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Here is a picture of the bearing parts all disassembled.



INA W. Germany 7201 BE 2RS AH01

12.4mm 32mm 10mm
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Old 07-16-2011, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoEardGoat View Post
Here is a picture of the bearing parts all disassembled.



INA W. Germany 7201 BE 2RS AH01

12.4mm 32mm 10mm
Thanks for the exploded view pic!

That looks like an angular contact bearing if I am correct.

How are the bearing races held together? Does the inner race separate from the bearing just by pushing it outwards or is it all held together by the seals?
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Old 07-16-2011, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveller View Post
Thanks for the exploded view pic!

That looks like an angular contact bearing if I am correct.

How are the bearing races held together? Does the inner race separate from the bearing just by pushing it outwards or is it all held together by the seals?
All of my bearings were shot and I took them all apart so I no longer have a whole bearing. From what I remember taking it apart 5 years ago, and piecing together the parts I have now, I believe it was held together by the seals....
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Old 07-16-2011, 10:59 AM
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Anyone have any advice???? Maybe this should be in the technical section??
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:43 PM
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Steve Weiner at Rennsport rebuilds distributors, including bearings if necessary. You could give him a call, and ask him so sell you what you need.
Old 07-25-2011, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newsboy View Post
Steve Weiner at Rennsport rebuilds distributors, including bearings if necessary. You could give him a call, and ask him so sell you what you need.
I would, but at the $140 each that he charges and there are 3 of them, I'll pass and will be modifying my own.

These bearings (7201-B-2RS-TVP) are under $30 each and all that needs to be done is to take 0.225 mm (almost 0.009") in radius off the inner diameter of the bearing.

I'm looking forward to this project.
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:19 AM
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I just went throught his same deal (ordeal?).
I brought the secondary shaft to a machine shop along with a pair of 6201 SKF bearings. The shop's engineer conclusion was that they machined .4mm off the shaft diameter. Their estimate, shared by my P mechanic, was that he shaft sees so little loading that .4mm out of 12.4 is not significant. Cost was 50$ to have the shaft machined, 14$ for the 2 bearings, and 9$ for the belt.

I have now 2K Kms on the distributor and it works without issues so far.

No offense to anyone but I am NOT paying 140$ for a bearing that costs not a penny more to make than the 6201 @ 7$.
Old 07-25-2011, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeK View Post
I brought the secondary shaft to a machine shop along with a pair of 6201 SKF bearings.
The 6201 is a deep groove ball bearing, wheras the 7201 angular contact bearing that is used, can withstand far more side loads.

I wonder if the 6201 bearings will last as long considering the side load on them.

It took the use of my drill press, used as a press with the jaws turned in, to overcome the force of the Belleville washer to get the gear and shaft holes to line up for the rivet.

Any reason you only replaced 2 of the 3 bearings?
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:54 AM
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I did not know about the 7201 when I did the work. I'll keep an eye on it.
I only replaced the secondary shaft bearings because they were corroded badly, whereas the main shaft turned smoothly and without any play.
Old 07-25-2011, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeK View Post
I did not know about the 7201 when I did the work. I'll keep an eye on it.
I only replaced the secondary shaft bearings because they were corroded badly, whereas the main shaft turned smoothly and without any play.
I'm curious how you got to the clip at the bottom of the secondary shaft.

How did you remove the cover at the end of the distributor housing?

On-line DIYs tell you to grind the stake marks off the distributor housing so that the cover can be removed. I didn't want to go that route so I carefully drilled a hole in that cover so that I could pry it out. The cover came out very easily because it is thin and soft. I then used a 1 1/4" frost plug with a 1/4" wall height that I tapped into place.

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Old 07-26-2011, 04:38 AM
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I actually cut the protruding aluminium with a sharp knife and pried the cap out wit the blade tip.

To fit it back, I made the exact same indents as original with a punch and hammer.
I added 3 dabs of epoxy to secure it more.
Old 07-26-2011, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeK View Post
I just went throught his same deal (ordeal?).
I brought the secondary shaft to a machine shop along with a pair of 6201 SKF bearings. The shop's engineer conclusion was that they machined .4mm off the shaft diameter. Their estimate, shared by my P mechanic, was that he shaft sees so little loading that .4mm out of 12.4 is not significant. Cost was 50$ to have the shaft machined, 14$ for the 2 bearings, and 9$ for the belt.

I have now 2K Kms on the distributor and it works without issues so far.

No offense to anyone but I am NOT paying 140$ for a bearing that costs not a penny more to make than the 6201 @ 7$.
This cannot be done to the primary shaft. There is a seal inside the bottom of the shaft housing just above the needle bearing. The shaft at the needle bearing is 12.0mm, but the seal meets with the shaft after the taper to 12.4mm. The taper also keeps the shaft from falling through the housing by contacting the needle bearing.
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Old 07-30-2011, 11:41 AM
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The shaft is held in place by the dovel that indexes the brass plated gear for the belt as well. I think it should be possible to machine the primary shaft to just below the belt gear level. I don't have the distr in front of me, so I am not positive.
Old 07-30-2011, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoEardGoat View Post
There is a seal inside the bottom of the shaft housing just above the needle bearing.
There was no such seal on my distributor and it has never been apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoEardGoat View Post
The shaft at the needle bearing is 12.0mm, but the seal meets with the shaft after the taper to 12.4mm. The taper also keeps the shaft from falling through the housing by contacting the needle bearing.
The toothed gear pressing against the belleville washer which in turn is pressing against the upper 7201 bearing is what keeps the shaft from falling through.

If you remember, you need to press the drive gear at the bottom on to overcome the belleville washer in order to get the solid rivet through the hole in the gear and shaft.
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Old 07-30-2011, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeK View Post
The shaft is held in place by the dovel that indexes the brass plated gear for the belt as well. I think it should be possible to machine the primary shaft to just below the belt gear level. I don't have the distr in front of me, so I am not positive.
I don't have my bearings in place so I am not able to see if the bearing race touches the brass plated washer beneath the gears. If this is the case I don't see why one couldn't just turn down the shaft .4mm up to the belt drive. This would be the easiest solution to machine.

I would still love to see the jig that held the inner bearing race for material removal.

There is a seal just above the bearing at the base of the primary shaft. I don't know what it is supposed to seal out. It's function doesn't seem that important?
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Old 07-30-2011, 06:12 PM
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Had a look at my distributor and can confirm: one can machine the main shaft to 12mm up to to the dovel without an issue. The dovel will stop in the belt cog and there is a washer and clip above the dovel that will also prevent the axle from going down in the cog.
Old 07-31-2011, 01:55 PM
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This will be of special interest to DIYers who are in need of these dual distributor bearings for a thorough rebuild.

As far as I am concerned, if the distributor belt is in need of changing due to age, the bearings might not be far behind having seen some both on forums and first hand that are totally dry and rusty. In fact the belt on the dual distributor that I am working on for a local 993 owner failed because a bearing seized.

The markings on the original bearing that was removed: 7201 BE 2RS AH01
Google that part number and you'll come up with numerous European suppliers to order from.

Manufacturer: INA but INA and FAG are under the same roof now, so they may be from FAG. The original bearing that came out was made in GERMANY, but the replacements are made in Slovakia.

For some reason, North American bearing suppliers * do not stock these but they are available from European suppliers for 47.90 each, or US$60 at the present rate of exchange. Shipping took a week. * I am dealing with my local bearing supplier to bring them in and far cheaper than Euro pricing.

So three bearings, a belt, a pin and shipping from Europe will run you about $235 all in for the DIYer.

Here are a couple of pics of the bearings we just installed...





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Old 12-12-2014, 05:56 AM
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Good info. Keep it coming.
: )
Old 12-12-2014, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
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I used ball brg NSK 6201-08DDU, but there are SKF/NTN/FAG equivalents.
Basically a double rubber sealed 6201 ball brg.
These brgs are the same dimensionally except for the ID wich is 0.5mm dia. larger.
Prepare the brgs in advance by wrapping 0.25mm thick shim stock of appropriate x-y dimension around the shaft, and apply a bit of retaining compound to the ID of the brg so that the shim/sleeve is glued to the ID of the brg.
You will need a blind brg removal tool to remove the olds brgs.
I think the brgs were around $15 ea.
This cheap fix was done 5 years ago, and many many miles later - still going strong!
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Old 12-12-2014, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al S View Post
This cheap fix was done 5 years ago, and many many miles later - still going strong!
Al, just out of curiosity, did you remove some of the shims to reduce the side load on the ball bearings that the Belleville washer puts on them.
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:10 PM
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