What happened to my power?????

[larry_s]

Ok my cheese head bolt for the camshaft mount came loose and needed to be replaced along with the rotor and mount, i replaced the rotor at the same time it got trashed when the bolt came loose.

I get it all back together and start it up, my car runs rich so i have a little rough cold idle but fine when it warms up.

go to pull out of the drive way and its like i have no power, slugish throttle and no turbo........

So it give the gas peddle a few double taps and that seems to free up the turbo.... but i have to do that all the time to get the turbo to kick in and then it only kicks in at about 4000 rpms.....

before the camshaft rotor mount came loose it ran fine now its like 1000-3000 is a real dog and then i gotta double tap the gas to get the turbo to spool up... other wise it just holds at 1.1 bar.......

i took off the battery to let the computer rest all that did is give me a nicer idle...

and after you shut her down she is alittle hard to start up....rich

worse part is, that a audi A6 2.7 turbo thought he could run with me.......


Any ideas

[1.2gees]

It sounds like you got the ignition timing a bit too retarded. Is the rotor loose on the shaft?

Possible that the ignition wires were mixed up during installation or some are grounding?
Ahmet

[larry_s]

well i used blue locktite on the rotor to the shaft and on all the nuts and bolts (per porsche dealer, and posts), i also waited 24 hours to let it cure (didnt have to just not enough time to finish job)

as for the plugs i marked all of them 1-4 on the cap before removal and placed them back in the same order.....

would it run right (Missing) if the wires where wrong, it is a smoth idle at 800 rpm...... prior to this it was at 1100-1200 warm rpm.....kinda odd better idle after i reset the computer......

when the turbo kicks in it pulls hard but not until after 4k and not often

this is killing me having to drive slow ahhhhhhhhhhh

its a porsche turbo not a vw bug.................

[1.2gees]

It's hard to say what else it could be. Sorry it's kind of hard to diagnose with this information.

If the wires were wrong, no it would not idle smoothly.

As for the computer, since the motronic in these cars does not have the ability to "adapt" or "learn" the car, it's likely that the change was more likely to be in your head.
Ahmet

[larry_s]

could there be something in the mass air sensor???? or afm as they call it in porsche land


its funny, most of the time the turbo is not comming on and its really slow acceleration, worse than a non turbo and then boom its there, once in awhile it comes on then cuts off. what about the throttle sensor, could that do something like that??

even if the turbo dosent come on the power picks up noticably after 3500-4000.....

as for the idle it def lowered to 800 warm from 1100 warm

no i noticed that the distibuter cap can be moved right/left a little bit while mounted, that wouldnt do it would it??

????????????

[Lawrence Coppari]

Did you upset any of the vacuum lines while you worked on the distributor? Make sure they are all attached and not broken. Vacuum leaks cause all sorts for maladies in these cars. Vacuum also controls fuel pressure.

Check circular valve near coolant reservoir. If vacuum line is off, no boost. If valve is defective, no boost.

[ae1969]

Originally posted by Lawrence Coppari
Did you upset any of the vacuum lines while you worked on the distributor? Make sure they are all attached and not broken. Vacuum leaks cause all sorts for maladies in these cars. Vacuum also controls fuel pressure.

Check circular valve near coolant reservoir. If vacuum line is off, no boost. If valve is defective, no boost.

What he said.

Also look for an intake leak as well...... rubber boot (cracks)..... check that there are no cracks on the intercooler hoses as well.

Look for splits and tears........ these cars run horrbly with leaks!!

I would say 90% of your problem is here......... Check and double check.

[larry_s]

ok well i took it to the local porsche wrench and he tested all the air lines and things like that, he said there is nothing wrong with that stuff, then he took it for a ride and said that the power comes on but very late in the power band, he said the timming belt must have jumped a tooth when my camshaft mount came loose. im going to have him fix that because then he can do the adjustment right away to.... i dont have a timming belt tool he does.


hope its it

[ae1969]

Possible..........

Unlikely......... (without other bad things happening) I have seen or heard of only 4 cars that have successfully completed this maneouver.....

but Possible....

You have 2-3 teeth you can skip max.

If he was confident of his diagnosis he would of checked it in less than 5 minutes. Place the engine at TDC look at the marks on the camshaft pulley and the markings at the back on the flywheel.

Line up your timing marks if they are dead on. He is out too lunch.

............boost coming on late is normally a function of bad boost control.

i.e wastegate, cycling valve, or vaccuum hoses

If your marks check out ....take a good look at all of the things that have already been mentioned.

[1.2gees]

I don't believe it.

Don't be ready to spend so much money on a "possibility", if he had diagnosed that to be a problem, that'd be different.

I'm leaning towards vacuum lines at the moment as well...
Ahmet

[larry_s]

ok i will check them all out today before i take it in tomarrow

[larry_s]

1 quicky before i run to work, if i had a 1100-1200 warm idle prior to this happening and now i have a 800 rpm,
could that be the timming being retarded/off causing that....????


just trying to think of anything

and how much should it cost to set the timming if it is off??

[ae1969]

Uhmmm you have better idle now than before.

Vacuum.

Go and check your timing marks ....easy check, and then you can get that idea out of your head. Do you need the info on how to check the marks?

[larry_s]

ok, i retraced my work on the camshaft mount, i did not reconect the vac hose from the bottom of the air filter box.....

hooked it back up and unplugged the battery for a few then turned it back on and it went back to the 1200 rpm i am used to,,,

took it for a ride and the power seemed off still, turbo came on at first but later didnt come on as soon........ or at all


power seems slugish still.....

how do you check the timming belt position again.....

i know i cant set the timming like the old cars... electric egnition in all so something is off....

power just is not there since the new camshaft mount and rotor......

[Lawrence Coppari]

Do you know how to check the circular valve near the reservoir?

[larry_s]

i read about it 1 time and checked mine then but since forgot

[Lawrence Coppari]

Are you going to check it again? It only takes a few minutes. I'm assuming you checked it some time ago and are not sure it is ok now.

Anyway, here is how you test it.

First with it in place, remove the little hose on the nipple - center top. Attach another hose and try to suck or blow through it. If it does not hold vacuum or positive pressure, your diaphragm is bad and you have little hope of having boost.

Remove valve. It has two large openings. Without any vacuum applied to the nipple, you should not be able to blow through it. If you apply vacuum to the nipple, valve opens which lets boost go into compressor inlet.

That's it.

[larry_s]

ok i found out the problem......

its bad when the mechanic call you and tells you to come over to the shop he wants to show you something instead of its all done


anyone know where i can get a new camshaft for a 86 944turbo


just came from the shop and saw that when the camshaft mounting bolt cam loose, ( last guy who replaced the timmiong belt didnt use enough locktit) the camshaft sprocket also got a little play in it, just enough that the keyway and the slot on the camshaft got all F'ed up..... throwing off my timming, loosing power...

damm.. he will do the repair for relativly cheap if i can find the parts. looking for a camshaft, key way and sproket along with cam seal

[Lawrence Coppari]

Sorry to hear that. Most boost problems are simple and require less costly fixes.

You could try www.partsheaven.com for used parts.

[larry_s]

well the wrench likes me and said if i get the parts he will do all the work for $350, sounds good dosent it?

i found a dismantler in GA that will sell me the parts for 150 hope it is good....

risk you take not buying new but porsche wants 1000 just for the camshaft......