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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 7
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944 engine pull
so, I have an '88 944 Turbo. The alternator died. Also, the valve heads are leaking, the rear main seal pours out oil and the oil pan gasket is leaking as well. The radiator is leaking as well. These are the known issues, yeah right, the known issues.
Due to a comedy of errors in my life, I need to get this car back on the road. I am thinking at this point the easiest thing to do is to pull the entire engine, replace all the seals, fix the alternator, replace the radiator (I have one, thank goodness). Anyone have an opinion if this is the best course of action? How hard is it to pull an engine in a 944. I am no mechanic, but, can usually figure stuff out, given enough time and determination. Any advice would be appreciated. Recondoc (4th Mar Div, 8404/8427) |
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01-24-2013, 10:27 AM
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It's a pain in the butt. All this should be doable with the engine still in the car, though I could be wrong about that rear seal.
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01-24-2013, 10:44 AM
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GorillaFoot
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: largo, FL
Posts: 369
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The engine or the drive-shaft (oh, that's a fun job!!!) should be out with an RMS replacement. Either way, the two have to be separated quite a bit to get the RMS in properly. The leak might also be at the back of the seal between the block and crank carriage- same symptoms. The engine definitely needs to be out for that.
My engine job is just getting finished up. Once you start looking at all the worn parts, it's amazing these engines still run like they do. My mechanic was going to do a seal and bearing refresh. We ended up rebuilding the turbo, replacing the valves, valve guides, PISTONS (#1 was warped!), rings, bearings, seals.... It was a choice between an engine refresh and dropping in a GM LS engine. I'm pretty sure the costs are now about the same!
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1989 951 Track car. Cayman GT4. Suncoast PCA Chief Tech Inspector. |
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01-24-2013, 01:06 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 7
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Given the various jobs that need to be done, I am leaning more and more to just pull the engine. Goodness knows what else I will find. As I said, I am not a mechanic. I am beginning to think it would actually be easier to have the engine out of the car in order to get everything done.
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01-25-2013, 01:06 PM
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Pull the engine - not that much harder (relatively speaking) -- and gobs more of space/access
mike
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2015 Panamera Hybrid, 2008 Cayenne Twin Turbo 2001 996 GT2 1999 Spec Boxster, 1996 993 Cabriolet 1992 964 Cabirolet, 1975 911 RSR Replica Race Car |
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01-25-2013, 01:23 PM
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On Boost
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUS
Posts: 398
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pull the engine, it wasn't to hard IMO.
Clarks garage has a very good write up. follow it and you should be fine! a good tip is buy a box of 100 zip lock bags and put nuts and bolts that belong to one piece (eg starter motor) in the bag and label them and put them all in a box. Makes it easier to find when putting things back together.
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86 952 GTX3076R, M-Tune, eBoost 2, CEP/JME cam, CEP head. |
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01-26-2013, 04:34 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 7
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I am leaning more and more to pulling the engine. How many hours to do so in your estimation?
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01-26-2013, 07:13 AM
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On Boost
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUS
Posts: 398
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Quote:
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86 952 GTX3076R, M-Tune, eBoost 2, CEP/JME cam, CEP head. |
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01-26-2013, 03:16 PM
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Architecture & Porsche's
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,189
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I pulled a 951 engine on saturday, not too bad.
1. Drain all fluids. (I disconnected the oil cooler from the car & lowered it with the engine, with the hoses still attached to the engine) 2. remove radator fans, radiator, all front connecting water hoses. 3. disconnect fuel lines, throttle, all wiring to TPS, AFM, Temp 2, O2, crank trigger, cycling valve, etc. 4. remove heater hose connection, vacuum line to brake booster. Under car: 5. remove exhaust from downpipe so engine can lower. 6. remove starter & secure wires. 7. disconnect slave &let hang. 8. Remove sway bar. 9. remove steering rack, disconnect hoses, disconnect steering coupler, remove tie rod from one side only, then swing rack around on the other tie rod (to point forward in front of the front wheel, so as to dodge the engine coming out. 10. assuming nose of car is high up on jackstands: remove main a-arm bolts, remove rear a-arm bolt pairs, swing a-arms out of the way of engine. 11. Put jackstand & 2x10 or so under oil pan, centered as best you can. pump up to counter the engine's weight. 12. slowly pull the 4 bolts for the cross-member so engine is free. Pump jack to keep engine at same level. 13. Pull jack forward slowly to allow torque-tube shaft to slide out of clutch disc. 14. Lower engine onto ground & pull out from under car.
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Porsche Club Racing National Scrutineer '89 Andial 951 '82 928R '74 911 RSR 3.6 Last edited by MarkRobinson; 01-29-2013 at 01:16 PM.. |
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01-29-2013, 01:13 PM
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Registered User
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If you can't get the car high enough to drop it through the bottom, it can also come out through the top. It's harder and you'll want to take that front crank pulley off and brake master cylinder, but doable. With my last pull I actually left the crossmember connected to the car and exhaust still assembled. It's much easier to drop it though. Make sure to mark where the steering gear is in relation to the splines on the power steering pump. And DEFINITELY USE ZIPLOCK BAGS AND LABEL THEM WITH A SHARPIE! It will make putting it back together much less confusing.
I have an S2 so I don't have to deal with the turbo plumbing, I don't know if that makes any difference when pulling it. |
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01-29-2013, 01:32 PM
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