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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: god forsaken, MI
Posts: 7
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944 turbo engine ?'s
Hi guys, first time posting. A bit about me, I started playing with British cars with my Dad at about 12 , since then I worked in a shop restoring MG's Jag's, and the like, after that I joined the coast guard and am now a marine and diesel mechanic (MK2 or E-5), though the pay is bad, I have lots of experience turning wrenches (just bigger LOL). I understand fuel injection, turbos, and super chargers. I do not realy grasp the finer details of the engine management, but that's okay, as I want to learn.
About the Car, 1986 951. Stage 2 chips, test pipe, turbo twist wheels, dark meatlic grey, black interior. I purchased it from it's original owner in 2001. 78K on the clock. Blasted around in it for about 2 years, and then things went bad. So, here I sit, with my 951 in pieces. LOL. I, blew the head gasket (indicated by lots of steam, lost compression, and irradic running before hand). I have pulled the engine (through the hood, along with the radiator, after cooler, (want to clean and flush them) and all associated crap. Pulled the clutch and mounted the engine on a stand. Where to go from here? I have a local machine shop, (in michigan 70 miles is local, LOL) that will let me watch as they work on my parts, and they are used to working aluminium. I am getting the impression on the other hand that I might be better off going through a known Porsche shop. So here are my first questions: What is the point of the ringing on heads, will it prevent future failures? I am planning a wide fire head gasket. What is a reasonable price? What should I plan to do while I have her appart, I am planning the head, belts, clutch, and front, rear and pan seal? Since I am not ever planning on jacking up my boost or HP much, I am more interested in handling, what are mods that should be made for relaibility and maint.? Where can I get a set of factory manuals on CD or DVD? Can someone tell me about the belt tensioning tool, is it really needed? What is the best place for cost on quality parts, I don't want to do this again in 5 years. While the engine is out I am having paint resprayed (clear coat is going in big flakes) by a guy who owes me for work I did on his boat. This leaves me an interior to complete after a couple of years. I know this is a bit long winded, but I would appreciate all the help I can get. Any input excepting forget it, torch it, and/or push it in the lake (wife gave me that advise already) would be of the greatest intereste to me. Sorry for asking a bunch of dumb overasked questions. Will |
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Ornery Bastard
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: South Sound
Posts: 2,879
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First of all, which "stage 2" chip? There are a myriad of different manufacturers of chips for the 951.
Also, how much boost were you running? Over 15 PSI and it's no real surprise at all that you blew the HG. As long as she's apart, replace the rod bearings, put a baffle in the oil pan and consider taking some pains to improve the oiling to the rod bearings. The #2 rod bearing is known to starve for oil during extended hard cornering if everything is stock. Might as well have the turbo rebuilt too if you can do that, one of those "while you're in there" kind of things. Regarding the belt tool: I would either purchase the tool or pay someone else to tension and replace the belts. I've seen lots of people do just fine with the Kricket tool or something similar, but I just don't quite trust it. I've lost a timing belt before (on an old Toyota, thankfully) and to me it's worth the extra assurance to know that the proper tool was used. You can get by with the Kricket, and it will probably work fine, I'm just paranoid. Suspension and handling: Personal preference. I'm not the guy to ask since I like my cars a little "loose" (oversteer) and tend not to mind drop-throttle oversteer. Most people like the car a little less twitchy than I do. Regarding the paint: Be careful! The body is fully galvanized and if you go nuts sanding you'll remove all the rust protection. So sanding to bare metal will make the car rust.
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--------- Silver 1998 Volvo S70 T5 <- Daily (Anja) Guards Red 1986 951 <- Seattle car (Gretchen) White 1976 914 2.0 F.I. <- Prodigal car, traded away then brought back again (Lorelei) |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 2,935
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You did not have to pull the engine to change the head gasket.
I have the same car that is essentially used as a track car. Suspension mods include heavier front springs, turbo s sway bar in front, cam tower brace, adjustable sway bar in rear, and a roll cage. Front brakes are ducted. It does well on the track but is a little rough riding on street.
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Lawrence 1986 951 2002 SLK32 AMG 1987 328GTS 2011 528i |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: god forsaken, MI
Posts: 7
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Not sure who made the chips, I was told autothority when I bought it, but not betting on it. Boost is stock or close to it I would think, as no changes have been made to the induction system.
Bearings, okay, I can do those, anything tricky there? I used to use a crush type feeler gauge on small engines, Is this a good process for the 951? I have read all about the #2 bearing, what does one do to improve it? Pan, where does one get baffels done? Or does someone have plans for myself or a machine shop if needed? Turbo rebuild, that is going to have to wait, I may clean it really well, but thats about it, I may regret it in a year or so, but right now money won't allow it. Belts and etc. good enough, I will throw it in a truck and have them adjusted at the Dealership in Lansing, with it out of the engine the most expensive part will be the gas there and back. Machining, my shop needs specs on the whatever I need done, so knowing the head needs cleaned up lets start with that. I have heard to replace all the valve springs, what about guides? What all should I have the machine shop do? I know leave the exhaust alone due to the porcelain, but deck it so it lays down, and do a valve grind and lap? Anyone have good ideas on port and polish, I know one website says do it yourself, is this a good plan? Handling- well first she's gotta run. LOL. I will get to that later. Paint, we had talked about stripping most of the body chemically, that way we would not hurt the protective zinc. Otherwise does someone have suggestions? I am going to keep the color, just put a bit more on the clear coat to make it shinier (sp?). So, esteemed posters, where can I get this stuff as inexpensively as possible,while maintaing quality? Enlisted pay isn't really what I should have started a Porsche restoration on. LOL. Anyone have any of the parts or pieces that I am going to need? I appreciate all the help so far and as soon as I can I will get some pics out there for ya guys to see. Will |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 2,935
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I used a crush type feeler gauge when I did mine 4 years ago. This was my first and only rod bearing job. Must have turned out ok as car is still running well. My baffles were acquired in an exchange program. You supply your pan; they give you another with baffles. Used PowerHaus for this.
For my head/intake, I used another exchange program. Ended up with an extrude honed system with all new valves, springs, and o-ringed head. I probably did not go the least expensive route. Some people cross drill the crank to improve the oiling on #2. Nothing has been done to mine. I never have had a problem with it. Before I added a second oil cooler, my oil pressure would drop during track sessions. I have seen oil pressure drop to just about 3 bars in other 944 cars. The students continued on their merry way oblivious of potential disaster. When mine dropped to 4 bars, I would slow down. With second oil cooler, it does not drop anymore.
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Lawrence 1986 951 2002 SLK32 AMG 1987 328GTS 2011 528i |
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Super Moderator
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will;
email me your post address, and i'll send you a cd with all of the 951 factory manuals in .pdf format. nize2 at msn.com another great online resource is clark's garage at; http://www.clarks-garage.com/
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'89 turbo-s (2.7, wolf3d ems, garrett dbb turbo, tial 46mm, etc. fast!) |
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