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951- turbo thermostat issue

Hello all,
Got my car running and driving, very well by the way, plenty of power everything works well except....
It starting getting to hot from the beginning. I didn't go far, couple of blocks and I never let it get too hot. It went up to the mark above half, then I shut it down. It didn't seem to want to go much higher, I didn't want to take the chance with my expensive rebuild job.
During the engine rebuild I replaced the water pump, thermostat (normal one) all hoses, the radiator, (new Behr unit) turbo water pump and I added a new fan temp switch while I was in there.
So I thought I left no stone unturned...
Well I left out the thermostat to the turbo, and I guess the water just goes back to the coolant res. and barely into the radiator. Over flowed the res. and came bubbling out.
I am not sure the main thermostat even opened completely.
Wow! rookie mistake, I have made a few on this car.
Would this keep the main thermostat from opening completely? Would this make the car overheat? Anyone have experienced with this??
Driving the car a little though I can tell it was all worth it.

I also have a little whine from up front, the belts it sounds like, it this normal??
my 1987 has the cam belt auto tensioner, I used a gauge for the balance belt.

As always, thanks for the help and support.
clarkeph

Old 09-22-2007, 06:27 PM
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The missing turbo thermostat will not cause the car to over heat. It will just allow the coolant to go from the the turbo to the main cooling loop. This happens at 82 deg C any way. The over heat may be due to improper venting of the coolant system.
Sox
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1986 951"MADDOG" black
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Old 09-22-2007, 06:48 PM
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Thanks sox,
I already tried to bleed it with the vent screw, it seemed to be fine.
I got a new t-stat with the water pump, maybe it is not opening properly, I did not feel much flow through the lower radiator hose to the water pump.
I am going to replace both thermostats and see what happens.
Plenty of coolant in the engine when I removed the plastic w/pump t/stat to turbo elbow. I am thinking without the turbo t-stat it may take longer to open the main t-stat.
Where does your car run on the temp gauge? I bought this car not running so I have no idea...half way up??
Thanks,
clarkeph
Old 09-22-2007, 07:22 PM
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At where it says fan on...
Sox


Also vent is a long and painful process so you may have to do it a few times.
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black
Dual port WG, 4 port control valve with EBC
Old 09-22-2007, 08:20 PM
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I will try the venting thing again, I will install the turbo stat first though I don't want to take it apart and do this again later! Existing new main t-stat should be fine.
So what is the easiest way to get it bled and working correctly? I have looked around on different sites, they say to presurize system and vent with bleed screw.
It isn't that easy though is it?

My gauge was going barely over the next line above where you show fans on.
thats where I shut it off.

Car runs great though.
Old 09-22-2007, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soxnail View Post

Also vent is a long and painful process so you may have to do it a few times.

+1 on that, It really is worth getting a radiator pressure tester to vent the coolant system on these cars. Then follow the write-up on Clark's, works like a charm. I've read on other posts that Autozone etc. sell some for around $50. MAKE SURE it's the type that will fit our cooling tank.

I got mine from Eastwood>>LINK<< about 5 years back (before I got the 951) and it's a great tool to have around if you do your own repairs. Has saved me quite a bit of $$$ and headaches over the years.
Old 09-23-2007, 08:57 AM
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I posted a thread with a home made pressurizing and testing system..look it up.
Sox
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"Little problems always come back and bring bigger friends with them".
1986 951"MADDOG" black
Dual port WG, 4 port control valve with EBC
Old 09-23-2007, 09:05 AM
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Yes Sox very "cool" idea. Here is the >>LINK<< to make it easier to find.
Old 09-23-2007, 10:10 AM
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You guys will get a laugh out of this....
I used the method Clarke's does not reccomend. I pressurized the tank by blowing air into it, Pinch off the overflow hose, and just clean/wipe it off put your lips on it. Jeez what is the big deal. I have been syphoning gas and doing stuff like this for 25 years. (And yes I am very healthy) This works pretty well and is low pressure, I was able to find the only leaks I had at the elbow to the rear of the cylinder head, and at the turbo water pump. I bled the system this way also. It seemed to work ok no leaks now. When I get the turbo t-stat I will buy a quality pressure tester (I own and sell mutiple vehicles it makes sense)
I will also remove the pipe to the upper rad hose, swing it up to fill the engine block with coolant, remove and re-install it to the lower hose and make sure the rad is filled also. (Clarke's mentions this also) Then I will bleed the system as required, I need to have the coolant at the main t-stat so it will open correctly. It is not about the money, I just never needed a pressure tester before. I already blew my budget for the rebuild by about $2,000.00
what's another fifty or couple hundred.......I need it finished.
I will order the parts Monday, and check locally for the tester.
Hopefully pictures of the car outside & running will follow shortly.
clarkeph
Old 09-23-2007, 02:54 PM
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i would highly recommend installing the lindsey steam vent kit. you will never have to vent your coolant again.
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Old 09-24-2007, 09:35 AM
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I installed the small turbo t-stat last night, I got a really nice radiator pressure tester, it worked great. Autozone $75.00 deposit I can use it for a while too for free. I may even keep it. They are not easy to find. So I bled it, ran it, bled it some more. Still running too hot a little better though. Holds pressure with no leaks. Car runs excellent, Idles great very quick too. Temp seems to go down as I rev it, goes below the last white line, then heats up to the line and goes a little further. Intake is warm but touchable, cam housing seems pretty hot. I think the main t-stat is the problem. I am installing a 80 degree C one next so it may open sooner, fans are on low and high as they should.
I used a new lower temp fan switch. I don't know what else it could be. Radiator is brand new like everything else.
I have read some posts about faulty or higher temp t-stats.
Hope I can get it out ok. I have the tools...
Still have a little whine coming from the belt area, front of the motor.....
any other suggestions??
Old 09-26-2007, 01:48 PM
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do you have a photo of how you installed the main crank pully? it's a common part that gets installed backwards, and causes a whine.
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:58 PM
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Other than the stat;

1) Are both of your fans working? Something to check as one of them could be kaput!

2) Are they coming on at proper ref. mark on the gauge (proper temp)?

3) Check your coolant mixture. If you are running too much A/F it could make the cooling system less effective. On that same note, being that you live in SD you can get away with running more H2O than A/F. This would reduce the boiling point but improve the cooling efficiency of the system…….it’s a fine line and I know it sounds like a contradiction but trust me on that. I live @ 10K’ of elevation and the boiling point of water here is around 195F. When playing around with cars that have marginal cooling systems up here (not referring to the 951) you learn a trick or two.

4) Try bleeding it a few more times (with heater running) and make sure you are keeping the reservoir tank really FULL when using the pressure bleeder. Don’t want to be pushing air into the system instead of coolant.

Last edited by 951Boost; 09-26-2007 at 04:25 PM.. Reason: typo
Old 09-26-2007, 04:21 PM
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Thanks guys,
I had it out on the road tonight, put about 12 miles on it. Needed to get some fresh gas in it. Checked the coolant tank and topped it up to high mark before I left. (needed only a little) Ran between normal white line and the 2nd/last white line that was encouraging. Seemed to keep creeping up but was below it at cruise. Idled around the last white mark though.
When I got home it overflowed out the cap's relief valve in my driveway.
Tested the cap to 20 psi OK.
Fans both work and go to high speed, earlier due to the low temp optional switch available from Pelican Parts.
New t-stat tonight, we'll see, then bleed, drive, bleed repeat....
The car runs really well, I can't believe the power it has. Up to 80 on my little drive, then 80 down the freeway with the cruise on hmmmm.
I also have a 450hp 383/5spd 1970 vette I drive so I know what fast is all about.
I see why everyone loves these cars so much, nice interiors, cool looks, but the ride is a little stiff. Low pro 18's don't help.
As for the whine..
I removed all the crank pulleys when I had the oil pressure problem, so the pulleys have been double checked. I put them on with advice from manuals, Clarke's and others to check proper orientation.
Here is a progress picture... were getting there!!


Old 09-26-2007, 07:05 PM
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clarkeph, congrats!! I need to do some reading because I never found out why your rebuild wouldn't start but I'm happy to hear she is purring now. I swear I replaced everything in my coolant system and it still ran hotter than normal until I put a slightly lower temp termostat in it. Now it runs perfect.... actually the coolant system runs perfect... I'm still driving my 951 with bad rings and going through oil like no other but that's another story. I'll be putting in my new engine within the month so cross your fingers for me. The main reason I wanted to respond is due to your newly aquired "whine". Mine aquired it's whine 6 months ago when I intalled a new waterpump and it almost makes it sound supercharged in the sense that it escalates with rpm and is pretty noticible even to cockpit members. Pisses the #$$# out of me but the kids think its the coolest sound. My problem is, since then I replaced the water pump again and still the same whine. I'm left with thinking it must be one of my pumps going out but it's wierd because it's a consistant sound and it's a legitimate whine not a schreech or slipping sound, when you narrow it down I would love to know. Bron.

Old 09-27-2007, 07:58 AM
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