M030 sway bar bushings

[Turbo_Euro951]

just bought new bushings for my what I think is an M030( I was told this by the previous owner!) suspension. The bushings that I put on are a little loose and the ride is fine but when I replaced them I did the tierod ends as well. The problem is the slack that was in the steering before hand I would have though would be fixed with fresh swaybar bushings and new tie rod ends. Yet on the highway the suspension is still loosy goose and seems have control problems. There are no alignment issues but I wonder if when I got my alignment they only moved the Inner tie rod ends to adjust toe which could explain the looseness. I am unsure and would really like to get the suspension back to that nice tight feeling.

[Spidey944]

I have seen the u-joints on the steering shaft cause that steering vagueness you describe.

As far as your alignment goes, the only way to adjust the toe is to turn the inner tie rods. What other method are you talking about, or were you referring to them not setting caster/camber as well?

If your rear suspension is toed out, and they didnt adjust it, that would also make the car drive funny.

[Turbo_Euro951]

yeah I am not sure I thought that you adjusted toe by both the inner and outer tie rod ends it would make sense that if you adjust the inners too far out just to make them even it could cause the slack.

However what you reccomended sounds much more likely that the UJoints have gone bad. Can i just pull the boots back on the rack to inspect them or is there something specific I should look for.

I looked to see if I could just buy the Ujoint or even just the inner tierods because the outers are brand new and the kit with the rods and the ends are all that is available. any suggestions? can I rebuild them?

[Spidey944]

Well, by u-joints I meant the ones on the steering shaft. Not the rack n pinion. If you jack the car up and support the front end under the control arms to put some weight on them, you can shake the wheel at 12:00 and 6:00 (up n down) gently and feel for play. Do the same at 3:00 and 9:00 positions (side 2 side).

Up and down play can be wheel bearings or the lower ball joints. Side to side can be wheel bearings, tie rods, slop in the rack and pinion internally, or worn steering shaft joints. The best way to check the joints is to physicaly grab it from underneath and shake it. It's a pain to get to, but reaching up from the bottom under the master cyl is the best way to get ahold of it. GL.

[nize]

worn steering control arm ball joints could also cause the loose/vague steering feeling. have you checked your ball joint play?

[MarkRobinson]

My car also has this vague steering response as described above, though tie rods are tight & my car has the Fabcar a-arms. I need to check my steering u-joint as well.

Mark

[MarkRobinson]

Paragon products has a great selection of upgraded swaybar bushings & such for the M030, listed under 968 as it was more common under that application than under turbo S.

Mark

[nize]

paragon sells racer's edge bushings. you can get them directly from racer's edge here;
http://racersedge-inc.com/

[MarkRobinson]

Not just the Racer's edge it appears: I went to both sites:

http://www.*****************.com/product_p/re_mc-4000.htm



http://www.*****************.com/product_p/re_mc-4100set.htm



http://www.*****************.com/product_p/kla_droplinkkit.htm



or you could install:



http://www.*****************.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=968m

[nize]

ah yes, i forgot about kla industries, which is also sold by paragon;
http://www.klaindustries.net/

[Turbo_Euro951]

I have an update....

Just took the car back to the place I had the alignment done and they checked it out I was not able to check the ball joints however my steering shaft UJoints are fine as are my tie rod ends (inners too!) and there is no play in my rack I am plagued by this My next option is to upgrade and Put aftermarket ball joints in the car......My front is lowered an inch and I have been reading that Lowerd cars are more prone to ball joint failure is this true?? Has anyone ever installed the aftermarket kit....I have a feeling that its gonna suck but I one person tells me its not that bad and that an average guy can tackle it I will.

is there an efficient manner to check the play in the joints because I loaded the wheels and cannot tell if there is play specifically in the ball joints. What is the tell tale sign that they need to be replaced.....

[MarkRobinson]

my '88TS has tight tie rods, Fabcar a-arms, lots of slop: haven't checked the alignment or the u-joint yet.

[kdjones2000]

Regarding the ball joints: If you have a drill, a nice big clamp and a large socket you should be able to rebuild them yourself.

I would get a set of the Bronze bushings (Rennbay track kit was what I used) as these will last longer than those nylon things.

Good luck,

Keith

[MarkRobinson]

I just measured the dia. of my turbo S sway bars last night: 27mm & 17mm for the rear: does this sound right? I recently red that the Turbo S swaybars are 29mm or so.

Yes, the car IS a turbo S, just miffed at this find.

Mark

[nize]

front sway bar sizes;

25.5mm = turbo
26.8mm = turbo-s
30mm = 968

a popular upgrade for 951 is the 30mm 968 sway bar as it's stock fit.

[MarkRobinson]

thank you, that makes perfect sense.