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911tracker85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Park Hills, KY
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good day yesterday.

as I used a very slight coat of locktight round the outer edge of the RMS / block, not sure I want to tap farther in and break whatever sealing has taken place. hope that and the level of inset will be good.

what I think you'all are trying to explain is if not in far enough, the leak will be from the outer edge and not the seal against the crank? and I suspect the culprit would be that little notch to pry out the old one.

new pilot bearing went in easy enough. positioned, tapped slightly to seat, then used a piece of wood to hammer in. rather than that PVC, could also have considered using the old bearing. you wrench and you learn.

today, bell housing goes on and we'll see how much farther I get.

here is the new dose of pics.









and OT, stumbled on a set of 78-79 long fin 930 calipers for that project. could not pass them up.

__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 01-24-2015, 06:36 AM
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In the Fires of Hell.....
 
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Make sure that the larger bore pistons in those brakes are in the same orientation as for your 951. Sometimes you have to flip the bleeders/tube around to make them correct for our cars.

I was not referring to the outer notch for the leak, it is all about making it aligned with the spinning of the crankshaft. If one area is in more than another, you will get oil seeping out.

I hope that with the spring shortening trick you used you don't have any issues. I have not tried that one before.

Good luck with the resortation/modifications.
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NASA/PCA Instructor
'88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost
1987 924S 944 SPEC racecar - '88 pistons/DME, short 5th
1987 944S - Restored salvage title, ready to live again
Old 01-24-2015, 05:52 PM
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well.... took a step backward this past weekend.


when I started to put on the bell housing, it just would not seat fully to the block. after rechecking everything, found the ground wire hanging down enough to obstruct it at the top.

so went about putting in the bell housing bolts below, then went up top to put in the top one.

first, when taking off the bell housing I had to pull the HCV hose off the block to get to the top bell housing bolt and the ground. could not figure out how to remove them without pulling out of the way. the Clarke's garage did not mention this during the tear down, but at the end of the installation procedure it does say you have to do this.

thought I had drained the coolant out enough during the tear down.

when I went to put in the top bolt I had to move the HCV around. a fair amount of coolant poured right down the TDC inspection hole.

pulled the clutch back out and sure enough, almost half the clutch disc was contaminated. it is at SPEC being resurfaced.

so heed the warnings. COVER THAT DAMN HOLE WHEN WORKING UP THERE. actually I had stuffed a piece of paper towel in to prevent bolts or other bits from falling in, but did not think about coolant and it went right through the paper.

so when I start reassembling again, thinking about putting some aluminum duct tape over that hole. should be able to take the heat, and only reason to remove would be to do timing belt or something affecting cam timing. engine has a new TB, balance belt, rollers, etc. so that will be a few years away. anyone have a better idea for covering that hole?

changing topics. when I pulled the crank and speed sensor, the speed sensor had some very slight scratches. very superficial. but wondered why as I had installed new ones and used the '0.8mm washer' technique to reset the clearances.

my guess is the teeth on the starter ring gear was able to sit into the gap in the center of the washer, so the clearance was actually too close. see pic below of the one I used to originally set the clearance. so it appears to be sure, you need to use a solid 0.8mm thick piece so the clearance with the teeth is correct.

so reset clearance using a proper feeler gauge from below with the bell housing off, then adjusted the pin on the flywheel to match.

so while waiting for the clutch disc to return, started installing the M030 sway bars.

__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 01-29-2015, 11:48 AM
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I don't recall reading if you've done the suspension bushings?
Old 02-07-2015, 12:10 AM
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currently only suspension work is putting on M030 front/rear sway bars, got a deal on them.

it looks like PO installed newer rear busings on the front lower control arm. has newer looking billstiens on the rear. otherwise it looks like the suspension is stock.

after putting in so much work and $$, a full suspension upgrade is planned for next winter.

want to get this done and ready for the DE in spring, then dig into my 930 project.
__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 02-07-2015, 05:24 AM
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well ..... did not realize I had not updated for a bit. felt compelled to update my warning post with retraction.

as I was installing the NEW clutch disc, decided to check out my speed senor clearance theory.

FAIL

here is a pic I took of the sensor with washer against the starter ring. the ring gear is wide enough that the teeth cannot fit into the washer gap.





so I must have set the clearance wrong. when setting with a feeler gauge with the bell housing off, had to try a couple times to keep the clearance were I wanted as I tightened the bracket bolts. hard to tell using the washer method if you put downward pressure on the bracket which may reduce the clearance from what you intended.



now for that damn hole ..... the hole I covered on the left is for that obsolete diagnostic sensor I removed.



not sure I want to post about yet another mistake I made and just discovered about setting clearance on these sensors in time to fix before I button up the bell housing.

I really appreciate all the post folks have made of their fubars. I only hope my posts of my mistakes will help someone else avoid the time and expense mine cost me.


so installing the NEW clutch disc and alum flywheel.

first adjusted the bracket to set the clearance on the speed sensor to the starter ring.

then adjust the pin on the new flywheel to the correct clearance on the crank sensor.

well....

as I was trying to put on the bell housing for what would have been the final fitting, it would not go. finally figured out the flywheel pin was set way too long and it would not clear the bell housing.

when putting in the sensors to set the clearance, I got them mixed. so without the washer on the speed sensor I actually set the bracket ~2mm to high.

what I suspected as the delta appeared to be exactly twice the thickness of that washer. but just finished looking at PET and the WSM ... AGAIN ... to confirm my bone head move. Ironically, I had actually looked it up in the WSM at the time, but still went and put them in reversed.

initially I had been able to put on the bell housing, as the pin was still up around the sensors. glad it ended up turned DOWN due to installing the new disc and PP.

so heed the warning to have the FLYWHEEL PIN FACING STRAIGHT DOWN when you put on the bell housing. when I saw that note in the procedure, I thought 'why'. now I know. that way you will know if it is too long. the lower area of the bell house has the least clearance to the flywheel.

I just cringe at the thought of having buttoned it all up with that pin too long. hit the starter and no telling what noise and damage the impact of the pin on the bell housing would have caused.

so having to replace that contaminated clutch disc sure was a blessing in disguise. sure the damage that extended pins would have caused would cost much more to fix and a lot more work.

once again, hope to save someone else from making the same mistakes I have.

today hope to finish buttoning up the bell housing and move forward on the rest.
__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 02-15-2015, 08:26 AM
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The car's looking real nice Bob. Don't let these things bring you down. This is how we learn. Keep at it.
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:49 AM
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due to some challenges in our life, been a couple weeks since I did any work.

finally got back yesterday. I did get the bell housing bolted/torqued on and the HCV reconnected without further spillage.

got a few new parts, and worked on them yesterday.

LR stage I intercooler upgrade
LR header panel with IC scoop
new short shift kit for Tranny. have a new shifter on order.

think I am going to need a helper to get the TT connected to the bell housing. so far a struggle to get back against the BH alone under the car. but no worries, I will prevail.











__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-01-2015, 06:46 AM
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Hi, I see that you have the tranny out, but can you install the shortshifter when its in? Mine will be installed next week.
Old 03-01-2015, 07:08 AM
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Put a jack under the engine and use it to rotate the engine longitudinally to get the TT and bell housing aligned. Once you have things aligned correctly it should go together pretty easily.
__________________
NASA/PCA Instructor
'88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost
1987 924S 944 SPEC racecar - '88 pistons/DME, short 5th
1987 944S - Restored salvage title, ready to live again
Old 03-01-2015, 12:44 PM
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smudo,
I think I recall in the notes for the short shift you can install in the car. but say you either need to cut off a wrench to just a few inches, or they sell one already cut off to get one of the bolts out. since my trans was out, decided to upgrade to what a friend did and loves.

my suspicion is you only need that short wrench to install the link from the shifter to the trans housing. if you keep the stock, rubber bushing part in place, may not have much trouble. but I suspect that linkage will add some firmness.

kdjones2000,
made progress, TT was hanging up on an axle shaft. now have the TT/shaft up to the point of not going into the pilot bearing. worked the jack under the engine up and down a bit, but so far no luck. off to attach it again.

starting to think of having someone depress the clutch pedal to release the clutch plate so I can wiggle around and get into the pilot bearing. I know the drive shaft is in the clutch plate splines.

got the pressure tubes and stuff reconnected to the upgraded IC.

__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-02-2015, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 911tracker85 View Post
smudo,
I think I recall in the notes for the short shift you can install in the car. but say you either need to cut off a wrench to just a few inches, or they sell one already cut off to get one of the bolts out. since my trans was out, decided to upgrade to what a friend did and loves.

my suspicion is you only need that short wrench to install the link from the shifter to the trans housing. if you keep the stock, rubber bushing part in place, may not have much trouble. but I suspect that linkage will add some firmness.
Thanks, we'll see how it goes. My car is in shop already since end of November. It was planned to have all the suspension upgrades during December but you often have surprises when working with older cars
Old 03-02-2015, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Put a jack under the engine and use it to rotate the engine longitudinally to get the TT and bell housing aligned. Once you have things aligned correctly it should go together pretty easily.
I did.

working alone with car on jack stands can be frustrating at times. kept crawling out, adjust the jack under the engine, try again ... repeat. I keep trying to tell myself it is GOOD EXERCISE for me. almost like going to the gym, but at least all that energy results in something tangible, other than sweaty / stinky clothes.

so laying there staring up at the TT / bellhousing, I realized I needed to adjust the height of the motor so the plane of the TT flange and that of the bell housing were parallel. got it adjusted to that and slipped right in.

so proceeded to lift the trans back up into place. got it against the TT bell housing and two bolts in place. then could see the alignment of the bolts to the trans mount were a little off.

so comparing a pic to that on LR web site. DANG ... put it together backward. the little machined area just looked so right for the stock part. but was for the bolt head.

in the process took a pick of the M030 rear sway bar.










__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-03-2015, 04:41 AM
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ITS ALIVE

after correcting the attachment of the trans mount, everything progressed smoothly.

fired it up and took for a drive this past weekend. running great.

changed the oil to the 2nd round of break in oil and started putting all the little interior pieces back in.

cant wait for putting on a couple hundred more miles and then will get to see what it can do. so far no WOT, no redline. but soon ... soon.

I will need to find and update my post asking for feedback on the SPEC stage III clutch and alum flywheel set up.

so far good. pedal effort not high, but probably more than stock. need to drive my bro's 944S again to compare. since it is new, if I try to take off real easy and low revs, get some shudder. if I give a little gas it engages smoothly. should get better after it gets broken in.
__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-18-2015, 05:18 AM
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Right on Bob,great job. Good to hear you got it back on the road and running.
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:30 PM
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don't recall now if I mentioned somewhere in this thread my tach does not work.

replaced the inst cluster and still no good, so conclusion is there is a problem with the wiring to the inst cluster. all other gauges work.

now I would LOVE to build a custom dash like you did Raymond. but opted for an easier solution.

so rather than frustrate myself further on that, just ordered this as an alternative to the stock tach. on the track, only concerned that I dont over rev. this is a progressive indicator. set the redline, then set two lower thresholds to start alerting, and when near redline. will set the redline value to just below the rev limiter.

hmm... need to contact Russel Berry who made my chips for what that is.

will mount this on the A pillar with the boost and AFR gauges.



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Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-19-2015, 05:55 AM
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Hey Bob if you don't mind spending a little extra,go with an msd ignition box with soft touch rev limiter and a good coil. The msd rev limiter is much better and safer for your motor. The msd 6al digital is a great ignition upgrade.
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Old 03-24-2015, 05:47 AM
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Raymond,

I installed a new MSD coil, but not the IGN system. in general I did not build this engine to the level it really needs that from what I have heard. but had not considered it provides a 'softer' rev limiter. will think about that for the next round of work this winter on the suspension upgrades.

it is back at the shop. trying to track down a couple rattles in the rear and pull the PS hose to have rebuilt due to leaking.

I did find one item I had not tightened down completely. the other rattle is from the new short shift kit. no rubber bushings and all ball joints, so when decelerating the vibration causes some rattle. but I really like the feel of it.

in addition to putting in the rebuilt PS hose, get to install this too. then new tires Monday and a track alignment, and put on some more break in miles and get ready for the DE April 24-25.

__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 03-26-2015, 09:56 AM
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well.....

making good progress. need to take pics of the dash/gauges/shifter.

I had a small, separate tach, got it installed in the dash just in front of the stock tach and working.

got the shift light installed, wires down into the console, but not fully connected yet. hopefully will do tomorrow.

not as impressive as Raymond's dash, but should work for me.

got the tires swapped and ready for the track. NT-01s, 17" 235/255 F/R. in the process noticed how worn the front, slotted rotors looked. just under 27mm, so ordered new ones and will install before the DE in a couple weeks. a friend talked me into trying Hawk Blue and I know they are very abrasive. depending on how they do on the track may go another way with pads.

car drives / tracks good, but will have alignment checked and adjusted to my specs as needed before the DE.

going to an autocross Sat to see how it does.

now with some break in miles and a tach, starting to push it harder. really pulls strong on stock boost. have not started playing with the adj boost. AFRs look good on boost.

have had on lift several times, and found/tightened a few items. but still get some rattle on decel that I am convinced is the short shift kit. when I reach up and wiggle, get a little clicking.

replaced the PS hose, but then found the PS pump also leaks, so replaced that to.

got the LR shifter installed too. I set it to reduce the throws, short and tight. love it

and from driving I have realized I am not comfortable rolling my foot onto the gas pedal to rev match without risking slipping off the brake pedal. so got this. sure it will lower my lap time and improve confidence.

__________________
Bob Cox
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - preferred DD
85 911 Targa, White Gold/brown int - retired from track.
86 944 turbo my new DE/track car.
78 930 clone project car.
Old 04-09-2015, 01:34 PM
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Good to hear car is running good. Doing the heal toe is not easy,not for me anyway. Every time I try it I feel like my hip joint is going to pop out. It takes practice to get that skill down. Let us know how it feels with new pedals.
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Old 04-12-2015, 04:44 AM
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