Leaking Oil Line

[Lawrence Coppari]

I have an '86 turbo that has a leaking oil line. It is the rubber line that connects to the hard line that attaches to the top of the oil cooler. After learning what the rubber line costs I am investigating other alternatives. What about braided lines? What would be the fitting size?

[kdjones2000]

I just bought new ones from the dealer, but many have taken theirs to a hydraulic shop and they have remade them.

[Lawrence Coppari]

Originally Posted by kdjones2000

I just bought new ones from the dealer, but many have taken theirs to a hydraulic shop and they have remade them.

Can hydraulic shops provide a rubber that can withstand the high temperatures. Also, do the headers have to come off in order to do the job? Thanks.

[DannoXYZ]

Hose shops can do better than OEM. Tell them what it's for and they have large selection available.

Earl's Ultra-flex 650 hose has a temp-rating of 510F, about twice most others and certainly higher than the original.
Aeroquip 2807 is also good with 500F rating.

[Lawrence Coppari]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Hose shops can do better than OEM. Tell them what it's for and they have large selection available.

Earl's Ultra-flex 650 hose has a temp-rating of 510F, about twice most others and certainly higher than the original.
Aeroquip 2807 is also good with 500F rating.

Thanks for info. What is the easiest way to remove the line? Should I remove the nuts/studs from the bellows header and go from above or should I remove power steering pump and go from under the car? I have the vehicle on a lift.

BTW, didn't I purchase a waste gate from you a few years ago. It's still in use along with the boost adjustment valve.

[DannoXYZ]

Ah yes, I think you got one of my last factory wastegates with upgraded spring.

I think you may be able to get the hose off by removing the heat-shield below the header and the oil-pressure sender. I use 1/4" drive socket with extensions and and wobbles to reach heat-shield bolts. Maybe also unbolt power-steering pump and let it hang. Then you may be able to get hoses off.

If still too tight and you don't want to remove header, you can remove the oil-cooling housing. Then you'll have plenty of access to those hoses.

[v2rocket_aka944]

Hydraulic shops have hose material in stock that is made for 3000+ psi and very high temperatures...it will handle your oil cooler no problem

You will probably get out the door for $100 or so. When I've gone to have hoses made (I had my local hose shop make me new oil cooler, fuel pump, and all AC hoses) it's usually 30 minutes or less too...If the shop tech guy is careful he can just cut off the original crimp and re-use the factory fittings with a new ferrule.

[Lawrence Coppari]

Originally Posted by v2rocket_aka944

Hydraulic shops have hose material in stock that is made for 3000+ psi and very high temperatures...it will handle your oil cooler no problem

You will probably get out the door for $100 or so. When I've gone to have hoses made (I had my local hose shop make me new oil cooler, fuel pump, and all AC hoses) it's usually 30 minutes or less too...If the shop tech guy is careful he can just cut off the original crimp and re-use the factory fittings with a new ferrule.

Thanks for info. Today I removed #2-3 header and slid #1-4 over away from the nut that attaches the hose to its mount. I've had enough fun for one day so I'll deal with the hose nuts tomorrow. It is easily accessible with one header off and the other moved over. I am an older chap so a few hours of effort is enough 'fun' for one day for me. I used to track this vehicle quite a lot years ago and I have a secondary oil cooler on it so I know the other joint will be no problem to loosen because I installed the second cooler.

I have what is necessary to remove the original crimps so the original fittings will be reused.

[951and944S]

Originally Posted by v2rocket_aka944

.If the shop tech guy is careful he can just cut off the original crimp and re-use the factory fittings with a new ferrule.

Which is what OP should request.

I run those lines all the way to and from a front mounted race cooler.

To simplify engine R&R, about half distance, I hang them from a rubber coated (dipped) custom bracket with male/female disconnect.

When I went to pick up first set attempt per my instructions, I noticed that inner diameter of the 90s they used at my cooler end were one size smaller than my originals.....enough that it worried me that there would be a flow bottleneck.

OP - be careful there and make sure they either a) reuse your ends, b) use at least the same inside diameter fittings.

I use a custom made crowfoot wrench made from a 12 point box end wrench with a slot cut out to pass over metal fitting tube. Header removal not necessary.

T

[Lawrence Coppari]

I had the hose made locally for a reasonable price ($84 + tax) even though they did not reuse my fittings. It took them about 5 minutes to make the hose. Their crimp looks quite different from the original crimps. Their hose is quite stiff and is rated for 250 bar (3500 psi) which is considerable overkill but that's what they had in my internal diameter. But it is all back together now and no longer puking out motor oil.

A 32 mm crow's foot would have been helpful.

[v2rocket_aka944]

$84 and 5 minutes aint too bad...
lots of frustration with the installation but its over now!