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Opening Disclaimer: I did search the boards, but haven't found quite the right Q&A. Please accept my apoligies in advance if I offend with my line of very basic questions.
I just got a '96 993 C4 w/ 6 spd manual. It has @ 93 K miles and probably still it's original clutch. It's my first Porsche and I don't have the owner's manual or extended service records ![]() 1. When shifting gears, I'm startied to notice a harsh bump/grind shifting into third. If I'm very slow making the shifts, pausing between the gates, I can nudge the shifter into gears without the gnash/bump grind. Then I started to notice a little gnashing going into 2nd. Once in the gear, it all seems fine, and the car pulls strongly. Gears 4, 5 and 6 are smooth. 2. Engine Oil level and pressue seem normal. But on a couple of occasions, I've noticed that hot-oil smell when moving around the car after a drive. Once or twice I noticed a few wisps of smoke or steam that seemed oddly timed to be water vapor from tail pipes. 3. Just a couple of drives ago, I notices a very brief squeak when engaging the clutch (letting up on the pedal) after shifting into third under a light load. That hasn't happened often enough to establish a pattern. So, is the tranmission's gear oil the same fluid that operates the hydraulic clutch? Could it be transmission fluid I'm smelling? Would low fluid account for the lousy shifting? How can I check and add transmission fluid(s)? Thanks in advance for helping out this poor newb!
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,031
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Firstly, congrats on your purchase!! 993's are great cars and the result of over 30 years of development.
Your gearbox uses its own oil, separate from the clutch actuation hydraulics. The clutch circuit shares brake fluid with your brakes. First thing to do, change your gearbox oil. Use Mobil1 synthetic. This alone has been known to help shifting trouble. Is your shifting trouble only when cold? Clutch pedal creaking of rough action can be cured by simply bleeding the circuit. You will be amazed how dark the old fluid will be (unless of course if it has been changed recently). Does your clutch pedal hang about an inch from full release? If the clutch bleed doesnt help, replacing the clutch slave cylinder will most certainly help. These are not too expensive at ~$65. Replacing these are not too bad, tricky if its your first time doing so. Common engine oil leaks are lower valve cover gaskets. These, too, are a piece of cake to replace. If your lower engine cover is still -on-, many remove theirs as this lets the bottom side of the engine breathe and drops the temps some. This tray also helps mask engine oil leaks as it will hold some oil until enough has leaked out. Where are you located? Hope this helps! |
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Hi rcwaldo,
Thanks for your response (your post 928 - a very auspicious number, indeed!). Clutch pedal is quite stiff, but seems consistently so through its full travel, no hanging. It feels as if the return spring is very strong, or a rubber bushing some place is binding. Doesn't seem any worse cold, but that could be my lack of familiarity (My daily driver is a Honda Element with an automatic.). If the system were in need of bleeding, perhaps the clutch mechanism isn't disengaging enough? Pre-purchase inspection didn't turn up any oil leaks. Compression and leakdown were OK. It passed CA-style emission test first try. So, Gearbox oil (Mobile 1), bleed the clutch hydraulics and try it a while. hmmm. '95. That has the "Basket handle" third brake light. The 96 has it bolted on over across the top of the rear window. I just had to have mine repaired to pass VA inspection. Power conductor for the light runs in and through the rear glass :0 Just the window costs $1200! So I had my mechanic drill the chassis over the window and run a wire tucked under the inside gasket/headliner to the harness at the base of the window. I hope primer and silicone are enough to keep rust at bay. I live south of Washington D.C. Thanks for the advice!
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ANYTIME! Feel free to email me at cwalrod@sbcglobal.net with ANY 993 questions. Glad to help!
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