No need to replace the nut.

No thread lock on the inboard nuts, but it is advisable to recheck the torque after 25 miles.

Thank you for the write up and detailed pictures

I just tried to do this procedure. Step 9 did not work for me. I have a later 95 C4 and Bilstein HD shocks. I could not get the outer joint past my shock. I really only needed to replace the inner boot, so I just did it on the car. Messy and tight job, but went okay.

I think I had my HDs on when I did this the first time and certainly the second time. The trick is that you need a second floor jack underneath the brake rotor or hub to compress the shock just the right amount while the car is already on jack stands. It is definitely doable, as I'm a complete clutz and did it twice. On second thought, I may have taken the tranny out before I removed the CVs the second time, but I know it's doable with the tranny in there.

I just tried to do this procedure. Step 9 did not work for me. I have a later 95 C4 and Bilstein HD shocks. I could not get the outer joint past my shock. I really only needed to replace the inner boot, so I just did it on the car. Messy and tight job, but went okay.

Removing axle shaft
 

Im having hell trying to remove the axle. Does removing the shock will permit more space to get the axle out, I already raised the rotor and suspension the highest possible. I need advise, I'm working on my 1996 Targa.
Cheers

you may have to lower the suspension slightly to make it work, you'll need to play with it a bit to get it just right to wiggle it out

Thanks for the write up. I wrapped this job up last night. I'd still be there if I didn't see this DIY.

I also had some trouble getting the boot in place. I hit them lightly with a heat gun which made them much easier to stretch.

How did you get the joint back together? Ive been at it 45 minutes and I came in to relax for a few minutes before I throw it.

Go back and look at my photos on pg. 1. That should point you in the right direction. IIRC, they only go together one way, so you shouldn't be able to mess it up.

It was helpful to me to keep the axle level & resting on the cv joint like on a workbench or on the floor while reassembling the joints as they do like to puke out the balls. I used the floor so as not to risk one falling off the bench.

Sub'd! Very nice! Mine had just been serviced before I bought the car, but I'm planning to put the miles on this car, so I'm sure to be revisiting this!

I got it after a brief break. Thanks!

Step #12 refers to "Pop off the large metal cap that covers the outside of the inboard CV". I noticed that the kit referenced in this DIY (F-332-924-02) does not exist on Pelican anymore. I'm not sure on the correct kit to use? I purchased the kit number PEL-CV993B1 but it does not contain the large metal cap described in step 12...Is it okay to reuse the old caps?

Also, it looks like the hose clamps used in the PEL-CV993B1 kit are different from the normal CV boot clamps that would require the special CV Boot clamp pliers. Does this seem right?

Thanks guys!
Todd

If the old ones are not damaged from removal, I have reused them.

Thanks jhg41977...I did some additional searching and it appears the hose clamps will work fine too.

No problem.

Suggestions on removing axles and separating axle components.
 

Thanks for this article - it was really helpful on my 1995 993. 2 comments that may be of use to other readers:

1) The use of a 3-arm puller is definitely helpful in getting the parts off of the axle shaft, as was mentioned on page 1 of this thread. To center the threaded rod of the puller, I used a 1-piece star socket, upside down. The star bit went into the hole in the axle so that it would not slip out of place, and the threaded rod went into the 3/8 drive opening.

2) My car absolutely would not let me remove the axles without partially disassembling the suspension. I jacked the car up, down and sideways and there was not enough clearance around the body of the shock. I therefore followed this article to remove the suspension lower mounts, up to the point where the shock body could be pulled away from the mounts and pushed to the outside of the mount, allowing me then to remove the axle.
Pelican Technical Article: 993 Technical Article:

Excellent write up!
Just completed this on my 95 Cab.
A couple of inputs that might help:

2) I also am without an impact gun. Shade tree solution was to use my floor jack on the end of a breaker bar. 1/4 turn enough that I could then loosen the axle nut manually.

12) Used the edge of a block of wood and hammer to separate the metal covers without scratching/dinging

14) No luck banging with hammer. Took it to local machine shop and they pressed it off ($8.50).

21) Same machine shop let me borrow their boot clamp tool.

26) Half a day of cursing did not help. Same shock interference regardless of jacking of wheel...UNTIL I took car off jacks and only jacked the suspension point of that wheel alone. Made a big difference in the amount of strut compression allowing me just enough clearance to insert the axle.

I am stuck at knocking off the outer shield. Started with the selection of punches, large screwdrivers, it will not move at all. Put some pb blaster around it and left the shaft in the vice for tomorrow...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476494144.jpg