Pelican Parts
Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   Pelican Parts Forums > Porsche Forums > Porsche 944 Turbo and Turbo S


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average.
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Registered User
 
Turboman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Montoison FRANCE
Posts: 86
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to Turboman
Great idea, a 951 refined by experience and up dated with the last Porsche components.
I like the idea, what about using a 968 crank special pistons and 6 speeds gearbox, all on a normal 951 cloths.
Keep me posted.
Francisco
Old 03-18-2015, 05:59 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #81 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by nynor View Post
i hope the belts have been changed.
Timing belt looks good....at least of what we can see through the view port! Yes, have no record of belts being done recently so we'll have to tackle that very shortly.
Old 03-18-2015, 09:17 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #82 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
Tested the coil and found the issue

We knew we had a fresh, brand new battery but no spark. So attention turned to the coil and we tested it by removing a spark plug then disconnecting the coil wire from the distributor and finally grounding the plug to the engine with a set of jumper cables. We turned the ignition to the ON position, then momentarily jumped the battery negative to the green wire on the coil. The result was no spark from the plug. So we replaced the coil with a fresh unit and can finally fire-up our 951!



Here's the detailed article complete with pictures:
944 Turbo Coil Testing

Thank you everyone for your troubleshooting suggestions! Now that we've cleared that hurdle, what are DIY projects you'd like to see us tackle on the Porsche?
Old 03-19-2015, 11:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #83 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
Tech Articles published for Fuel System checks!

Now that we've completed troubleshooting the no start issue, I wanted to circle back and provide complete how-to articles for the following items:

944 Turbo Fuel System Pressure Test

944 Turbo Fuel Flow Delivery Test

944 Turbo Fuel Injectors Replacement

Old 03-19-2015, 11:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #84 (permalink)
In the Fires of Hell.....
 
kdjones2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,933
Garage
Since you asked Mark.

Here are a few that I have done already. Feel free to redo them and document them further:

Get your alarm working again:
Rekeying Factory Alarm Switch - Pics!

What it takes to install the 10 speaker option into your late (87+) car:
10 Speaker Sytem - Anyone have pics?`

Oil pickup tube reinforcement/oil pan baffle:
Oil Pickup Tube Porn :)

How to fix your climate control on late NA's and all Turbos:
Fixing up the climate control head

How to wire in a set of Euro Fogs:
Euro Foglight Conversion

Connecting rod bearings/oil pan gasket:
PS, Connecting Rods and other stuff - A log

How to put a disable switch in your car for the airbags. Why you ask? Well you will have to read it find out...
Ugh, Airbags....

How to open up your hood when your cable has slipped/broken:
Help Needed: Picture of hood release for Stock Turbo

Split Rear seat upgrade: (Thank you Imageshack for barfing all over my pictures)
Split Rear Seat Upgrade (M335)

Convert your '86 to a Turbo-S!:
M758 Upgrade

M030 Upgrade, with torsion bar reindexing

Add some racing pedals:
Rennline pedal installation - Pics!

Other ideas:
1) Rebuild your ball joints/control arms.

2) Vacuum line/hose reseal.

3) Clean/repack your CV joints.

4) Parking brake shoes replacement/adjustment.

5) Odometer gear replacement.

6) Side mirror housing uninstall/reinstall the proper way (by not cutting the wiring).

7) Sunroof gear replacement / microswitch adjustment.

8) ICV cleaning / reseal.

9) Clean / fix your Cruise Control.

10) Drain and replace your transaxle fluid.

11) Do your clutch.

12) Shim your wastegate.

13) Do your Front of Engine reseal / water pump.

14) Reseal your oil cooler adapter.

Is that enough for now?
__________________
NASA/PCA Instructor
'88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost
1987 924S 944 SPEC racecar - '88 pistons/DME, short 5th
1987 944S - Restored salvage title, ready to live again

Last edited by kdjones2000; 03-19-2015 at 03:01 PM..
Old 03-19-2015, 01:12 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #85 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Burnaby, BC Canada
Posts: 51
If you really wanted to check the condition of the engine a compression test is not the best way to go. By doing a leak down test you find how the top end and bottom end are doing helping to diagnose any potential problems and correctly focus on where it may lay.
Since all 4 cyliders where within 10% of each other that is okay but what is the compression of a new motor versus the 150 you got from your tests?
Old 03-20-2015, 10:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #86 (permalink)
 
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdjones2000 View Post
Other ideas:
1) Rebuild your ball joints/control arms.

2) Vacuum line/hose reseal.

3) Clean/repack your CV joints.

4) Parking brake shoes replacement/adjustment.

5) Odometer gear replacement.

6) Side mirror housing uninstall/reinstall the proper way (by not cutting the wiring).

7) Sunroof gear replacement / microswitch adjustment.

8) ICV cleaning / reseal.

9) Clean / fix your Cruise Control.

10) Drain and replace your transaxle fluid.

11) Do your clutch.

12) Shim your wastegate.

13) Do your Front of Engine reseal / water pump.

14) Reseal your oil cooler adapter.

Is that enough for now?
These are great suggestions! We're going to attack the water pump so that will be up next. I didn't see cruise control on our car. Let me take another look.
Old 03-23-2015, 01:42 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #87 (permalink)
winter-hater club member
 
nynor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: salt lake city, utah
Posts: 24,707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark at Pelican Parts View Post
These are great suggestions! We're going to attack the water pump so that will be up next. I didn't see cruise control on our car. Let me take another look.
i don't see cruise control in that engine bay.
__________________
2000 Corvette - ????, 2007 Buell XB9R - Astrid, 1996 Discovery - Piglet, 2000 Forester

"COOL PRIUS!" - Nobody Ever
Old 03-23-2015, 01:51 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #88 (permalink)
In the Fires of Hell.....
 
kdjones2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,933
Garage
Agreed that this car doesn't have cruise control. I thought that all Turbo cars came with CC, but I guess that is incorrect, or a PO removed it.

Make sure to do the WYAIT items along with the water pump. These include the thermostats (2), balance shaft and oil pump/crankshaft seals, as well as all of those stupid coolant rubber hoses. It's also a good time to do the oil cooler seals as well, maybe even a power steering pump rebuild.
__________________
NASA/PCA Instructor
'88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost
1987 924S 944 SPEC racecar - '88 pistons/DME, short 5th
1987 944S - Restored salvage title, ready to live again

Last edited by kdjones2000; 03-23-2015 at 07:00 PM..
Old 03-23-2015, 06:20 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #89 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
Getting to the Water Pump....

Diving back into the engine, we're going after the water pump.

kdjones2000: great suggestions as far as WYAIT items, especially the seals.

After draining the coolant below the water pump level (we'll probably just flush the system after all), we removed the timing and balance shaft belts in addition to the associated pulleys. Then we removed the plastic cover.



Removed the clamps and hoses for the two thermostats:



Then removed the heater hose clamp:



Then removed the three water pump fasteners using a 10mm socket:



And finally, pump removal!



Let's see what we can do about the while you're already in there items.
Old 03-25-2015, 05:29 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #90 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 14
Great thread guys.

Pictures are awesome!

Please keep up the good work!!
Old 03-25-2015, 07:36 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #91 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Turboman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Montoison FRANCE
Posts: 86
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to Turboman
Fantastic, thanks for the photos. Keep going.
Old 03-26-2015, 01:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #92 (permalink)
Registered User
 
motorscuba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 126
Garage
Looking forward to this 951 rehab!! Thanks for including us.
__________________
1987 Porsche 944 Turbo-Guards Red
2001 Kawasaki ZX-12R-Neon Green
1986 Kawasaki 1000R-Red
Former Porsche-
1987 Porsche 944-Black
Old 03-27-2015, 02:30 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #93 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
Throughout the early stages we did some basic stuff. Here is a write-up we did for the starter with complete steps & pics:
944 Turbo Starter Replacement





Old 03-27-2015, 03:45 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #94 (permalink)
winter-hater club member
 
nynor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: salt lake city, utah
Posts: 24,707
huh. my starter doesn't have the heat shield. i didn't know it was supposed to have one.
__________________
2000 Corvette - ????, 2007 Buell XB9R - Astrid, 1996 Discovery - Piglet, 2000 Forester

"COOL PRIUS!" - Nobody Ever
Old 03-27-2015, 03:55 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #95 (permalink)
In the Fires of Hell.....
 
kdjones2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,933
Garage
That heat shield is not the OEM one. The OEM one attaches to the 2 bolts that hold the flywheel cover plate to the bell housing, not that 19mm starter bolt.

But yes, you are supposed to have one, Nynor.
__________________
NASA/PCA Instructor
'88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost
1987 924S 944 SPEC racecar - '88 pistons/DME, short 5th
1987 944S - Restored salvage title, ready to live again
Old 03-27-2015, 05:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #96 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Jimmy76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Hungary
Posts: 7
Garage
Thats amazing.
I have a '85 951 in my garage waiting for some care.
I've bought it 2 years ago driven 1500kms back to home
and left it untouched so far. Project will start in April-May.
My goal is original state and maybe an oldtimer record next year.
I'm writing from Hungary where the DME relay was made.

So I'm interested in everything.
From water draining - filling to belt change, water pump, oil.
Power steering seals, oil change.
Interior repairs. Removing back seat.

Thumbs up!
Old 03-28-2015, 04:29 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #97 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
Welcome to the Pelican forum Jimmy76!

Thank you for your suggestions - perfect!
Old 04-03-2015, 09:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #98 (permalink)
 
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
Ignition Wires, Rotor & Cap

Checking these items as they break down over time, especially the rotor and distributor cap.

Here's the layout of the spark plug wires coming from between the intake runners then on over to the distributor which is mounted to the front of the head (red arrow):


It's a lot easier to remove the turbo pipe to gain access to the #1 spark plug:


No need for a special tool to remove covers if you take your time, are gentle and pull from the cover, not the wire:


Make sure to number both wires and distributor to eliminate confusion:


The distributor cap is held in place by two screws with springs behind them. You will need a stubby or short flathead screwdriver to remove the bottom screw. Insert the screwdriver into the top screw, push in and turn 90 degrees clockwise. Move to the bottom screw and repeat only turning the screw 270 degrees clockwise. If you have done it properly the screws will pop out from the cap (red arrow):


The cap will now slide off. This photo shows the hooks on the back of the spring screws (red arrow) and where they mount in the head cover plate (yellow arrow):


We removed the set screw then the rotor pulled straight off. There is a shield behind the rotor that must be installed. This shield or cap is an important part of the system and if it is damaged it must be replaced (red arrow). The locating screw hole in the cam insures that the rotor can only be installed in the proper place (red arrow). Installation is the reverse of removal:


For the entire step-by-step, click article below:
944 Turbo Ignition Wires, Rotor & Cap Replacement
Old 04-03-2015, 11:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #99 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 704
Garage
One of the most popular...Timing Belt Replacement

Just as several of you have already mentioned as a trouble area which could cause all sorts of headache, we've tackled the Timing Belt and here are a few of those steps!

The balance of the how-to article may be found here:
944 Turbo Timing Belt Replacement

Here's a good shot of what the set-up looks like with the balance shaft belt already removed:


Brace the tensioner with a 24mm wrench (red arrow) and remove the 17mm nut (yellow arrow). Failure to counter torque the tensioner will result in too much force on it, which can lead to diminished life expectancy of the tensioner:


After removing the idler pulley and guide plate (skipping a couple of steps - see them in the how-to article), inspect the guide plate for excessive wear.

When installing the belt, make sure that the engine is set at TDC and that the mark on the cam pulley (red arrow) lines up with the mark on the cam housing (yellow arrow). It is important that these do not move during installation or tensioning:


Set the tension on the belt until it is tight enough that you can twist the belt half way between the cam and crankshaft pulley (red arrow) 90 degrees with your thumb and forefinger:


Once everything is tightened and you have checked for alignment of the sprockets, remove the flywheel lock and turn the engine two complete rotations. Then check to make sure that the TDC and cam markings line up. Rotate the engine counter clockwise 10 degrees or one and a half teeth on the cam gear. Check the belt tension using Porsche special tool 9201. Pull the lock pin on the tool to release the tension roller. Align the drag needle with the gauge needle. Install the tool on the long section of the cam belt between the cam sprocket and the cam belt idler roller. Make sure that the tool's tensioning roller is on the toothed side of the belt. With the timing belt tool installed, the gauge on the tool will be upside down and the flat bars on the tool that slide between the timing belt and the timing belt cover will be a snug fit. Push the tensioning roller against the cam belt until the locking pin on the tool engages. The tension on a new belt should be 4.0 +/- 0.3. If you are reinstalling a used belt, it should be 2.7 +/- 0.3. Installation is the reverse of removal:


What are some helpful tips you recall from your timing belt replacement experience?
Old 04-07-2015, 06:24 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #100 (permalink)
Reply

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:53 PM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.