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Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 178
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Transmission shaft seals replacement.

At same time it is not that hard to replace transmission shaft seals:



Mine looked a bit nasty. 1st locate drain and fill pugs - see pic below, loosen them both.



drain transmission oil. Disconnect half shafts from tranny - use hex socket:



use hand brake to hold shafts. Move shaft out - you'll see flange. use one of flange bolts to hold flange and unscrew center bolt:



Pull flange - it will just slide out. Now seal is exposed:



Use seal removal tool. Using screwdriver may scratch aluminum.



new seals:



I used flanges to drive seals and and then large socket to set them in. Again use one of shaft bols to hold flange to tighten center bolt.



Also I cleaned up tranny a bit.

Now level car up. Here's how I do it:



and fill tranny with oil until oil will start dripping from filing hole.



PS. I also heard that tranny leak from shifter rod seal - my car was not doing it yet. Sometimes later...

Oleg.
Old 12-30-2011, 06:30 PM
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Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Here's update. After awhile I looked under car and saw oil drop on return tube:



Lesson learned - buy new oil return pipe 1st time. Not only pipe nut loosens on engine side, rubber part of the pipe will leak.

On my car 36mm nut that mounts pipe to oil filter assembly was pretty stuck. I had to saw off pipe and use 36mm socket to unscrew coupling with rest of pipe out:



and then unscrew nut from coupling:



Here's new part and where old one leaked:



also when putting new pipe in make sure that coupling on engine side is not loosened up:



Oleg.
Old 03-04-2012, 12:51 PM
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Is there any way to tighten the nut for the return line on the engine w/o removing the heat exchangers?

I just put the car back together after doing the engine carrier and timing cover areas, and I think in my removal of the rear shields that go around the return line, I somehow upset that fitting above the heat exchangers.

Now, when the car is running, I have a somewhat steady drip from what looks like that fitting. It runs down the exchanger then to the pavement.


Another question, after reassembly, that hardline portion of the return line near the oil filter is pretty much making contact w/ the primary exhaust pipe where it connects to the secondary, or in my case, G pipe.

You can see it here. On mine, the line and the exhaust touch.
Old 03-04-2012, 04:13 PM
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Oleg Perelet
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vandit View Post
Is there any way to tighten the nut for the return line on the engine w/o removing the heat exchangers?
Not with tool set that I have. But even if you tighten nut up - line WILL LEAK from that flex joint. Replacing line is not that bad - took me one day with saw cutting etc. Besides new line you'll need exhaust nuts and 6 exhaust gaskets, also ordering few extra exhaust studs is good idea. If you just removed your mufflers few weeks ago - no need for other gaskets.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Vandit View Post
Another question, after reassembly, that hardline portion of the return line near the oil filter is pretty much making contact w/ the primary exhaust pipe where it connects to the secondary, or in my case, G pipe.

You can see it here. On mine, the line and the exhaust touch.
I have stock muffler, distance from return line to muffler pipe in closest place is about 1in

Oleg.
Old 03-04-2012, 06:50 PM
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Removing the HE scares the heck out of me because of the risk of breaking studs. I might need to man up to that fear, I guess.

My pipe/exhaust clearance is nil. I made sure the tabs on the back of the canister lined up to the notches on the bracket. No idea why the fitment is off.
Old 03-04-2012, 06:58 PM
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This is a fantastic DIY post. Thank you!
Old 03-23-2012, 07:04 PM
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Thanks Perelet, I did most of these repair this past winter by following your tread.

Thanks a million.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:06 PM
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As a new 964 owner as of a couple weeks ago...............just have to give a HUGE Thank You to Perelet for taking to time to put this thread up......... I kept coming back to it for a quick look..................was really helpful in transpiring my c2 into a leak free machine!!!!! Now time to drive it! Thanks again!
Old 05-20-2012, 11:26 AM
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Oleg,
Great write up and pics. Definitely one of the best, Thanks for sharing with us all.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:23 AM
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I just love this post and have looked it over several times in the past few months.

I just noticed that I am getting a leak on my oil return line on the side that attaches to the engine. I also have a Power steering gasket issue as my passenger side heat exchanger is black with goo.

This project is happening in September!

After pouring over the post I want to ask if part #23 is necessary to replace. It is the Connector Plug Union for the oil return line. It is circled in red meaning to replace but it doesn't look like it was actually done.

Lastly, what is the white stuff on the threads of the oil return line coupling? Is it some kind of sealant? Ideally I only want to go in there once and not have to remove the heat exchangers more than once.

thanks!

Mike B
Old 08-03-2012, 08:57 AM
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Ari
 
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Hopefully Mike's questions can be answered along with mine:

I bought the connector plug union due to it being circled in red. I don't know why it would need replacement, but since I have it I will be putting it in. I suspect that the white stuff is teflon tape. Hopefully someone will confirm that teflon tape is proper and safe to use in this application.

My questions as I work through these fixes:

Has anyone replaced the oil return tubes with the expandable type with the heat exchangers in the car? I am going back and forth on whether to do that while I'm in there. Pros and cons of aluminum vs. OEM style sold by Pelican?

Any disadvantages to replacing the crank pulley seal while you're in there?

Most importantly: What's the procedure for reinstalling the crank pulley? Ideally a procedure that does not involve the $199.50 wrench to hold the pulley still while you torque down the nut. This is the most intimidating part of the procedure for me.

Thanks everyone, especially Perelet for blazing the trail.
Old 03-05-2013, 10:10 AM
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Great write up.... thanks.

I think I have many of the same oil leaks.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:29 PM
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Oleg,
What sealer if any did you use on the t-chain covers? Also was there a torque spec for those nuts?
Thx.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:07 AM
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Ari
 
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I used a very thin film of red RTV on the timing chain cover gaskets. Page 10-2 of the workshop manual specifies 5.5 Nm (4 ft-lb) for the "cover for chain housing" and that is the spec I went by when putting mine back together. I haven't had a lot of opportunities to drive it but I have not had any issues with that part of the engine since.
Old 06-13-2013, 10:51 AM
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how I wish I could still see the photos... I think a lot of these fixes would stop the leaking in my car...
Old 08-18-2014, 12:21 AM
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Pics are loading up just fine for me.
Old 08-18-2014, 04:17 AM
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With the lower valve covers, after replacing gaskets, I have read of some cars where the oil is coming out through the bolt holes and not the edges of the valve cover...
There are no gaskets on these.. is it prudent to apply some sort of thread sealant to each of the lower valve cover nuts?
Old 10-21-2014, 02:32 PM
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My .02 worth on the mag covers.

It is critical to coat the exposed magnesium surface as quickly as possible. Unless you use a Dow process (aka Chemical conversion) to protect the exposed surface the parts need to be protected from the atmosphere ASAP. Corrosion begins almost immediately even though the eye will not detect it.

I would assume if the cover is warped you should be able to place a straight edge along the surface to determine how badly warped they are. If it is more than .010" you might be able to clean it up more than that I would replace. Do not attempt to straighten they more than likely will crack.

For the record Magnesium is non ferrous so it can't rust. Otherwise great write up.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:12 AM
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Hi Oleg.
Is it possible for me to fix my leaky barrels on my 1990 c4, its leaking where the barrels join the block, the motor is running perfect but the oil is just annoying me, I dont want to do A full top end rebuild reason is the engine is perfect other than the oil leak.
Thanks
Gus
Old 02-17-2015, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzygus View Post
Hi Oleg.
Is it possible for me to fix my leaky barrels on my 1990 c4, its leaking where the barrels join the block, the motor is running perfect but the oil is just annoying me, I dont want to do A full top end rebuild reason is the engine is perfect other than the oil leak.
Thanks
Gus
Gus, the cylinders seal with an o-ring into the crankcase unlike earlier engines that used flat copper washers. The bad news is that you have to pull the cam carriers, heads and cylinders off to replace them. The Pistons and rings can be left in place as you slide the cylinders off them. Big job.
Old 02-18-2015, 07:01 AM
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