Replace "Cup" Clutch - need part numbers
 

My 993 has the LWF / Cup clutch according to the receipts that came with the car. I need to replace the clutch and would like to buy all the necessary replacement components that ususally come in a clutch service kit. Can you help me with the part numbers? I don't see a Cup clutch kit without the flywheel, which I guess I will need!?

FWIW the TRG invoice from the PO only says "Carrera Cup Clutch Kit, Fywheel, Pressure Plate, Bearing, Pilot Bearing, Bolts" without Porsche part numbers.

Thanks!!!

I Don't Have Much Information About This so Please Help me.......

993 RS/CS M003 l/w setup
RS LWF 964 102 239 31
RS PP 964 116 028 53
RS disc 996 116 015 32 or 964.116.011.61
RS starter ring gear 964 114 143 31
RS guide tube 950 116 813 30
Rear main seal 999 113 426 41
Flywheel bolts 928 102 151 01
PP bolts n 014 715 3
Release bearing 944 116 080 01
Pilot bearing 931 102 111 00

note that some or maybe all have been superseded w/ 996 or 997 #s, same part just newer versions

Excellent, thanks for the list!

Now I need to know what needs to be replaced (routinely). Please help me out. I went over it with the best of my knowledge:

RS PP 964 116 028 53 <--- check
RS disc 996 116 015 32 or 964.116.011.61 <--- check

RS guide tube 950 116 813 30
Replace? Inspect first?

Rear main seal 999 113 426 41
not leaking, do people replace this as preventative maintenance? This has been replaced about 80k miles ago about 8 years back. I usually let sleeping dogs lie - haven't heard this seal is prone to leakage on the 3.6.

Flywheel bolts 928 102 151 01
would not remove unless you tell me I need to do the RMS as prev. maint. or does this need to come out for pilot bearing install?

PP bolts n 014 715 3
???

Release bearing 944 116 080 <--- check
Pilot bearing 931 102 111 00 <---- check

TIA, G

The Guide tube is unique to the M003 RS & Cup, the normal part will need to be replaced

RMS is one of those things that is cheap to do while the engine is out, if it's not replaced it could last for ever or go next week. i had one replaced and needed to replace it a year later. I guess it just depends on how lucky you feel.

use new pp bolts

I'd also think seriously about replacing the /20 shift spindle 950.303.134.02 w/ either the /3x part 95.303.134.05 or if GT still has them a GT replacement part

and a hd 3/4 shift fork, again the /32 part is 950.303.113.04 and GT used to have an hd 1/2 version as well that was used in the 996GT3R(i'd need to look up the part # if you are interested)

Sorry, I am not following: This tube is unique and therefore does not need to be replaced? Just please tell me if I need to order it or not. ;)

I once did the input shaft seal on a TD350 while the engine was out only for it to leak 3 months later. That's why I am asking!


There are a steel shift fork and steel synchros in the plans, not sure if the shift spindle is amongst the beef up parts TRE had planned for me.

One more question: What needs replacing on the clutch fork mechanism? Bearings, shaft, fork?

Thanks a ton!

G

yes, you need the tube

on the fork, why not let Dave R&R as necessary, there are several wear items, like the bushes at the ends of the fork and operating spindle

Thanks Bill. The clutch fork and shaft are on my garage floor! TRE is 1h+ away, so I will inspect myself and report back!

G

Cup Clutch
 

Bill, If I want to convert my clutch to a "Cup" clutch, do I just need to change the flywheel?

My clutch was recently changed by Possum Motorsport and they installed a sachs clutch kit. From what I understand, the major difference is the flywheel, is this correct?

Cheers, James

yes, the flywheel/clutch assembly is a system

dual mass flywheel and it's components

or single mass and it's components as outlined above

James,

The way I understand your question is that you just had a regular sachs clutch kit put in and now want to go with a LWF / cup set up. I do not believe that the LWF works properly with the standard clutch kit. You will have to buy the entire LWF kit which consists of all parts Bill listed for us.

I am in the opposite situation of you. I have the LWF but the clutch components are worn out. I can't just go buy a standard $800 Sachs clutch kit.

G

George

Finally got a hold of an 8 mm metric "triple square" tool to take the pressure plate off. I am impressed how good the clutch disk and the flywheel look after over 80k miles on them. The clutch was getting pretty heavy - probably the pressure plate?

Do I need to have the flywheel resurfaced? It is very flat as you can see in the pictures, hopefully. There is light discoloration but no grooves or noticeable rounding.

Thanks,

G

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300767967.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300768077.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300768171.jpg

I consulted TRE during my last phone call on the flywheel - their recommendation on an LWF is not to resurface rather than hit it with some sand paper to get a nice cross hatch pattern helping to seat the new disk!

G

If I read your post correctly You already have the longer guide tube needed for the cup clutch. It isn,t necessary to replace it again unless worn. I need one for an upcoming LWF install so if you already ordered a replacment and have a good used one I would be interested in it The clutch will get heavy as the disc wears thinner.also the grease on the guide tube goes away and friction increases there too. I think there is a special grease that is supposed to address the stiff clutch

When replacing the FW with an RS set up can someone tell me the orientation of the ring gear? The RS version has a step on one side and is flat on the other. Does the flat side go to the flywheel with the stepped portion facing the PP? Any help would be appreciated.

There's a good DIY, here

That was a great write up - thanks! I could not see the ring gear orientation though. Does the pressure plate fit into the stepped down side of the ring gear?

Yes.

Test fit it and you will see that the stepped side will not lie flat on the flywheel but when you turn it around it will engage nicely to the pressure plate and lie flat on the flywheel.

Hope this helps!

George

Thanks George! That helped - I was able to get the clutch in today!