993 Howto: 60K CV joint servicing

[craig001]

Good write up! I have done this on earlier cars I have owned, but never one of my p-cars. The way I looked at it, I had a shop just replace the whole half shaft. The guy found a great deal on some and after running the numbers it was just a little more expensive and I had new CV's all round.

[Vandit]

I need some advice as i've got the car in piece in the garage right now.

I've removed the axle on the inboard side, removed the outboard nut, got the axle nearly pulled out, but it's hitting up against the rear shock and not letting me pull the assembly out of the hub.

This is on a 964.

Do I have to undo the shock from the trailing arm in order to pull the axle out?

[Rick Lee]

You shouldn't have to undo the shock. Get a floor jack and put it either underneath the brake rotor or the lower shock bolt and then raise it to get the clearance you need. If you have to undo the shock bolt, you'll need the jack underneath it anyway. I've only done this on my 993, but both times I was able to do it without undoing the shock bolts.

[Vandit]

Thanks! I was actually able to get it out w/ a good bit of persuasion and back and forth between the shock and the ebrake cable. We'll see how easy it is to get it back in. I'm doing pass. side at the moment. I still need to do the driver's side, but I'm doing one side at a time.

[Vandit]

Any advice for getting the boots back onto the joint? I am in the process of reassembly, put the supplied grease in the joint, but now can't get the damn boot over the joint. Half the grease I put in there is now on my damn hands instead of the joint. Help!

[Vandit]

Any advice, really. I gave up on it last night. I was making zero progress on getting it inserted.

[Rick Lee]

The boot shouldn't go over the joint. It goes on the lip and then you snug the band on it. If you can post photos, that'd be better. I had no problem sliding the boots onto the shaft. You, of course, do this BEFORE you put the joint back onto the inbound end.

[Vandit]

I'm working on the outbound boot at the moment. I cannot stretch the boot over the lip on the joint.

I removed the axle, removed the inbound joint, removed all old boots, cleaned out both joints, inserted new boots & clips, reattached the inbound joint, then I started on the outbound joint by fillin it w/ grease, slid down the boot to the outbound, then BAM, can't get the damn boot over the lip/flange, grease everywhere as I struggle to slip the boot over the flange to no avail.

[Rick Lee]

I had no problem with that. I hope you have the right size.

[Vandit]

Hmmmph... I hope so too. Will confirm part numbers when I get home. Got these from Pelican.

Are they suppose to slide over pretty easily?

[cgfen]

great thread Cowtown
I'll use is as a guide when i do this on my Subie Outback, hey, it's a flat 6 too............

[Vandit]

I just tried it again for another 20 mins and once again, bunch of grease everywhere and the boot no where closer to being installed.

Pics.

















Ultimate failure. The frustration i'm feeling right now is just out of control...

[Rick Lee]

I don't know what to say. Where do you live?

[Vandit]

Dfw

[Rick Lee]

Get it all cleaned up, get those clamp bands off of there and try to use the stickiness of the rubber to keep it on one part of the joint lip as you get it around the rest of the lip. If you use a tool, be sure not to tear the boot. Clamp bands are the very last thing you put on there.

[Vandit]

Went back out there and did another round and great success!



Is there a secret to getting the included clamps (pictured) tight, or do they not have to be tight? The way they're on there right now, they're just sitting closed, not putting much, if any, pressure on the boot.

Also, those teeth on the end of the axle, i'm assuming those drive some type of speed sensor at the wheel? Notice how some of the black paint has chipped off mine. Is that going to cause a problem? Should I address that?

[MDamen]

I did this job tonight on one side. Took me three hours to change the inner and outer boots without removing the shaft and without servicing the CV joints. To get the clamps tight you have to squeeze the little part that sticks up. I'm sure there is a special tool for this. I used some vice grips to squeeze it. I'm going to try and find some nipper pliers when I do the other side. This is a messy job even without servicing the CVs. that grease gets on everything.

[tom_s]

Use these:


$22 -> Amazon.com: Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers: Automotive

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by bazar01

What is the torque value on the CV allen cap screws? Is 40 ft-lbs enough?

Edit:
Found the answer on step # 26, torque on M10 allen cap screws is 60 ft-lbs.
Lifted the car and torque CV to correct value.

You might want to do some searches for the CV bolts again. I realize that some literature indicates 60 pounds, but I believe there was a factory TSB that said something in the range of mid 30s - 37 lb-ft? It was only last week that I saw it, but I just can't recall where it was.

And the torque on the axle nut is incredible. I think it's 348 lb-ft. That's just nuts.

Great write up Cowtown. Any chance you're in Calgary?

[snah]

Originally Posted by cowtown

21) Put the second metal cover over the axle and maneuver the new inboard boot onto the cover. Clamp the large and small ends of the new boot.

With the help of this excellent write-up I managed to tackle this job without too many issues.

One note on attaching the large clamp on the inboard side of the axle - make sure the part to be squeezed to tighten is in between 2 of the CV bolts - otherwise it is impossible to get one of the bolts in.