Blink Code Tester queston...
 

Pretty soon here I'm going to make a blink code tester... however on the lindsey racing site https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/BLINKCODE.html
it shows a red wire that connects to the plug but doesnt state where it goes...

http://www.lindseyracing.com/pics/blincod2.jpg

Anybody know where the lone red wire goes?

that is not connected to the blink code tester..it is a power point they may be using for some thing else.
Sox

yes. ignore the extra red wire.

rock on, thanks guys :-)

I don't think that picture is correct. Your LED should have the + lead connected where that fat wire is for +12v and the - lead where it is shown.

Lou

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1175474377.jpg

Thanks Lou. I'll post how it goes once i get the stuff put together :-) maybe tomorrow...

So can anyone confirm which one of the above posted methods is the correct one? I'd hate to tap into the wrong wire and maybe damage the DME/KLR.

Is the polarity of the LED important?

TIA

LED's don't work backwards, a diode is a one-way valve, so yes polarity is important. Hooked backwards, it won't light up.

the photo on the top works.

I know this is a fairly old thread, but I'm just reading it now. Most likely, the fat wire that is connected the + terminal is being used to power an aftermarket (probably an LR) MAF sensor.

for referrence:
---
Build a simple 944 Turbo Blink Code Tester
Building a blink code tester for under $4.00.

Radio Shack has several LEDs that will work for this homemade tester. You will need terminals that can be crimped or soldered onto the wires enabling you to plug into your test terminals. These Butt Terminals work well but are not insulated. You can solder the terminals onto the wires and end up with something that looks like this.

https://www.lindseyracing.com/pics/blincode.jpg

Green LED ~ Catalog #: 276-271 $2.19
Crimp-On Butt Connectors ~ Catalog #: 64-3036 $1.69 (Use the small connectors in the package)

Plug the new code testers positive (red) and negative (black) into the terminals pictured below.

These codes are really just from the KLR. Run the codes right after a test drive with the engine still running, or running the engine above 1500 RPM will also store the codes. As soon as you turn off the car, the stored code is erased. Each single blink code is actually a two digit code, meaning, count the first # of blinks, a short pause, and then the second # of blinks.

Listed below are the codes | possible repair

1-2 voltage under 10.2 | check alternator, battery, regulator, relays or wiring
2-1 knock sensor | Engine damage, tappets rattle, faulty valve, rod bearing, engine knocks.
2-2 knock sensor | Sensor Installation, plug connection at sensor
2-3 KLR defective | Replace KLR
3-1 boost pressure low or zero | Bad wastegate, turbo or intercooler leaks.
3-2 boost pressure to high | Bad Wastegate, cycling valve, wastegate hose off.
3-3 pressure sensor in KLR defective | Replace KLR
4-1 throttle position sensor or wires | Power wire to TPS, ground contact or connection dirty.
4-2 throttle position sensor or wires | TPS bad, but check wires first.

Keep in mind, you could have low boost but not low enough to set off code 3-1. Another important note, manual states if you get code 4-1 & code 3-3 together, ignore 3-3. Lastly, you might want to verify all this by unplugging the TPS, drive around the block or running about 1500rpm, and see if it blinks code 4-1.

The 2-1 and 2-2 (knock codes) do not stay saved if you let the rmp drop below 1500.....
Sox

How can I test my blink codes on my 86 951?

There are at least 2 threads here that go into the details of how to...
Post if you have questions.
Sox

Is there not a tool for sale or do I have to cobble something together?, Hey its cool to pull codes from this car, I just learned about it, and knowlege is power.

you can make it yourself, i've updated post #11 on here that explains how.

Cool bruh, Radio shack is gone, ill have to Ace it out and see if can find that stuff. you plug it in and with the engine at 1500 rpm, it should send its flashing code to be deciphered?