Removing headers, crossover and downpipe. What hardware is needed to reinstall?
 

As the topic says, I am going to remove the headers and crossover pipe (To replace as they are without intact heat shields) + the downtube because I will heat wrap it and install a homemade exhast from downpipe and backwards.

What hardware will I need to refit the parts? Is it sufficient with new crush rings and manifold gaskets?

Is it difficult to get at these parts without taking out the turbo? Or will it perhaps have to come out?

Also, the homemade exhaust I'll weld will be in steel, as I don't have the equipment to weld stainless. Any suggestions on how to preserve the metal so it won't rust?

New crush rings for the crossover, plus the downpipe.

You might want to get new hardware to fasten everything together as well. I know that Rennbay sells a kit of nuts and bolts for this job if you want to go that way.

You will need to remove the turbocharger if you want to remove the DP. Some of those bolts are pretty tricky to get out, and make sure that you don't strip them.

Good luck,
Keith

Thanks for the advice. Do I have to remove the turbo completely, or can I just swing it to the side? If it needs to be removed, what should I change of o-rings etc while I'm at it? The car has driven 200 000km (about 120 000 miles), and the turbocharger is the original. Is it likely that it needs replacing soon and thus should be dealt with at the same time?

You do not have to remove turbo to remove or install downpipe. I should quantify that by saying that I have a lot of tools.

So any thoughts on wether or not the turbo needs replacing given it's mileage? It appears to be in good condition, but then again I have only owned the car for a little over one month, so if it is not up to spec I wouldn't know how the car should feel like with a 100% working turbo.

And also what shouldi treat the mild steel exhaust with to protect against rust?

Is there any point in heat wrapping the headers I put on when they have the stock heat shielding intact?

Check the turbo for play: Take off the j-boot and see how much play the impeller has axially and radially. If you are not getting a lot of smoke while on boost now, and the impeller is not too loose then I would say keep what you have.

KKK's have been fine for much more than the ~120k miles you have.

As for wrapping the crossover pipe, I suppose it would help to keep more heat in the exhaust gases, but seems like a bit of overkill to me.

Good luck, Keith

This is not a great job or easy. I would really think about rebuilding at the minimum if not thinking about upgrading to something a little better.

The reason for wrapping would both be to retain exhaust heat/energy thus building boost quicker, and also to keep underhood temps down as it gets quite hot. That way the air entering the inlet manifold would also be cooler. Also it will prolong the life of engine-bay parts as heat breaks down rubber etc. When I am changing headers and crossoverpipe anyway, it is a easy thing to do at the same time. I am just not sure wether wrapping on the outside of the existing shielding would give additional heat reduction or not? Especially since the heat shield flanges stick out and prevents the wrapping from lying tight against the pipes all the way around them.

As for upgrading the turbo: My power goal will never be beyond 350 crank HP, probably not even more than 300 crank HP. (As anything above will require much money for many additional parts etc). How much power can the stock 26/6 support without excessive backpressure? I have already bought and will install a 38mm Tial wastegate, a turbosmart E-boost electronic boost controller, 3" exhaust from the downtube outlet and back, and I will also purchase a Rogue A-tune chip with MAP, and a 3 bar FPR. I plan on keeping the stock AFM.

I have been thinking about upgrading to a 26/8, but I suspect that would result in slightly more lag and increased boost threshold limit. Does anyone have any knowledge regarding this?

Thank you for the advice.

I do get a big puff of smoke when I go on heavy boost after normal cruising. But it is not lasting long. Just leaving a big cloud behind me. Not sure wether it's excess fuel or if it is oil-smoke. It doesn't look particularly blue (oil), more greyish. Fuel would be more dark grey/black?

I will take of the J-boot and check tonight. Will I be able to notice excessive play only by checking via the compressor side? On the 1.8T audi engines I am used to from before, I have to have one hand on the compressor wheel and the other on the turbine wheel to really feel it properly, but those K03 turbos are tiny though.

Loose the studs and use bolts when you put the headers back on, in the future it makes taking the head off sooooo simple

My advice, drive her "as-is". Put the easy "mods" on/in, and wait for her to blow. Remember this however, boosting a stock block with 100000 miles will only yield you about 12000 miles.

Rick

PS. Check the oil