Blink Code test
 

Hi guys, I have recently installed an on line blink diagnostics led on my car (DME hack post). Here is my question:
When I test the system by taking of the TPS connector it works fine. I get the 1 blink followed by the 4 blinks code, but when I try to test other faults for example the over or under boost conditions I get no faults. I am testing by taking the hose of the pressure sensor on the KLR and capping of the car side. Then I am placing pressure on the sensor with a pump all the way up to 18psi, the KLR does register it as the factory gauge goes to 2 bar, but no codes with the car rpm raised to 2k and then back down. Also if there is no pressure on the sensor nothing connected to the sensor input the car gauge shows 1 bar (atmospheric pressure) but there are no codes generated. What am I doing wrong??
TIA
S.K

over my head, sox...

Mine too it seems nyor..may be some Porsche guru will read and set me straight

You mean like an OBD1 kind of interface? That's amazing.

Hope it turns out well because that sounds damn useful for all of us that don't know much about "simple" cars...

Its kind of where I am going. I will keep y'all posted..
Again any info on the KLR or its schematics would be welcome.
Sox

try this:

http://www.motronic944.com/

Thanks nynor. I have been looking at that site.
What I really need is a KLR schematic. (my post KLR schematics) failing that I am going to reverse engineer a KLR. I think pozican is going to send me a none working one. Again all info is welcome and greatly appreciated.
Sox

These are the correct codes for the klr ?
1-2 voltage under 10.2 | check alternator, battery, regulator, relays or wiring
2-1 knock sensor | Engine damage, tappets rattle, faulty valve, rod bearing, engine knocks.
2-2 knock sensor | Sensor Installation, plug connection at sensor
2-3 KLR defective | Replace KLR
3-1 boost pressure low or zero | Bad wastegate, turbo or intercooler leaks.
3-2 boost pressure to high | Bad Wastegate, cycling valve, wastegate hose off.
3-3 pressure sensor in KLR defective | Replace KLR
4-1 throttle position sensor or wires | Power wire to TPS, ground contact or connection dirty.
4-2 throttle position sensor or wires | TPS bad, but check wires first.
Sox

thats what i have.

Ok I will try to trouble shoot some more..
thanks

I bet you that the overboost is tied into the TPS position.
Try and do it a quick throttle position to full.....and back down with high pressure.

No need to rev the crap out of it. YOu could probably connect another TPS while the car is running that is not connect to the throttle body......... and FLIP WOT with 18 psi.

That stuff is coded right on the board. SO I think you are in uncharted territories sox.

well if I pull the tps off I also get the double code 3,3 and 4,1 so that part works. Also I tried taking the knock sensor connector off at the sensor no codes. Do I have to actually drive it to get the code or will 1500 Plus rpm set that code
Thanks
Sox

thats what I am thinking...... for over / under boost... it must be based on rpm and tps position

Yup got to go out and drive it then I get the codes..
Thanks
Ps. I am chasing an intermittent boost problem. Just fyi
Any catch you later its a pretty 70 deg day down here.
Sox

what are your intermittent boost problems?

Nynor wrote "what are your intermittent boost problems?"

Self inflicted types..If y'all promise not to laugh I will elucidate
My car is all stock (other then shimmed WG) It gets 11 psi dead on at max boost, but for the last few days it would only get 7 psi, some time it would get 11 some time 7. If I defeated the CV and put it into limp mode I would get 4 psi.
driving me nuts (actually I don't have to be driven its very short walk :) ) Well what it turned out to be after a lot of head scratching was that I had had the Knock sensor off to test the diagnostics. When I put it back on I had over tightened it, instead of 10nms (6.6 fp) it was like 26 fp (I must have had a gorilla moment) So it was telling the car that there was detonation going on which made the klr retard the ignition and limit boost. Any way I finally figured it out that it was not a charge system problem but a spark/boost retard problem. So set the sensor to the right spec and presto 11 psi.
This also got me to get of my butt and implement the knock output electronics which flashes a led for each knock event. so I can see if the car has good gas and all other things in the cylinders are in control.
I will post that update (knock output) in the ongoing saga called DME hack.
Sox

hehehehe

thats funny...

Trust me we have all done that.........

LIke the time I left the ratchet on the crank bolt and started the car.......

i've done the ratchet on the crank trick... luckily, no damage.