Rear Wheel Bearing change ?

[bazar01]

I have both axles removed already. Does the caliper and rotor have to come out first to be able to pull the drive hub with the bearing attached to it? I searched but could not find any DIY thread on replacing rear wheel bearing on a 964.
Thanks.

[bazar01]

Got the caliper and rotor off and now it is clear to me how the bearing must come out.

Any Pelicanite in Georgia who has the bearing tool willing to loan for a week?

[rattlsnak]

you can make your own tool for @ $20.00 from parts from Home Depot.

like this:


Do a search for the tool here and on RL and it will give you a parts list. Let me know if you cant find it and Ill try to find it for you.

[bazar01]

Thanks for the pic. That pic shows after the hub was pulled, right?
How did you pull the hub with the internal spline? Push it out from the back side with a brass drift and hammer or puller with a slide hammer?

[bazar01]

Got the hub out with a slide hammer.





Off to Home Depot for a 3/4" allthread and washers.

[rattlsnak]

Git er done???

[bazar01]

nope, having a hard time looking for a bushing with 3-1/4" inside diameter for pulling out the bearing in the trailing arm. Not really in a hurry, I am sure I'll find something or get something made by a machine shop.
Thanks.

[rattlsnak]

Where are you in Georgia? you can use mine. I'm near East Cobb/Roswell.

[bazar01]

I found a round junction box with a 3-1/4" ID. I tried to pull the bearing last night but it did not want to move. I will try it again on Saturday and apply some heat to the trailing arm.
I'll let you know if this tool does the job. I am in Leesburg, GA, 3 hours southwest of Atlanta.
Thanks.

[bazar01]

The 3-1/4" round junction box worked but I had to heat up the trailing arm. The bearing was an interference fit.

Bearing exposed:


Bearing puller set up while heating up the arm.


Bearing out:


Pushing the new bearing to the trailing arm through the outer race, the next challenge.

[bazar01]

Got one new bearing installed. One more to go.

Installation tool set up


New bearing installed.


New passenger side bearing.

[bazar01]

Took care of the bearing inner race stuck in the drive hub. I used a dremmel and cut a groove deep enough to easily break it and comes off really easy.

Drive hub.


Drive hub installed.

[rattlsnak]

now the hard part.. torquing it to 300+ Ft. lbs..!

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by rattlsnak

now the hard part.. torquing it to 300+ Ft. lbs..!

I am ready for that I have a 250 ft-lb torque wrench.

[bazar01]

Both sides complete! It took one weekend the first time.
Next, dropping the engine for the clutch change. It's going to be a long winter project.

Passenger side. No axle yet.


Driver side. No axle yet.

[rattlsnak]

Curious, how did you torque it to over 300 if you only have a 250ft wrench?
Ill be honest, I just used a 4 foot long jack handle over the ratchet and had a 250 guy stand on it.. lol..

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by rattlsnak

Curious, how did you torque it to over 300 if you only have a 250ft wrench?
Ill be honest, I just used a 4 foot long jack handle over the ratchet and had a 250 guy stand on it.. lol..

I have not put the axles back on. I still plan on dropping the engine for a clutch job this coming weekend.

Here's what I plan to do.
I will torque it in 4 stages starting at 175, 200, 225 and 250 while measuring the angular displacement at each stage, Then estimate the angular displacement to get 300 ft-lbs.

[Traveller]

Originally Posted by bazar01

Here's what I plan to do.
I will torque it in 4 stages starting at 175, 200, 225 and 250 while measuring the angular displacement at each stage, Then estimate the angular displacement to get 300 ft-lbs.

That angular displacement might be so small at each stage, you may be off quite a bit due to error.

Why not get a 3/4" drive socket on a ratchet, use an extension for an overall length of 4 feet, step on a bathroom scale and add 75 pounds to your weight as you are torquing up the nut. The handle will have to be parallel to the ground the scale is on. That or use an accurate spring scale.

BTW, I hope you used proper bearing installation methods...by not applying any force to the inner race.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by Traveller

That angular displacement might be so small at each stage, you may be off quite a bit due to error.

Why not get a 3/4" drive socket on a ratchet, use an extension for an overall length of 4 feet, step on a bathroom scale and add 75 pounds to your weight as you are torquing up the nut. The handle will have to be parallel to the ground the scale is on. That or use an accurate spring scale.

BTW, I hope you used proper bearing installation methods...by not applying any force to the inner race.

Well, how much off can you get after applying 250 ft-lbs using a torque wrench? Specs I think is 350 ft-lbs. If say from 175 to 200 caused a 7 mm movement and 200 to 250 ft-lbs caused a circumferential movement of 5 mm, I think I should be safe if I can move the nut by another 3 mm by applying my 150 lb weight over 3 feet of extension on the socket. I don't think the nut will come loose by just normal street driving.

Regarding bearing installations, it's a must that you push the outer race when installing a bearing in a housing, and you push on the inner race when installing the drive hub. Never apply any load on the ball bearings against either the inner and outer races.

[Traveller]

Originally Posted by bazar01

Regarding bearing installations, it's a must that you push the outer race when installing a bearing in a housing, and you push on the inner race when installing the drive hub. Never apply any load on the ball bearings against either the inner and outer races.

I know.