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How to relocate 951 air meter & elbow cone?
Look at this mod. Looks simple. Can someone show this under the hood ? Seems like stock IC boost pipe would need to be hacked up like the old Lindsey setup because the Bosch meter here is where the bypass valve would be normally.
Point is to keep the cone from melting behind the radiator where it heat sinks in my states climate. Even inside the stock box the filter is cooking, yet behind both headlights area is rather cool. Miss that config with my old MAF, didn't like the tune on that MAF. I don't want to buy another MAF and i polished my stock AFM & stock pipes, 993 bv, polished cam and stock manifold.
Last edited by vanosman; 06-02-2015 at 12:21 AM.. Reason: photo |
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Well, you can replace the rubber J-pipe with custom metal pipe that puts your AFM near the strut-tower like a MAF kit. Then the filter goes behind the headlight.
Of course, you do realize that the AFM itself is 27x more restrictive than the factory air-cleaner right? The major restriction is still there and you're not getting any additional flow over stock. Also for best flow, you want maximum smoothness on the inside. So transition from filter to pipe to AFM to pipe, etc, should have minimal steps and changes in ID. So that pipe that connects the filter to AFM should be configured so it butts up right against the AFM to remove two steps. Hose on outside should only be 1/2" long to hold the two pieces together, but shouldn't participate in the flow. Last edited by DannoXYZ; 06-02-2015 at 12:30 AM.. |
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Bosch Air Meter is just too fat, even for MAF IC pipes, would need to zig zag weld the pipe or find a mandrel pipe bender
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It's been done. Best to use stainless tubing for minimal step and interruption of flow at the connections. Conical-shaped to flow from AFM to turbo-inlet without rapid ID changes.
The trick with the AFM is to lay it vertically against the coolant-tank/strut-tower. Bottom faces the coolant-tank. Then you need to make a conical J-pipe like this: ![]() The end fitting the turbo-inlet has the exact same ID as the turbo for no steps and interruption of flow. All that is needed is a short 1/2" hose to attach. Same with the other end connecting to the AFM. Then another elbow to go from AFM to filter. |
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Broadfoot AFM relocated
![]() ![]()
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Stock Config
i may throw the factory box on with my factory polished AFM & hard pipes & manifold & cam.
Last edited by vanosman; 06-03-2015 at 03:54 AM.. Reason: the is the 951 Cup config with shimmed WG & cup chips +300ft lb |
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Cup race car had this but with magnesium manifold and magnesium cup 16"
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Interesting to put AFM after the turbo & intercooler. Wonder if that changes the calibration.
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vanosman,
on that first version, do you just vent the blow off valve to atmosphere? I have considered getting a MAF just to relocate so I can put exit air vents in the hood just above where the stock air box sit to pull hot air out. did not think it possible to do with stock AFM, but the build level of my engine (~300 whp) does not really need a MAF. and I have already spend quite a bit on this build. need money for the build of my 78 930.
__________________
Bob Cox 78 930 clone project car. 87 924S resurrect at some point. 84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - sold ![]() 86 944 turbo my new DE/track car - sold
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968 RS Turbo had a nice hood vent and intake. John Millage had a really cool looking CF manifold he said adds instant 30ft lbs of TOKE to a ported '89 951 with pipes and prevents puddling.
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CF don't hold up to heat over time it cracks like the glossed and protected coated aftermarket hoods that look like crap after 4yrs, i did a 3D semi gloss CF vinyl wrap myself for $50 Ebay and it looks like new with some cheap armor all wiped across it, needs bunch of 3M stick applied to the dual creases on hood and be sure to wrap around 2" under hood and 3M that then trim what will curl at peel under. 4D air release wrap would be replacing the last 3D gen wrap. Looks great for a sticker and it protects paint from bird droppings which just wipe away with hard water spots. Hood is biggest pain to detail, then the roof, then the top wide rear flares & rear turbo S2 valence and front nose & backside. It's as EZ to clean as the 951 rubber lip spoiler which i may just pass on the S2 968 hoop for that reason and it's a better beer coaster than any i have ever seen on any car EVER including 928GTS (Functionally for alcoholics aka engineering ART)
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Epoxy resin won't go bad like polyester resin. Also if you use high CF to resin ratio (Trek OCLV), it will be quite heat resistant.
Another idea is to have airbox sealed to bonnet. Then have a duct/scoop direct cold air in. |
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