Engine compartment insulation retainer / cable ties (?)

[Jascha]

I decided to remove and replace the sagging / aging engine compartment sound insulation pad. Managed to remove the assortment of retainers but the cable harness that is running across the top is held by an unfamiliar cable tie clamp…was not able to identify it or know for sure how to reversibly remove / reuse it (?)

As a side, any and all suggestions on installation (to glue or not to glue) of the Porsche branded pad, which is basically painted on one side lightweight foam substitute.

[wesleyc]

I did the pad removal and replaced it with the foil lightweight pad from our host when I did an engine out service. Messy tedious job. I would suggest you check out the “ Porsche pad keeper”. It’s clean and easy to do.

[Jascha]

Originally Posted by wesleyc

I did the pad removal and replaced it with the foil lightweight pad from our host when I did an engine out service. Messy tedious job. I would suggest you check out the “ Porsche pad keeper”. It’s clean and easy to do.

You said it… made the irreversible replacement plunge —was in worse shape so I yanked it out in pieces but did not make provision for the pictured wire cable stud tie remounting. I’m doing this inside the engine bay (cave) while the intake on both sides is out (replacing gaskets, manifolds and sleeves)

[wesleyc]

Originally Posted by Jascha

You said it… made the irreversible replacement plunge —was in worse shape so I yanked it out in pieces but did not make provision for the pictured wire cable stud tie remounting. I’m doing this inside the engine bay (cave) while the intake on both sides is out (replacing gaskets, manifolds and sleeves)

Well you’re committed now. 😳

[Jascha]

It proved to be basically an adjustable (stud-mounting feature) looping harness / cable tie (999.513.049.40).

Have any of you replaced the sound insulation pad without resorting to spraying the entire back surface using the rather messy 3M-trim adhesive -just using the threaded 10-stud circular clip retainers..?

[Cobalt]

If you lower the engine slightly you can install the pad although having the engine out is easier. I found you need to use the adhesive to have it sit properly. If you lay the pad inside as it would mount and then spray both surfaces it is doable without making a mess.

[Jascha]

I used no glue but had the advantage of removed right-side air box and left-side heater pump and duct work that was part of the entire intake manifold and fuel-injector replacement much ado…

It is entirely possible to rely on the existing protruding (10-12 threaded) studs as securing points to enable the bracing of the new OE pad (reusing or getting a new set of 10+ button-like plastic caps) to the engine upper and back-wall surfaces. Over-time, if / when the pad starts sagging might need to use the 3M adhesive to provide added bracing.