the HCV is not that hard to replace. Just disconnect vacuum line, hose at firewall and also the hose at top on engine (under intake). Pull the whole set out. Check the HVC as previously mentioned. Reassemble with new hoses, finagle the whole mess into position and re attach the hoses. DONE:)

ok, sounds like a plan

This thread has been really helpful and timely for me.

I am in the process of the same project. Intake came off tonight easily. So doing the vacuum lines, radiator hoses, will check heater control valve, and hoses. Also doing seals on injectors and hats along with high pressure fuel lines. I will also check ground at back of engine and get that cleaned and put some grease on it. If I am feeling really adventurous I will check the timing belt as well.

Is there anything else that I would just be stupid to not do while in there? Please let me know.

Thanks

Check the top of the turbo, oil feed line, change the small o ring inside since you will be right there, part # is in one of these threads, clean or replace idle control valve, also the alternator replace voltage regulator since you are there, I sense mixed thought on rebuilding injectors if there are no problems, I think I will take the chance and install the injector kits I already have, also opportunity to get everything cleaned up under the intake, makes for spotting problems like leaks easier, i plan on repainting the intake while I have it off, I get my car back in a few days and will start on it, good luck , quickster

"Especially with the auto tensioner for the timing belt. I use the twist method myself with no problems." <- Quote from Ga 951

I was hoping that Ga 951 or someone else would it be able to describe the "twist method" in more details for the belts. I am at the point where I have the belts exposed, and I know I should change them, having no history on belt or WP change from the PO. But I am concerned about getting in over my head with this project. The belts look good, just wanted to see if there was an easy way to check the condition. And before someone says it, I know when in doubt...change the belts,

Thanks
Scott

2001f4s I would change those belts regardless of how good they look, if the belt breaks the results are catestrophic and you need the proper tension gauge, when the turbo kicks in there is a lot of stress on the belts, I guess the wp could wait until obvious problem, believe me its worth it to drive at speed knowing at least the belts are good, also checking the condition of the rollers and seals when replacing the belts, maybe you will hear from someone who has experienced a broken cam belt
just my 2 cents worth. good luck
I have my car back and getting ready to change the rest of the coolant and vacuum hoses, good info at texasblake site and here

You should be able to BARELY twist the timing belt 90° by hand when tensioned properly. Another good test is that you should also BARELY be able to rotate the water pump with both hands when the belt is tensioned.

The balance shaft belt you should be able to twist 180° by hand.

Both of these "twist measurements" should be done in the middle of the longest span of the belt, mind you. If you do it with an inch of free belt in between two cogs, you're gonna make trouble for yourself.

I have tensioner tools from arnworx and the belts I've done by hand have come out within spec when checked with the tool. I think these tensioner tools are gimmicks and not really needed.

quicketer/Chally,
Thanks for those responses. Exactly what I was looking for.

Once last question; if the rollers and seals look good, is changing just the belts unwise?

Thanks again.
Scott

If they haven't been changed at 106,000, you might want to do rollers and cogs. Pelican has a kit. I know it's expensive, but it is worth the peace of mind.

What about the water pump?

I was going to just have my belts changed and decided to go ahead and change the waterpump although there was no sign of trouble. When the mechanic had to pull the belts & rollers he's already there to pull the WP. I rather do it at my conveience rather than be stuck on the roadside somewhere not knowing who to call, glad i did it now. Now getting ready to change the rest of the coolant hoses and vacuum lines.

OK, I have removed the fuel rail, air box, air plumbing, intake manifold. When pulling on the fuel rail the injectors released from the rail and stayed in the intake. I hope I didnt damage anything, they look ok with the rail clips on the top of the injectors. The vacuum lines actually looked ok, pliable and tight connection except at end of venturi was very loose. I will clean up and install the venturi kit, mayble a few more coolant hoses. The spark plug wires were routed through the middle of the rail jumper hose to the damper. Need better way to route them.
Thanks for tips on this and other post.

quickster

Quickster,

You probably didn't damage the injectors, they have an O ring on the intake end that gets baked on and hard to remove. Spray some penetrating oil on them and let it do it's thing. Then pull them out by hand with a twisting/pulling motion. I would avoid prying on them if at all possible.
Are you not doing the venturi delete? I don't remember the MY of you car. Earlys have the venturi and and the late models don't. ( Mine didn't anyhow )

Chally, excellent description of the twist method and advise.

Thanks Ga 951
Letting the inj soak now. I have a 1987 951 and it has the venturi. I have the venturi delete kit and plan on installing it if it doesnt get too complicated. Texasblake instructions are based on the 1986 model, not sure of any differences in vacuum setup between two models.

quickster

If you removed your intake manifold, pay CAREFUL attention to the placement of the intake gasket on the number one cylinder....Numbers 2 through 4 the gasket can go on with either side up...number one is different. The gasket is the same, but if installed wrong, you will block half of the injector pocket in the head.

Put the gasket on the #1 cylinder on the head, look at the injector pocket, then turn the gasket over, you'll clearly see how the gasket blocks the injector pocket if installed incorrectly.

got it