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Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
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AOS seals and replacement
So I did a smoke check straight to the air oil separator and tons of smoke started coming out at the bottom of the AOS. I’m assuming this means the seal is bad. So what has to come off in order for the air oil separator to be removed and replaced on a turbo thanks.
I know the intake manifold will have to come off but after that what else needs to be removed?
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1986 944 Turbo - Guards Red |
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OK for the love of God, the turbo has to come off! Jesus never had to take it off before, but it looks like a royal pain in the ass. So before I go through all that effort, I just want to be clear on how I’m thinking it’s the seal on the AOS.
First of all, I’m not getting any oil leaking on the ground. I was trying to track down a vacuum leak that I couldn’t find anywhere else I simply connected my mineral oil smoke generator to the vac line to the AOS and all of a sudden smoke started pouring out at the bottom of the oil fill tube. But I could not determine exactly where it’s coming from. I’m just assuming that it is coming from a bad seal. I do know there is some sort of leak because I was dripping mineral oil from wherever it was coming out because there was a small puddle on the ground about 2 inch diameter after I was done checking with smoke. |
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Yep, it's a real pita.
I have three 15mm chinesium wrenches that I modified to each get just 1/18 th of a turn of the bolt before switching to the next wrench. Made to be installed before installing the engine in the car, not made to be wrenched on afterwards. |
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Which evil bolt do you speak of, so that I may make offerings to the car gods prior to beginning this self inflicted torture!?
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Thanks!
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In the Fires of Hell.....
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Just take off the exhaust and crossover pipe, oh and then you get the joy of trying to remove that allen head bolt that holds the turbo to the crossmember. Make sure that you are VERY SOLID on that before trying to loosen it, because if you round it, it's almost impossible to get a drill in there to drill the head off.
Some people let the weight of the front of the car rest on their tool to make sure that it doesn't round out. More fun wrenching on 951's!!
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PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost |
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My car is on ramps to lift the front end up. My understanding is I will have to disconnect the steering rack at some point which is easy enough. However when I go to put it back will I be able to do it with the wheels on the ramps? Do the wheels need to be free hanging?
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Ok. Starting to have some anxiety attics at this point. I’ve changed the clutch, pulled the cam housing, and done timing belts and balance belts but this turbo removal has me seriously thinking I may have bit off more than I can chew
So far I’ve pulled the intake (done this many times, so no biggie), and I’m trying to remove the heat shield but though I’ve removed all the bolts I can’t seem to get it out. But once I figure that out it appears there may be other shields I need to remove. Last edited by redcoupe86; 09-03-2023 at 06:40 PM.. |
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The biggest PITA job to replace an O-Ring...
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Dan 86 Guards Red 951 (the best so far) 86 Black 951 (sold 12/31/09 PITA) 86 Guards Red 951 (sold in 7/15/00 (first love) 90 Plymouth Voyager, 2.5 Turbo 5 speed |
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No doubt.
So I finally go the heat shield removed, the turbo water pump out the way and the oils line off. I saw that infamous 6mm Allen head and I figured if I couldn’t get it out this game was over. So I gave it a stab and was able to break it loose with a hardened ball end Allen. But if I switch to a stubby Allen which is the best direction to access it? From above or below. How did y’all do it.? |
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Quote:
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I understand the 3/8 drive and hex socket but where are you connecting the extension?
Trying to understand how this works the hex bolt is more or less on the side of the block above the flange correct? Last edited by redcoupe86; 09-04-2023 at 10:03 AM.. |
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Well. I guess I got lucky. It only took me 5 min to get the 6mm and 13mm out. After the 6mm “broke loose” I just used a ratchet on the ball end Allen and it just came right out. Now getting it back in will prove to be a PIA.
Now on to the next step. |
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Ok. All bolts out but one. It’s the up-pipe bolt that’s has a welded stud. Looks like a pain, but what’s new everything else I’ve done so far it’s been a pain. Just gotta get a game plan.
Last edited by redcoupe86; 09-04-2023 at 05:31 PM.. |
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Finally, turbo out! No on to the AOS seal.
And while I’m at it a turbo rebuild.
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1986 944 Turbo - Guards Red |
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Quote:
what worked for me was to literally use a floor jack to "jack up" the wrench so that some of the weight of the car was on the bolt, then i whacked it with a hammer to break the bolt loose. before all this, i used plenty of PB-blaster to grease up the bolt and let it sit overnight. you do not want to mess this up and round out the allen bolt as it's near impossible to drill out.
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'89 turbo-s (2.7, wolf3d ems, garrett dbb turbo, tial 46mm, etc. fast!) |
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Quote:
![]() https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-944-turbo-turbo-s/346595-turbo-upgrade-pauer-tuning.html
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'89 turbo-s (2.7, wolf3d ems, garrett dbb turbo, tial 46mm, etc. fast!) Last edited by nize; 09-05-2023 at 10:48 PM.. |
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I’m not going for any upgrade, just a nicely rebuilt OEM unit. I do know that I never want to have to remove the thing again!!!
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1986 944 Turbo - Guards Red |
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Ok,rebuilt turbo from Evergreen is on. Now I just need a couple of washers for the oil line (dropped the originals down the black hole somewhere!). And attach the new oil feed line on top. Then the intake and fingers crossed we’re running again. One thing is for sure this engine was never meant to be serviced with it in the car for this stuff!
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