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In the Fires of Hell.....
 
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Why are you worrying about that at the start? It's much easier to get to the mounting bolts from below with a long extension and a universal joint, after you have removed the exhaust, starter, clutch slave and the other stuff.

You likely have the shield on your sensor, meaning that you have to remove the bracket anyway, before you can remove the bell housing.
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NASA/PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost
1987 924S 944 SPEC racecar - '88 pistons/DME, short 5th
1987 944S - Restored salvage title, ready to live again
I can fix your late 944 Cruise Control module - PM for details
Old 03-09-2020, 05:38 PM
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I was just following the direction and sequence as outlined in the "tech" section of our kind hosts here.....
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-10-2020, 07:09 AM
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I'm not sure if there is anything holding the sensor in other than muck. Maybe after you remove the flywheel, are you going to remove the flywheel, you can just tap the sensor out into the bell-housing???

Thanks
Mike G.
Old 03-10-2020, 07:53 AM
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I am planning on removing the fly wheel to have it checked.
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-10-2020, 08:00 AM
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I personally would follow a different one. These tech notes are based upon a single teardown/repair, and do not cover all variations.

I think I used Kevin Gross' one, if you can find that.
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NASA/PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost
1987 924S 944 SPEC racecar - '88 pistons/DME, short 5th
1987 944S - Restored salvage title, ready to live again
I can fix your late 944 Cruise Control module - PM for details
Old 03-10-2020, 12:16 PM
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wasn't there some issue with the sensor hitting something inside during removal of the bellhousing? i don't recall the details but i thought you had to back the sensor out a little for it to clear something inside.
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Old 03-10-2020, 04:31 PM
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I have done this by dropping the transaxle, but never again. pull the motor, personal preference now.

Quote:
wasn't there some issue with the sensor hitting something inside during removal of the bellhousing?
I encountered this when I did my first clutch replacement. forget which but there is a shim under one of them. I was putting in a new flywheel and was setting the clearance on the TDC trigger pin. almost set if wrong because I did not install the shim. realized the pin would contact the BH. glad I realized that...

almost done rebuilding my 951 motor and got a new clutch disc.

good luck.
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84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
87 924S resurrect and gut and another track car...
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-11-2020, 05:39 AM
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Note:
It is far easier to take out the bolts for the transmission mount if you take the fuel filter first.
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
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Old 03-11-2020, 02:10 PM
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We don't need no stinken transmission jacks...


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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-11-2020, 02:12 PM
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And I thought that I was the only knuckle head that would post funny A$$ $hit like that!!

Mike G.
Old 03-11-2020, 07:43 PM
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Nope us knuckle heads are every where
You should see some of the stuuupid stuff I did doing rear wheel bearing.
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-11-2020, 08:14 PM
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Are you going to show a before and after cleaning of the transaxle next?

Mike G.
Old 03-13-2020, 07:50 AM
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Yup...though my wife like to see a cleaning of the grease monkey instead
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-13-2020, 08:04 AM
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Got it all out, can't get the flywheel hosing off as it hangs on the broken sensor...
Keith my sensor bracket has socket bolts in it, I can't seem to get to it from above or below, any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-13-2020, 03:26 PM
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so i did remember correctly that the sensor hangs on something and needs to be backed out for removal. it has been many years since i did my clutch, but i recall getting that sensor bolt from the top.
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Old 03-13-2020, 07:06 PM
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Yup now I just need to figure out how to get it or the whole bracket out.....
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-14-2020, 06:49 AM
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Nize, Is this still your current setup and you are still happy with it ?
Thanks Sox.

"update by popular request;
the 930 clutch part number is: 930-116-014-02 and can be ordered right here on pelican for $318 (price on 11/5/2009 $341.25)
(price on 7/6/2010 $366.75) (price updated on 1/2/2014 $402.25)
http://tinyurl.com/930disc

the KEP pressure plate can be ordered directly from Kennedy Engineered Products
you'll have to specify either stage2 pressure plate which is good for 600 ft/lb or their stage1 good for 500 ft/lb
they only have stage 1 and 2, and both are the same price, $550;
http://www.kennedyeng.com

for a complete and proper clutch job, you will also need:
-the throw out bearing part 951-116-082-01 for $190 (price on 11/5/2009 $199) (price on 7/6/2010 $178) (price updated on 1/2/2014 $192)
-cross shaft for release bearing fork 951-116-133-00 for $32 (price on 7/6/2010 $34.25) (price updated on 1/2/2014 $42.25)
-clutch release lever bearing 999-201-213-00 for $10.75 x2 (need two of them) (price on 7/6/2010 $8) (price updated on 1/2/2014 $8.75)

all can be found here;
http://tinyurl.com/5t5kq5

depending on the condition of your clutch release fork, you may or may not need to replace it as well. part number 951-116-085-00 for $368
(price updated on 3/18/2009 $379.75)
(price updated on 11/5/2009 $403.25)
(price updated on 7/6/2010 $405)
(price updated on 1/2/2014 $NLA)"
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-14-2020, 07:33 AM
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I am replacing the RMS, is there any other to do while in there ?
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black with maroon interior
All stock with shimmed WG
Old 03-14-2020, 07:35 AM
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sox: thanks for the reminder, i've updated the price list in the original thread. the clutch fork is still NLA so i'm guessing we'll need to start stocking up on that part if you can find it used, and get a bunch rebuilt by blaszak if he's still around.

yes i'm still happy with my setup but i recommend going with the KEP stage 1 (and not the stage 2) if you're not shooting for over 500 hp. if i had to do it over again i'd go with the stage 1 myself.

the reason to go with the KEP instead of factory is because KEP is billet aluminum so it's much lighter weight (less rotational mass), which means you get a bit more HP just by swapping out that one part, and it can be rebuilt in the future (by replacing the center spring) if necessary, although it will likely outlast the whole car without being rebuilt.

remember to balance the whole assembly before re-installing (any machine shop can do this) or you could end up with a funky vibration. if you're re-using the same flywheel and pressure plate, you could mark the position before disassembly so you can reassemble in the same location and avoid having to re-balance.

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Last edited by nize; 03-14-2020 at 03:55 PM..
Old 03-14-2020, 03:36 PM
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