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Spark plugs install - how do you do it?
I have the engine out for my transmission rebuild and refreshing the ignition. How do you all install your plugs?
Dry or anti-seize? Torque or by feel? What torque if you use a wrench (30 Nm per factory manual) Thanks! George |
Since engine is out definitely torque them all
Itas almost impossible to get accurate torque on some of them while engine is in..especially top 6 I use anti seize...some dont, Its probably a 50/50 on that |
Anti-seize, and I torque by feel (the anti-seize saves me there!)
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Anti seize and torque with a torque wrench. If you're asking on here, your elbow is not calibrated enough.
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Great input. Thank you. I did 3 today and put the new ones with 28 Nm per Bosch spark plug box instructions. I have a well calibrated elbow, but if I can like to use the torque wrench!
You will read a lot more questions on here soon, please visit and help as you can! Thanks! George |
The torque values stated by the factory are without anti-seize if my memory serves me right.
Cheers, James |
James,
I did them dry. Not planning on leaving these in for 100k miles. George |
Torque specifications are for new, clean and dry threads. Add rust, corrosion, oil, anti-seize or a combination of them all and the specs quickly become guidelines. Makes the old elbow and the chrome eyeball pretty accurate!!
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Anti-seize, always.
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Anti-seize and 18 lbf.ft. for torque.
The recommended torque for a 14mm spark plug with washer in an aluminium head is 18 to 21.6 lbf.ft. I chose to go with the minimum value since I used an anti-seize compound on the threads. Spark plug torque specs are for dry threads. As for the anti-seize, I use a high temperature copper compound. There are various types available. The one I now use has a far higher temperature rating. |
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