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Autocross/Hillclimbs
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Wilsonville OR
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I feel dumb. I didn't take many lol. I swear I had some of it mounted but I can't find them. There was plenty of space under the intake manifold, even with the oil drain adapter. Everything lined up great. I had to bend/tilt the oil line down a little bit to line up. The rest basically was the same as the 6262.
There would be room with stock alternator. That's the Nissan quest alternator though. I did that while I was in there.
I really dread initial startup. Nerve wracking.
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:06 PM
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Yeah, I would have liked to see it before everything else went on top but good to hear that it's not too snug down there. When's the fire up?
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Old 02-26-2016, 08:16 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
Autocross/Hillclimbs
 
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hoping sunday. not much to do to get it together.
ill see if i can get a few pictures with the intake piping off at least
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Old 02-26-2016, 08:29 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX-944 View Post
also, the current boost control solenoid(s) I haven't looked much into, but there are two, so 4 wires. Im not sure why...
but the one built onto the EFR only has 2. so I need to look into how that's going to work out.
Did you figure this out?

Dual solenoids connected inverted is the only way a dual-port wastegate actually has more clamping-pressure than single-port. One solenoid pushes it open with ON signal. The other pushes it closed + spring-pressure on OFF signal. If you trace the wires of the solenoids to the Wolf, you'll find that they both connect to the same two wires on the ECU. The wires may be reversed for one of the solenoids.

To pre-oil the turbo, you can reach in and spin the compressor wheel by hand to help pull more oil through.

Three-month old gas is fine. I had one car that sat for a year waiting for engine-builder to deliver (swore to do all my own engine-building after that). Got it just 4-days before the '03 Open Track Challenge. I stayed up three days in a row installing it. Fired right up on 1st crank!
Old 02-27-2016, 10:59 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #44 (permalink)
Autocross/Hillclimbs
 
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I'm almost to the shop to get it finished.

I actually plugged the port for the boost control solenoid on the turbo and removed it, staying with the current setup.
The only extra feature I'm using that came on the turbo is the recirc valve
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:04 AM
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Ah, simpler that way, eh? Might want to adjust the push-rod for the wastegate to minimum-length so it pulls the wastegate-valve closed. No boost-creep in the upper-RPMs allowed. Some people even weld the wastgate-valve shut. Then use external-wastegate to manage boost.

This is getting exciting!!!
Old 02-28-2016, 07:15 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #46 (permalink)
 
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Autocross/Hillclimbs
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
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actually the one i got does not have a wastegate on it. the wastegate actuater rod would go right through the oil drain/pedestal, no way around it. so i got the EWG version.

i got her fired up today!! at first it was running really rough.. confusingly so. but apparently an intake manifold with 4 runners doesnt do well on 3 gaskets.... i have NO idea how i managed to miss one of the gaskets. they were stuck in place so i didnt have to worry much about them. apparently one wasnt stuck... ha!

so after taking care of that, and a fuel leak or 3, all is good. running really rich, which is fine for now.

my one concern - as i was pulling onto the trailer, it backfired once. now its leaking from one of the v band flanges. that scares me because they are not accessible, and im not sure what im going to do now.

some random pictures - dont worry, that bolt got put in place!
you can see the quest alternator clearance to the internal recirc valve. i used a piece of hose and a circlip to protect the large positive post on the alternator
oil feed line had to be bent down about a quarter inch, fits great














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Last edited by PDX-944; 02-28-2016 at 08:59 PM..
Old 02-28-2016, 08:48 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #47 (permalink)
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oh boy. going to the tuners next Wednesday (not this Wednesday). that following sat and sunday are our first events. cutting it a LITTLE close
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:41 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #48 (permalink)
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Dang, that thing is stuffed in there! Tight squeeze for sure.
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Old 02-29-2016, 06:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #49 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by running_cold924 View Post
Dang, that thing is stuffed in there! Tight squeeze for sure.
and its even smaller than what was in there. lol
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:49 PM
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Congratulations so far! Look forward to what you see at the dyno. Not so much peak numbers (although they're always fun) but how you get there. :-)
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:21 PM
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Autocross/Hillclimbs
 
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im really bummed about the backfire and leaking v band. those are not in a fun place to get to.
I don't think its the inlet, because that ones lipped to fit up snug. the outlet could be the issue, but also just below the rack is a 3rd v band to make downpipe removal easier, and im hoping its that one because I can actually access that one.
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:16 AM
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Any follow up on your possible leak?
Old 03-07-2016, 08:36 AM
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Autocross/Hillclimbs
 
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well, i found the leak, at the downpipe flange. with the little throttle cable bracket removed I could get my hand in and tighten it down. I could see a little spatter from rich exhaust on it form, and after tightening it that stopped. its hard to confirm no leaks because those injectors tick so loudly, but I think its good now
dropped the car off at the tuner, gonna be about a $950 bill. hes gonna replace one intake pipe to get rid of the BOV bung.
it has no cat so im not sure he will be able to get it through emissions, but I can trailer it for now until I can put a cat on for emissions if not
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:01 PM
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Have him add $1 to that bill ...
Old 03-09-2016, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Have him add $1 to that bill ...
ha! I hadn't event thought of that 951$
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Old 03-09-2016, 12:12 PM
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Spent the evening at the tuner.
one exhaust leak and one coolant leak later, we settled on 16psi. That put me at 307whp, and 322tq, which kicked in at 3000rpm. a nice curve.





he didnt like what he saw at 18psi without doing some in depth work, and the bill was already pretty high, so he recommended leave it for now, and i agreed. our first events are saturday and sunday. that should give me a good idea about how it feels, and i can take it back at a later date if i want more.
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:20 PM
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and heres with a non-heat soaked car



with 17% loss that's 376hp, 411tq at the crank. Not too shabby!

also got the 315s on the rear, and the 295s on the front today. haven't had time to really test them out

oh by the way, my bill didn't end up $950, or $951.... it ended up $968. no joke!
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Last edited by PDX-944; 03-11-2016 at 02:53 PM..
Old 03-11-2016, 02:20 PM
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Hi, nice results. How does this turbo compare to the standard KKK K26/8 (cold side, & hot side wheel size)? I am going to install standalone ECU and modify my K26/6 and the plan is to get close to 300 whp on pump fuel.
Old 03-11-2016, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smudo View Post
Hi, nice results. How does this turbo compare to the standard KKK K26/8 (cold side, & hot side wheel size)? I am going to install standalone ECU and modify my K26/6 and the plan is to get close to 300 whp on pump fuel.
You may reconsider..
How much HP can K26/6 max out? - Rennlist Discussion Forums

Standalone is NOT cheap, and street ask the work and running you go through, I would hate to see the turbo be your limiting factor. It's old technology, old design. There are much easier ways to see 300. The k26/7 from the turbo S wasnt that far off already, and can easily get there. Or there's the Lindsey kit.
If youre going to spend several thousand on stand alone ems, and 1000+ on a raw tune, why cheap out on the turbo? I knew I was going to spend a lot, so I figured I would do it right the first time and spend less in the long run.

Copy and paste specs:

K26/6:
Compressor housing :
ID intake 1-13/16"
OD intake 2"
OD outlet 2"

Compressor wheel :
Inducer dim. 1-3/4" (44mm)
Major dim : 2-9/16" (64mm)
= 46.63 trim

Turbine housing :
Inlet ID 1-15/16"
Outler ID 1-7/8"
6cm2 = 0.366 cu in A/R

Turbine wheel :
Exducer dim 2-7/16" ( 54mm)
Major dim. 1-7/8" (48mm)
= 59.17 trim
------------

My choice of Borg Warner EFR6258:
Compressor Type: Forged-Milled Wheel (FMW) Extended Tip
Compressor Wheel OD (exducer): 62mm
Compressor Wheel Inducer: 49.6mm
Max Flow Rate: 44 lb/min
Built-in BOV: All EFR compressor housings incorporate an integrated BOV.
Compressor Housing: 2.5" inlet, 2.0" hose coupler outlet.

Turbine type: Low Inertia Gamma-Ti Turbine Wheel
Turbine Wheel OD: 58mm
Stainless Steel Turbine Housing
0.85 A/R v-band Housing (external WG)
Turbine outlet: GT-Vband (aka small 3" vband) ~92mm OD
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http://www.bcautosports.club

Last edited by PDX-944; 03-11-2016 at 11:45 PM..
Old 03-11-2016, 11:36 PM
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