Rear Wheel Bearings

[soxnail]

*edit 10/31/2024 by nize as requested by the original author soxnail*
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*a direct link to the complete write up is here:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-944-turbo-turbo-s/337037-rear-wheel-bearings-3.html
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Well its that time, I have to replace the rear wheel bearings. I have never done these before, but I don't want to go to the Porsche shop. So far the wiser and more experienced people on this board what am I looking at.. I know that getting the big nut off and pulling the bearing is the main thing any help hints and pitfalls info would be welcome .
tia Sox

[nynor]

check out arnnworx.com. bruce has some tools specifically for this job. he also has a complete write up.

[nynor]

http://arnnworx.com/RearBearings.htm

[soxnail]

Thanks Nynor for the quick reply. will check it out.
Sox

[soxnail]

Well I did get the tool from arnnworx, thanks Nynor. I just got to working on the bearings today (stuff came up).
Any way broke an 1/2 inch breaker bar no kidding ! see pic. So will take it to a tire shop that has bigger tools..
Sox

[nynor]

holy cow!

i see you also had the special P-TEE tool on hand.

[soxnail]

Yup cant do without the pee-tee tool
Cant find a shop that will loosen up the axel nuts for me, all say its a liability problem will try an "independent " shop tomorrow.
Sox

[nynor]

are you planning on driving it after loosening them?!?

i'd go to sears and buy a 3/4" breaker bar and socket...

[soxnail]

I was going to get them to loosen it and then just tighten it to 150 or 200, and drive home very carefully. Just bought a $28 socket and it is 1/2 inch drive. I would think that it would be strong enough. Just need a better breaker bar

[nynor]

i got a craftsman breaker bar. its pretty stout.

[soxnail]

Thanks...I have one its 18 inches long so...
to get about 700 ft/lbs with 18 inches I figure I need 466 lbs of force on it. The first one was a pep boy one and it failed when I tried to lift it up. I can lift a lot more( 475 lbs dead lift) than what I can put on it which is my weight (202 lbs).

T=F x D where T is torque in ft/lbs, F is force in lbs and D is the distance from the torque application point.

rearranging the formula F=T/D
put in the values D= 18 inches or 1.5 ft, T= aprox 700 ft/lbs
we get F=700/1.5 or F=466 lbs
So it should work.
QED
Sox

[nynor]

700lbs? i thought those babies were at approximately 300 ft lbs... don't hurt yourself!

[soxnail]

well that is for new unrusted nuts with age an rust the force needed can be as much as double..
I have already bust some knuckles on the last breaker bar the went kaput. I will be a lot more cautious this time

[soxnail]

Ok time to try some thing else
see pic
Sox

[nynor]

um... wow. that looks dangerous!

who made the wrench? i'd really try a craftsman. failing that, i'd get a 3/4" breaker bar and a socket to fit it.

[soxnail]

that was a craftsman..they gave me my money back. Will get a 3/4 set next and continue to try and not hurt any thing essential

[nynor]

all right then. we really need to meet over beers sometime. anyone that can break two of those... well, i don't know what else to say.

[soxnail]

be fun bring bananas (for the gorilla)
If you are down in Dallas I will definitely be up for the brews.
Sox

[soxnail]

Ok got the silly nuts off..3/4 breaker and 3 ft of bar. Now how do I get the hub off Clark's web site says use a drift and a hammer from the back (arm side). Arnnworx site says use a slide hammer. I cant seem to get either to work I don't want to mess up the hub..any help be appreciated
Tia Sox

[nynor]

maybe pictures of what you have going on would help.