repacking CV joints Do I need to remove transaxle oil cooling loop?
 

I'm ready to pull the half-axle but I cannot figure out how to remove it. The oil cooler loop on the tranny interferes. Are there any special tricks to this or do I have to drain the tranny and remove the loop?

No need to remove the cooling loop. You only have to remove the 12 bolts, 6 at the tranny, 6 at the wheel hub. Half shafts drop right out.

Thanks. Thats already done, but I still cannot manouvre the axle out. I can't free it on the wheel side.
The axle itself is completely free. I can move it some distance on the tranny side, but on the trailing arm side it gets caught on the trailing arm itself.

It seems to me I need to manouvre the shaft in such a way that will allow me to pull it out toward the tranny and out of the "cup" in the trailing arm where the cv joint connection to the stub shaft is located. If not for the cooling coil I could lower the tranny side joint below the tranny and pull the shaft out that way. This is not possible with the coil and the tranny prevents me from pulling the shaft out of the trailing arm "cup".

happened to me too. was putting it back in and all the balls fell out and clocked me right in the head....THAT sucks! had to loosen the fuel filter so it would flex a little and it popped into place, its tight but doable.

I have removed mine at least 6 times over the years. On the passenger side, I may have had to compress the joint to get it out but it will come out without removing anything else. I have a car lift so that does give me better access. Mine is an '86.

Wish I had a lift.
Does it take a lot of force to compress? I have a weak left arm so I'm not able to use a lot of force on it. May that is why I'm not succeeding? Maybe I need to get someone to help me compress it.

Mine did not take too much force to compress. I had to compress mine to get the passenger side out. The CV joints have to be able to expand and retract depending where the wheel is in relation to the transmission during suspension movement. I weigh 145 pounds and have a lot of age on me. So I do not win strongman contests. I reverse the rotation of mine to extend the life of the joint.

About all you are doing is compressing the rubber bellows and overcoming whatever friction there is inside the thing. Maybe some help might be in order.

Having the rear suspension unloaded helps, ive tried doing them on my friends drive on lift (and on ramps) and its far easier to get the CV assembly out with the suspension unloaded on a regular 2-post lift.

Basically push the axle shaft inwards to compress the joint towards the wheel, then swing the transmission side of the joint forward and up (towards the transmission tunnel) to get the clearance you need. Installation is the reverse, stick the axle up at an angle, get the wheel side mated with the stub axle flange and maneuver it down while pushing it in towards the wheel to get it over the transmission side flange.

I have a freshly re-built/repacked set of axles for sale, fit turbo's, S2's. asking $400.

Mark

Thanks, but mine have just done 62K miles. They should last a long while if properly cared for. This is really routine maintenance done while changing a bade wheel bearing.

I haven't had time to have a look at the axle yet. Will tackle it tomorrow.