|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 327
|
boost & vac gauge readings
I just installed an aftermarket boost/vac gauge.
What should I be seeing on the gauge for: 1. vac at idle 2. max boost I have Autothority Stage II chips, if it matters. Everything else engine-wise is stock. Bonus question: I had the turbo rebuilt over the winter, and it hasn't been used yet. What boost level should I keep it under, and for how many miles (to break it in)? This will be track use only.
__________________
-- Jim 1983 944 |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Laguna Vista
Posts: 2,203
|
Vac = low end 16 inches high end 18 inches. If it is less than 16" you have a leak some where. (this is warmed up car, no a/c or any other load).
Can't answer the boost question, check with the chip supplier. Never heard of turbo break in, but then it might be my ignorance. Sox
__________________
"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them". 1986 951"MADDOG" black Dual port WG, 4 port control valve with EBC |
||
|
|
|
|
Ornery Bastard
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: South Sound
Posts: 2,879
|
Sox, I'm usually pulling about 20 inches of vacuum at warm idle. 18 inches of vacuum is for cold idle when the car is just started.
16 inches of idle will let the car run OK, but it'll be a little stumbly. 16 inches of vacuum at warm idle definitely means a leak somewhere. I'd say that less than 18 inches at warm idle means a small leak in one of the little lines.
__________________
--------- Silver 1998 Volvo S70 T5 <- Daily (Anja) Guards Red 1986 951 <- Seattle car (Gretchen) White 1976 914 2.0 F.I. <- Prodigal car, traded away then brought back again (Lorelei) |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 327
|
I'm getting about 14 cold, 18 warm for a vac reading at idle. All my lines have been replaced with the Lindsey Racing silicone lines. Should I zip-tie the ends of the vac lines onto the nipples? Does this help? I have seen some people do this.
Another question: Will the vac reading vary depending on where in the vac system the gauge is tapped into? I have removed my heater and AC components, so I hooked the gauge into the "T" connector by the brake booster where the climate control line connected. This way I didn't have to splice into the KLR line like a lot of people do.
__________________
-- Jim 1983 944 |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Laguna Vista
Posts: 2,203
|
AaronM You have a very good system or your gauge is a tad off. Any way I was just giving the minimum for a well secured (leak wise) system.
#39 Your readings are fine, you might have a small leak in the throttle body, tps, idle valve connector(on top) or fuel purge valve. I have used the little spring ties on my small lines see pics. ![]()
__________________
"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them". 1986 951"MADDOG" black Dual port WG, 4 port control valve with EBC |
||
|
|
|
|
Ornery Bastard
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: South Sound
Posts: 2,879
|
Quote:
I'll look into the gauge itself as well. How would I go about calibrating it anyway? It seems basically accurate, sits at "0" with the car off (fully mechanical guage) and Seattle is essentially at sea level.
__________________
--------- Silver 1998 Volvo S70 T5 <- Daily (Anja) Guards Red 1986 951 <- Seattle car (Gretchen) White 1976 914 2.0 F.I. <- Prodigal car, traded away then brought back again (Lorelei) |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 327
|
Quote:
Anyone have any idea on my question regarding the break-in procedure for a newly rebuilt turbo? What boost pressure should I keep it under, and for how many miles? Thanks in advance!
__________________
-- Jim 1983 944 |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Laguna Vista
Posts: 2,203
|
AaronM lol
did not think you were..the gauge will sit at zero because unless you have a "one side sealed" it just reads the vacuum relative to the ambient pressure. The sealed ones require you to set the actual pressure manually at the spot you are. So it reads absolute and that will change with your elevation, the relative gauge will not. (like setting barometric pressure on a airplane altimeter). Any way you are probably getting the right numbers as your car is freshly done. If really you want to know there are a couple of things you can do. 1) Take it to calibration lab. 2) take it to the local airport and a shop that fixes instruments and have them check it. #39 I got mine at a local hardware store.. Sox
__________________
"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them". 1986 951"MADDOG" black Dual port WG, 4 port control valve with EBC |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Very cool clips...
I sit at 15mmhg at 3000 feet if it makes any difference?
__________________
Alex - PCA Polar Region - Boxster Muncher 86' 944 Turbo - Megasquirt - 326 rwhp/340lbft @ 18 psi SOLD www.edmontonhomelife.com www.edmontonrealestate.ws |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Laguna Vista
Posts: 2,203
|
Ae1996 thats cause the outside pressure is lower so the relative shown on your gauge is also lower. I bet when the car is off it shows 0 and not a vacuum of aprox 3.12 inches (standard lapse rate)
Sox
__________________
"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them". 1986 951"MADDOG" black Dual port WG, 4 port control valve with EBC |
||
|
|
|
|
Super Moderator
|
an easy way to test boost/vac gauge accuracy is to use a hand pump that also has a gauge, and compare the two readings.
__________________
'89 turbo-s (2.7, wolf3d ems, garrett dbb turbo, tial 46mm, etc. fast!) |
||
|
|
|