Boost Issues...

[beefey]

So I installed a boost gauge as recommended, I'm not going to say how I did it to stir controversy lol but I'm reading about 3-4 psig which is obviously WAY low. Is it safe to say this car will have oodles more power when I get it to boost to the proper level because right now it's not that special. What is the first order of business?

Should I check the WG or rip the intake manifold off and look for poor hoses?

Thanks guys,
Beefey

[ilikemy944]

Check the WG. Also make sure there are no tears in the line to the wastegate.
Also the cyclic valve ports break real easy - check to make sure everything is secure.

[beefey]

Tonight I clamped off the line to the WG per clarks garage instructions with very little luck. I might have got an extra psi but thats about it. So with it clamped I taped 5 psi in 3rd. Does this mean I can rule out to WG? I'm gettin a little under 10 mm Hg below atmospheric on the vaccum side at idle is that about right?

Where do I look now?

Thanks,
Beefey

[nize]

sounds like you have some serious vacuum leaks somewhere. time to check the complete vacuum lines. there is a routing diagram on here somewhere.

[beefey]

So do you think it would be who of me just to replace all the vac. lines under the intake manifold? They are pretty crusty but no apparent blatent cracks.

-Beefey

[carlege]

for 40 dollars for the lindsey racing vaccum kit it would make sense. I think the ones under the intake manifold would be the cluprits what year is it?

[beefey]

It's an 88' vaccum leak makes good sense too considering it's been idling a bit funky lately too.

[beefey]

The vacuum line going to the bottom of the TB was not hooked up at all. Would that be enough for the engine not to boost? I find it hard to believe it could bleed off that much through that little straw but what I do know... What do you guys think?

Thanks
Beefey

[beefey]

Is this line a vacuum line? It goes into the fender wall. Should I replace it?



Thanks
Beefey

[carlege]

do you have the Porsche manuals? i would think you could find them in there

[nize]

the link to the manuals is in the first post in this forum!

[choinga]

First of all, if you want the most accurate reading from your boost gauge you should run it to the intake manifold. I wouldn't recommend splicing off your KLR, if that's what you did. It's the easy way for sure.

Second, you need to pull the intake off and start re-running vacuum lines. The Lindsey kit is good, but you might want to grab the other hoses under there that run to the ISV and brake booster as well.

There are other places you could have vacuum problems as well - not just the smaller lines - check the intercooler pipes, blow off valve (the stock ones are notorious for going bad), J-pipe, etc...

The stock WG might be hosed, but regardless you should fix what's under the hood first and then you can reliably troubleshoot the WG. Try to keep the number of T's that you use to a minimum.

The best diagrams I've found are here: http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/VACDIA.html

Others have mentioned the CV - definitely a possibility. If that thing goes your boost will be completely unreliable and you'll want to find someone parting a car or something to buy one from - getting them new/OEM isn't cheap.

BUT, before you do that - you should consider whether or not you are going to put in a dual-port wastegate. If you go with a Tial, for example, you'll bypass the CV and then of course there's no need to fix/replace.

So, a lot of options here but first and foremost, re-run the vacuum lines and make sure you don't have any leaks under the hood and then start troubleshooting the other stuff.

[beefey]

Originally Posted by choinga

First of all, if you want the most accurate reading from your boost gauge you should run it to the intake manifold. I wouldn't recommend splicing off your KLR, if that's what you did. It's the easy way for sure.

Second, you need to pull the intake off and start re-running vacuum lines. The Lindsey kit is good, but you might want to grab the other hoses under there that run to the ISV and brake booster as well.

There are other places you could have vacuum problems as well - not just the smaller lines - check the intercooler pipes, blow off valve (the stock ones are notorious for going bad), J-pipe, etc...

The stock WG might be hosed, but regardless you should fix what's under the hood first and then you can reliably troubleshoot the WG. Try to keep the number of T's that you use to a minimum.

The best diagrams I've found are here: http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/VACDIA.html

Others have mentioned the CV - definitely a possibility. If that thing goes your boost will be completely unreliable and you'll want to find someone parting a car or something to buy one from - getting them new/OEM isn't cheap.

BUT, before you do that - you should consider whether or not you are going to put in a dual-port wastegate. If you go with a Tial, for example, you'll bypass the CV and then of course there's no need to fix/replace.

So, a lot of options here but first and foremost, re-run the vacuum lines and make sure you don't have any leaks under the hood and then start troubleshooting the other stuff.

I really appreciate your extensive post! Thank you for the tips. I do not believe I tapped the KLR for my boost gauge however or at least I dont think I did. Doesnt the KLR tap directly onto the manifold? If you look closely that white hard line is my boost gauge that is tapped into the "bell".

Has anyone found a good way to get those crimp style hose clamps off?

Thanks Guys!
Beefey

[carlege]

Originally Posted by choinga

BUT, before you do that - you should consider whether or not you are going to put in a dual-port wastegate. If you go with a Tial, for example, you'll bypass the CV and then of course there's no need to fix/replace.

Bit hasty. i believe you need to make sure the car boost well and runs. if that means having to buy used parts such as a used wastegate for 50 or CV the im sure it would come out cheaper then investing in a new dual port wastegate that might set you back 350 with adaptors. Start out with meat and potatos then work your way to dessert. Just my opinion.

[choinga]

Opinions are like @$$holes...everyone has one, right?

I'm just saying, going w/ a dual port isn't a bad upgrade to begin with and if he's going to do that then he can just dump the CV and nowhere in the OP's post did he say he was looking to go the cheap route or didn't want to spend any money. When I was at that stage w/ my car I wish someone would have told me that as well and I wouldn't have wasted my time with Lindsey boost kit and such since I knew I wanted to upgrade my stock WG. Waste of money...

Anyway, while you've got the intake off and are running new vacuum lines, it's a good idea to know if you are going to take this route - saves a bit of work in the long run.

Agreed though that you need to get the rest of your vacuum issues squared away first. But keep in mind where you intend to go so you don't pay for something that you're going to turn around and disable/remove in a month or so (ask me how I know...).

Yes, the KLR line is usually that clearish one that comes directly off the intake banjo. There's a reason why it's not T'd somewhere and is a direct line to the KLR. You should do the same with the boost gauge, if you haven't already.

I bought one of these from Laust over on Renn's and love it. It gives me 5 connections right off the banjo on the intake. This was a while back and I have no idea if he's still selling them - but they are sure are handy. There are a few things that you want to connect directly to the intake when at all possible and the stock configuration doesn't allow that. I run my 3BAR FPR, BOV and boost gauge directly off the intake.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/206940-vacuum-manifold-and-other-stuff.html

As for getting the crimped clamps off - I have a couple cutters like these of different sizes that I use - allows you get the right leverage...



Good luck!!

[carlege]

Yes and no. if you have followed beefys journey you will know his car has a rediculous amount of miles and was stored for a number of years. General rule is to make sure everything it working well then modify or upgrade. Im sure you would agree thats the smart opinion

[beefey]

I feel like if I change too many things at once it's going to be hard to isolate the actual problem... I do however at some point want to turn up the boost. I see what you are saying about getting some ideas now so you dont have to pull off the intake again in a couple weeks to change vac. line configs and install a MBC.

Some of the vac. lines look to be a fiber wrapped hydraulic style hose. Do I need to replace them with the like?

-Beefey

[beefey]

I have a wastegate on the way so I thought I'd start ripping out the old one... This doesnt look like it's going to be easy. The bolts that hold these two flanges together are TOTALLY rusted to the point where they are just round studs. I zipped the nut off the bolts thinking I could just pound them out with a punch. I was wrong.

The bolts I circled in the three bolt flange are not actually threaded into the flange are they?

Thanks,
Beefey

[PAUERMAN]

No, the three bolts you have circled with push right through with a punch.

[beefey]

Awesome thanks for the reply Pauerman! Also can I actually get the WG out by unbolting downsteam to the midpipe connection with just two bolts holding it together?

Thanks,
Scott