no i did not! thank you! i will probably check that tomorrow night. heading to lowes to get a clamp for that line. just figured out that i need to just clamp that line, and not remove it or anything.

Vacuum System Replacement - Porsche 951 - www.texasblake.com

VACUUM HOSE KIT 924 / 944 ALL / 968 at LINDSEY RACING - Your Porsche Performance Parts Center

I recommend you do that to your car first. Trust me it sounds like a lot of work, but in reality it will save you a ton of time. If I wouldn't have done this i would have gernaded my engine. After I did this and the FPR my car ran great.

Get that kit and do the vacuum lines. This should be done for every turbo if it hasn't been done yet.

You can check your wastegate easily enough at idle before running the car hard. Just touch the wastegate pipe (VERY CAREFULLY) and if it is hot downstream of the wastegate before having driven/boosted the car then the wastegate is sticking open.
Personally I wouldn't have tapped into the KLR line but don't think it would make much of a difference.

Out of curiosity, is the car running the same as it was before? Or is it slower? I would also check your intercooler pipe couplers. Take them off, clean and inspect them for small tears especially near the clamps. That is a common area for boost leaks which are easy to overlook.

i bought the car, but all of the lines look new, so i dont know. i did the wastegate check and the car boosted up to 10 nice and easy, so i guess the cv is bad? it does look a bit old. should i do this delete thing, or buy a new cv? the idea is to get the car to stock and then modify it from there, i just want to make sure the car is fine before i realy start messing with it.. what do you guys suggest?

lot's of people/sites that sell good used parts, I'd opt for the route of getting the car up and running properly before you start the mods.

Well my theory is. If I am going to spend the money on a stock replacement part, I would just rather get the modified alternative. For example, take your problem. There are many things that could lead to boost issues. To fix it, eventually you have to make up your mind when to start throwing money and parts at it. So, if your stock BOV is in question I would be inclined to upgrade. Many parts fall into the "while your in there" category. If your compressor wheel is banged up on your turbo would you put it back to stock? Only afterwards realizing that, then would have been a good time to upgrade? Not me.

Obviously if the car won't start or idle and such, I get it. Otherwise, mod it baby!

Now its your call.

Rick

There seems to be a lot of controversy with the whole cv delete thing as well as with what type of bov is good for our cars. I am thinking now that the best way to go is take off the intake manifold, do the venturi delete, get new intake gaskets, replace the cv with a working cv (like 50 bucks from ebay shipped, unless you guys know a better place), do the line replacement (even though it all looks good, can't hurt and I will just keep the lines in case something happens later, and then put it all together and see. I am going to see if I can test the bov to see if it is bad (anyone know a good test?) and if it is, probably replace with stock, as I don't see an advantage with others besides the woosh sound which is fun.

If that doesn't work than it has to be the computers, which at some point in the near future I am going to take out and open up and have a look, to see if anything obvious jumps at me (i am also have weird electrical things, so maybe). I just have to find another 951 out here in NoVa who can do a quick swap with me to see if it is that.

How does this sound? Am I missing any "while i'm in there" stuff that I should do? Am I missing anything else that is obvious to everyone but me?

Thanks everyone!

Get a Forge recirculating BOV instead of a stock one. Stock ones are prone to failure (mine was bad), and even new ones can fail early on. If you clamped off the wastegate and still only are getting low boost then either the WG or the BOV are bad. That or you have a large leak somewhere else, which would show up in poor idling/driving.

Do all of this except I would replace your Recirc valve with a Forge or all metal unit. There are a lot of different ones out there. It will last forever and its a good upgrade.

Re-doing the vacuum lines and venturi delete was one of the best things I did to this car. It got rid of any potential issues before they happened. One problem with turbo cars Vacuum leaks and Boost leaks will kill performance and will make them not run correctly.

recirculating valve is the bov right?

Yup.

given the price of those bov's, I think I am going to stick with the stock one until I get the engine running properly. As I understand it, since I got good boost when I clamped off the wastegate, then the bov should be good for now, unless I am mistaken?

I thought I read above that you only got 1 psi more boost with the hose clamped?

You should have your boost go WAY up (Be careful) and will likely go into limp mode, if things are working as they should.

Maybe I missed something....

i got 1 more psi when i connected the bov. when i did the wastegate clamp it shot to 10 nice and easy. no limp mode, but i stopped at 10psi...

Yeah. Your BOV should be good. Keep us updated.

easy way to test your BOV if you don't have a vacuum pump....remove it from the j-boot, turn it over and carefully stick your finger into the bottom of the valve, check that the diaphram is not broken (usually you can SEE the break just by looking into it though)

Awesome! I will look at it tonight! (The wife took it today...bad part about teaching her how to drive a stick....haha)

If you're getting good boost with the WG line clamped then it is probably not your BOV causing the problem. Easy enough to check it, though.

Thats what I am thinking, but I am going to take off the intake stuff to check the turbine for play this weekend anyway, so I may as well have a peek.