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roofbolter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Steeler Country, PA
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Oil Leak 90 964 C4



I have identified the leak on my C4, it is coming from the oil return tube on the drivers side next to the oil line. It drips right at the point where the tube crosses over the oil line. It drips constantly about every minute. 1/4 to 1/2 cup per day. Is it a very expensive repair to have this tube and that oil line replaced and what else should I have done while they are doing this work

thanks Steve


Last edited by roofbolter; 07-05-2008 at 04:40 AM..
Old 07-04-2008, 08:01 AM
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..the tube should be an easy inexpnsive repair check here

http://www.***************/search/product.aspx?gkw=Porsche+911+Oil+Return+Tube&gad=CKP7wboDEgjuUnZinSjHGBjtn_T8AyCjxe8p&makeid=800019@Porsche&modelid=1262854@911&year=1990&cid=20@Engine%20Parts,%20Seals%20%26%20Gaskets&gid=5579@Oil%20Return%20Tube


the oil line should not require head removal

Cheers
K
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:27 PM
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I researched this a little more and found previous posts that explain how to change the oil return tubes. I can't wait to get the parts and give it a try.
Old 07-05-2008, 06:36 PM
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I replaced my oil return tubes this winter. Not a difficult job except that I did not see enough room with the heat exchangers on. Taking the heat exchangers off was a problem as a couple studs broke during removal. Repairing the broken studs was way more difficult than the oil return tubes.
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Old 07-06-2008, 01:51 AM
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I will be prepared to do the same thing. I figure to spray dpwn the heat exchanger bolts with Liquid Wrench several times before doing the job. Did you have to drill and re-tap the stud mounts?
Old 07-06-2008, 03:43 AM
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Sure did. I was able to get a jig for a Pelican member which helped immensely. I hope you do not run into this problem and the Liquid Wrench works for you. It was not overly difficult, just very time consuming.
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Old 07-06-2008, 04:23 AM
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Also strongly suggest you look at PB Blaster. Heat is also your friend.
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Old 07-06-2008, 07:17 AM
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Looking at the rusted oil return you will likely have some issues removing the exhaust fasteners. Get the PB Blaster out. I had a tough time with mine even though there was no visible rust on the exhaust fasteners.



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Old 07-06-2008, 09:07 AM
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I purchased this car from a doctor who lives in north-eastern PA, he drove the car year round. You car see that the road salt has taken its toll, however the body is fine and I picked the car up for a good price. I will give the PB blaster a try.
Old 07-06-2008, 09:45 AM
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Is it reasonable to expect the dealer to be able to eliminate all oil leaks if I am willing to pay the price. I have had my car to the dealer twice for oil leaks that were not fixed the first time. It still has a very minor leak. I don't know if I should keep taking it back or just accept the leaking.
Old 08-18-2008, 07:34 PM
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Thanks to all the members who have provide information on oil leak repairs. I have changed my oil return turns and the seal/o ring on the camshaft that drives the power steering pump. I changed to return tubes with the heat exchangers on, it is not that bad a job now that I have gone through the learning curve. The biggest problem is getting the snap ring back into position, you need small snap ring pliers. Lubricant helps a lot, be sure to put some between the sleeves and work it back and forth, makes sliding them apart a breeze. Can not really tell you how many hours it took, just have patience.
Old 08-24-2008, 09:16 AM
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Did you replace the oil line that goes from the left side of the case to the oil filter adaptor?
The old ones (steel with a rubber flex part covered in silver heat resistant foil) have been updated to the steel with a braided-steel flex hose section. The old ones leak.
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Old 08-24-2008, 03:18 PM
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I wanted to but did not, I did not think I would be able to get a wrench on the fitting and be able to turn it with the heat exchangers in the way.

Old 08-24-2008, 03:47 PM
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