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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 46
Exhaust Manifold Removal

I am sure a bunch of people on here have done this before so maybe some one could save me a bit of time. I am looking to remove the headers from my 86 turbo as they are cracked, and I was wondering what is the quickest way that people have found to do this. Just from looking at it, it seems I can not pull them from the top as the studs stick out to far to clear, and to pull them out from the bottom means I have to remove the crossover pipe. To remove the crossover pipe it looks like the only way I can get to the nuts that connect it to the turbo is by removing the intake. Is this all correct or am I missing something obvious? This is the first time I have taken my own wrenches to this car and it seems to be I bit more tightly packed in there then my good old 914 so any time saving info would be a big help.


Old 04-15-2003, 10:06 PM
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1.2gees's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Cary NC United States
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I prefer pulling the studs off the head. Look into a stud puller, reduces the work by about 8x... You would need to seperate the headers from the crossover pipe, that's 6 bolts, usually not too much fun. Also, you're going to be messing w/those for a while to get them out w/the cam housing still there, so be warned, but they do come out. Pulling the waterpipe above the headers is not a bad idea. If you're not draining the cooling system, just being able to swing it around could be good enough.

If you don't mind me asking, why are you doing this? In another tread you mention a clutch?
Old 04-15-2003, 11:21 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Kingsport, TN
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Remove the center header first. The 1 and 4 is the tough one. When I did it, I removed the water line as well as the studs. Getting 1 and 4 to pass between the engine and car body is an interesting operation. But it can be done. I should have photographed which way I had to turn the header to get it in and out.
1986 951
2002 SLK32 AMG
1987 328GTS
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Old 04-16-2003, 04:16 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 60
Exhaust header removal on the 951 is never fun. I've done this twice, including about two weeks back. A couple of pointers that may help:

1. Put some wide masking tape on the edges of the shock tower. You will be scrapping the header firmly against them. Better tape than paint!
2. Place a jack under the sump, using a sizeable piece of wood between the oil pan and the jack. Gently lift the engine very slightly. You are looking to gain about a 1/2 inch of additional clearance.
3. Pinch the hoses on either end of the heater pipes. Remove the Metal Heater pipe that goes above Exhaust manifold. If you don't pinch them off, there will be a good deal of coolant on the floor.
4. Unclamp the Power Steering from its mount, and lay it forward.
5. Remove the Heat Shield.
6. Drop the 1-4 pipe towards the back, and as low as possible.
7. Pull the 2-3 pipe up and out of the way.
8. Slide the 1-4 pipe up and forward, picking the bottom up towards the firewall. It won't take any force. It like a puzzle, keep trying different slight different positions. It will come out.

If the motor mounts are collapsed, the work will be far more difficults, as the clearance will be reduced.

Good Luck.

Check out my Header FAQ.
'93 968 Coupe, 42K Black/Black
'86 944 Turbo, 24K miles and holding
'87 924S, Gone!
Old 04-17-2003, 07:06 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta
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I've done this twice as well... and oddly it was easier than i had thought.

This is what i did..

1) remove all header bolts. Some of the nuts came off fine, others the nuts held tight to the bolt and the whole shaft came out. Either way.

2) Remove the flange bolts (I think there were 3 per flange = 6).

The assembly is still pressed tight. So while under the car, I carefully placed a second jack under the engine and slowly lifted the engine (it just slightly stresses the engine mounts). I only needed to displace the engine an inch or two to allow the headers to be loose. At that point they just slid off. They DID scrape the wall a little though so the tape idea is not bad.

They went on pretty much that easy as well. I would let the engine back down inbetween welding the cracks though.
74-1.8 (sold)
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Old 04-17-2003, 11:43 AM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Bloomfield Hills, Michigan
Posts: 11
Why the 951 Headers Crack

The early 951 headers are notorious for cracking. If you do remove them and have them welded, be cretain that the holes and manifold studs line up perfectly. Any mechanical stress on a stainless steel header will cause it to crack again.

A simple way to avoid stressing the header is to enlargen the header mounting holes. (This also makes it easy to align the mounting studs during reassembly.) My headers have never cracked since I opened-up these holes.

Hope this helps.

Old 05-09-2003, 05:49 PM
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