964 1st gear shift problem

vpik01 · 05-17-2005, 10:27 AM

I have a 90 964 C2 with 75k miles on it. I have owned it almost a year and always noticed that when run in stop and go traffic or at highway speeds for some time (ie when its hot) the first gear gets very sticky. In the last two weeks it has become nearly impossible to put it in 1st and now reverse and 2nd are becoming quite sticky as well. I can usually get it into first for the first 5 min or so after start but this is definitly a new development, or worsening of my old symptoms... anyone else have this issue? or ideas? Thanks!

Tony

ekessel · 05-17-2005, 01:03 PM

How does the clutch pedal feel? Smooth, or "crunchy"?
-Eric
90 C2

badcar · badcar's Garage

You need to have a clutch job.

Vapors · 05-17-2005, 01:45 PM

May be the trans oil is low. wrong type or is really old and could use a change.

colo964 · 05-17-2005, 07:35 PM

I agree w/ Vapors: mine was rough until I changed the oil out with Mobil1 (slightly overfilling it by about 1/4 quart) It is smooth as can be.

vpik01 · 05-18-2005, 03:48 AM

How does the clutch pedal feel? Smooth, or "crunchy"?
-Eric
90 C2

Thanks to everyone for the input... the clutch pedal feels smooth though I have noticed that the 'play'... or distance it travels before the clutch engages has increased - which I assume means the spring is getting worn. As far as I know the clutch is original. Is 75k miles really all you get out of one of these?

As part of replacing the clutch, if that is required I have read that the Double Mass Flywheel must also be replaced or resurfaced, a new one is nearly $1k, how much is a resurfaced one? or to get yours resurfaced if it is in good enough shape?.

vapors and colo964 - did you put mobil1 oil in as transmission fluid? and how often should you recycle your transmission oil?

ekessel · 05-18-2005, 04:24 AM

Do you know if the clutch master/slave cylinder has ever been bled? There have also been problems found in the clutch pedal assembly, where the pedal moves a bit before actuating the master cylinder, this is usually felt in the pedal. I'd try bleeding the hydraulics as a first step....... Also, with the car off, and drivers window open, pressing and releasing the clutch, do you hear any sounds from the back? The slave cylinder will start to "groan" as it wears out......
-Eric
90 C2
NER/PCA

vpik01 · 05-18-2005, 04:29 AM

I don't have any records to say the cylinder has been bled so that is a good first step. I will try the 'groaning' test as soon as I get off work. I'll keep you posted!

Thanks again.

Tony

vpik01 · 05-18-2005, 09:08 AM

Well, I tried the clutch and I don't hear any groaning from the slave cylinder, there is however some light clicking sound. only about 2 or 3 clicks per push of the pedal. Bleeding the system can't hurt I suppose still though.

Tony

Vapors · 05-18-2005, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by vpik01
How does the clutch pedal feel? Smooth, or "crunchy"?
-Eric
90 C2

Thanks to everyone for the input... the clutch pedal feels smooth though I have noticed that the 'play'... or distance it travels before the clutch engages has increased - which I assume means the spring is getting worn. As far as I know the clutch is original. Is 75k miles really all you get out of one of these?

As part of replacing the clutch, if that is required I have read that the Double Mass Flywheel must also be replaced or resurfaced, a new one is nearly $1k, how much is a resurfaced one? or to get yours resurfaced if it is in good enough shape?.

vapors and colo964 - did you put mobil1 oil in as transmission fluid? and how often should you recycle your transmission oil?

I used redline syn. But any recomended trans. oil will work just fine.

Vapors · 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Vapors
I used redline syn. But any recomended trans. oil will work just fine. Always try the easy fixes first.

vpik01 · 06-08-2005, 06:56 AM

Well its been a couple weeks now, and 2 wks of if the car was in the shop. (Tifs in Annapolis, MD)

He couldn't find anything mechanically wrong w/ the clutch to explain the inability to get into first gear. He did find some rust on the clutch fork and on some of the moving pieces in the clutch housing... the solution he came up for was to coat everything in WD 40, adjust the clutch pedal to allow for the current amount of wear on the plate and replace the crankcase oil.

I can't argue with the results, after about a week of driving it the shifting is smoother than I've ever had it in the past year... After sitting in the sun and being on the highway I do still notice a slight hesitation going into first but it is nothing like before.

Thanks for the responses!

Tony

kirkf · 09-29-2005, 05:22 PM

I have the exact same problems with my 1989 C4.
I am pushing the clutch pedal through the floor to get enough disengagement on the clutch to shift gears.

As the car warms up the problem gets progressively worse.

Like you I can hear a mechanical 'click' when the clutch is engaged fully, underneath the car at the transmission.

I have checked the mechanical function at the pedal and made sure there are no problems there.

I have changed the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and rubber line at the slave cylinder and rebled the system with a pressure bleeder.

How did your mechanic adust the clutch for wear??? I thought there was no adjustment for this?

Has your problem remained solved?

I was going to drop the engine next and check the clutch/throw out bearing and clutch fork next.

Does anybody else have any suggestions?

Kirk
kafirth@yahoo.com

rcwaldo · 10-01-2005, 08:33 PM

Since the problem changes with heat, I would recommend bleeding the entire clutch circuit. Between the slave seeing a lot of heat (and heat soak), and lazy dealers not bleeing regularly upon service, this brake fluid gets pretty dark and chunky, which is a sign of moisture in the fluid. This is what I have found with 964/993 cars that exhibit this type of shifting trouble.

As a result of this, you are working your syncros pretty hard. Best is to take care of this soon.

A clicking clutch noise (engine off) is typically cured with a new slave cylinder. They are about $70 at the dealer.

Also, due to age, replace that rubber line that feeds the slave cylinder. They always look fine from the outside, but inside, they swell and restrict fluid flow back and forth. This adds a delay in clutch actuation and plays a number on your shifting-clutching timing..