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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Small town Oklahoma
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Concerning timing chain gaskets. I put ( Dow mollycoat 111 on orings and seals and locktite 518 on chain tensioner / oil bridge. I'm Hoping I got the correct sealants? Or at least they'll work as well as RTV ?
Old 02-18-2015, 07:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedCoupe View Post
Gus, the cylinders seal with an o-ring into the crankcase unlike earlier engines that used flat copper washers. The bad news is that you have to pull the cam carriers, heads and cylinders off to replace them. The Pistons and rings can be left in place as you slide the cylinders off them. Big job.
Thanks for that info, I find the Porsche specialist around here in Syd Australia just want to rebuild even there's nothing wrong with it besides the oil leak
Old 02-18-2015, 12:26 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzygus View Post
Thanks for that info, I find the Porsche specialist around here in Syd Australia just want to rebuild even there's nothing wrong with it besides the oil leak
It's the old "while we're in there" school of thought. If it were my car, I would at least consider a valve grind and resurface of the cylinder heads and tops of the cylinders. If yours is the 964 engine with no sealing rings between the heads and barrels, you could prevent future leaks by having those sealing surfaces re machined.
Old 02-18-2015, 03:39 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
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Oh, sorry, I haven't checked this thread for awhile.

Gus IMHO, Ideally we all will have unlimited budgets and will rebuild engines after every autocross and surely there's a lot of mechanics willing to do that for us.

In real life that's overkill and we have mortgages to pay. Also I prefer to fix with car myself cause for me this is very enjoyable part of ownership, I do that with all of my cars for past few decades.



That said, I had mishap with my engine and that is how it looks today:



this thread will be continued once I put all of that back together
Old 02-19-2015, 01:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #44 (permalink)
Science is not optional
 
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Location: Sunny Alabama
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Oh my. Glad to see you are still around. Sorry to hear of your misfortune.

What's the program here?? New thread with a chance to share some insights?
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:57 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedCoupe View Post
Gus, the cylinders seal with an o-ring into the crankcase unlike earlier engines that used flat copper washers. The bad news is that you have to pull the cam carriers, heads and cylinders off to replace them. The Pistons and rings can be left in place as you slide the cylinders off them. Big job.
Hi Oleg,
Thanks for your in put, I'm currently looking for someone to do it, but the porsche guys want to do A full to partial rebuild, the engines fine got plenty compression doesn't blow smoke, goes really smooth. I just want to fix the oil leak as I cant really afford to be spending all that cash on rebuild. they seem to think once pulled apart it'll need full rebuilding, piton rings, heads ect ect.

BTW today I found another problem, my power steering unit has become very noisy started yesterday got really bad so i pulled over & checked the fluid it seemed very low. I filled it up & the noise went away, today the noise is back & i'm wondering what could be wrong. how much fluid do they take & what could cause this?
Thanks for your help
Cheers; Gus from down under
Old 02-23-2015, 02:15 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #46 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perelet View Post
Oh, sorry, I haven't checked this thread for awhile.

Gus IMHO, Ideally we all will have unlimited budgets and will rebuild engines after every autocross and surely there's a lot of mechanics willing to do that for us.

In real life that's overkill and we have mortgages to pay. Also I prefer to fix with car myself cause for me this is very enjoyable part of ownership, I do that with all of my cars for past few decades.



That said, I had mishap with my engine and that is how it looks today:



this thread will be continued once I put all of that back together
Geez!! That looks scary!
Old 02-23-2015, 02:19 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #47 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzygus View Post
Hi Oleg,
Thanks for your in put, I'm currently looking for someone to do it, but the porsche guys want to do A full to partial rebuild, the engines fine got plenty compression doesn't blow smoke, goes really smooth. I just want to fix the oil leak as I cant really afford to be spending all that cash on rebuild. they seem to think once pulled apart it'll need full rebuilding, piton rings, heads ect ect.

BTW today I found another problem, my power steering unit has become very noisy started yesterday got really bad so i pulled over & checked the fluid it seemed very low. I filled it up & the noise went away, today the noise is back & i'm wondering what could be wrong. how much fluid do they take & what could cause this?
Thanks for your help
Cheers; Gus from down under
Gus, sounds like a leak in the PS system. Likely a high pressure hose or the shaft seal at the pump. They don't "burn" the fluid, so it has to be a leak. Also, check the rack.
Old 02-23-2015, 05:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #48 (permalink)
Ari
 
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Location: ND
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My 964's steering rack was leaky from the time I got it until the time I had the rack rebuilt. This is a common leak. Leaks at the pump are also fairly common, although I seem not to have suffered from that. If the steering rack makes noise, meaning that it is starved for fluid, remember that you have fluid lines from the top of the engine to the bottom of the front axle to fill up in addition to the rack and the little fluid container in the engine bay, so it might take a lot of fluid to be full, after the air bleeds out (from use, or from turning the steering from lock to lock a few times). If the pump is making noise, it's a different issue and probably a more urgent one. (The pump spins with the engine. The rack only moves when you steer.)

I was going to rebuild the rack myself, as the kit of seals for it is not expensive. However, I was short on time and long on stubborn fasteners from doing most of the oil leak fixes from this thread at the time, so I sent it off to be rebuilt at Indianapolis Rack and Axle. I also replaced the fluid container and, I think, one or both of the fluid lines from the container to the pump. The plus side is that the new container has a dipstick built into the lid, which is a better way of reading the level than looking through a translucent, probably dirty plastic wall in dim lighting as the old method required.
Old 02-23-2015, 07:48 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #49 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
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Time to update this thread. Last Christmas I took valve covers off and seen this:


broken Dilivar head stud:




My car has 78K miles on it. So my guess - dilivar head studs just wear over time and eventually break. To fix that - engine needs to come out and taken apart. That's what I'll be adding here.

PS. As I write this car is back together and drivable. I delayed updating thread to make sure everything is described correct. I hate those threads when you read over 3 pages just to find out that person gave up and called mechanic to fix the car car after failing DIY
Old 06-07-2015, 01:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #50 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
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Engine removal


There are quite few threads on this. I'll just post few pics and notes:



I also took rear suspension - I had new pieces waiting to be installed.



You'll need atv jack of some sort - many available. No need for SUPER high lifting jacks - I managed with regular jacks and 2x4's:






Old 06-07-2015, 01:35 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #51 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
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Separating transmission

Mostly unbolting. Need to start with clutch fork disassemble.



Need to use M6 bolt to take shaft out:



Here's factory illustration



and real parts:



#6 and #4 are pin bearings/ #6 will be stuck in bellhousing, you'll need to knock it out. Replace both.



After that just unbolt things. Here are pics of starter mounts - useful to know when you replace starter in car.





Then just pull it apart:
Old 06-07-2015, 01:46 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #52 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 180
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Engine fuel lines and electrical harness.

Here are pics of routing of electrical harness and fuel lines. Helpful as reference when you put things back:







Harness separated:



Fuel lines:






Shroud and spark plug wires:




Shroud removed - knock sensor and wires:



Clean view of pressure sender and seal:

Old 06-07-2015, 01:56 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #53 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
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Getting engine up on the stand

I bought ebay engine stand yoke, there' guy from CA who sells them:



You'll need to do some drilling to adopt it for your stand:



Clutch needs to be removed (keep unbolting), after that yoke is fixed to engine



I had to grind yoke here and there to let flywheel to rotate.


Lift it up:




Ready for dis-assembly:

Old 06-07-2015, 02:03 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #54 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
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Power steering pump removal and rebuild

This can be done without removing engine from the car.








Rebuild kit:







Rebuild is pretty much straight forward, here are illustrations:



Shaft is held in place by clip:





Old 06-07-2015, 02:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #55 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 180
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Cam boxes & chain rails


Here are pics of cam boxes, chain tensioner rails disassembly, pretty much unbolting,



You'll need this tool to undo cam bolts




this pin needs to be pulled out:





Rail stops nees to be removed:












Last edited by perelet; 06-07-2015 at 03:40 PM..
Old 06-07-2015, 03:11 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #56 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 180
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Assembly, pretty much follow factory manual.

New gaskets:



I used this Autozone tool (drill couple of holes) to preload chains:








Make sure chain sites right on crankshaft gear.




Put things back, use new rubber shaft seal and paper gasket:





Use Z block and dial gauge to time engine:



I pretty much followed factory manual for static timing. Slow process:


always remember to keep chains loaded and move engine clock vice only.
Old 06-07-2015, 04:06 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #57 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 180
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Top end dis assembly

Undoing head nuts:



Loosening heads (also lots of WD 40):



Getting top off:



1st glance on heads:




and cylinders:




cylinders look good - honing marks are still in place:




Taking apart rockers/shafts:





Packed, labeled:



and stored:

Old 06-07-2015, 04:26 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #58 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
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Top end dis assembly continued

After all rockers are removed cam just slides out:




remove all nuts:


after that cam housing can be separated from heads:

Old 06-07-2015, 04:37 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #59 (permalink)
Oleg Perelet
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 180
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Head dis assembly

Here are head components:



I used my old Sears valve compressor. Set it up, compress, remove valve keepers (collet #2):







Removing valve seals:





Checking valve play:



Factory valve play specs here:




Factory spec calls for 0.80mm play. My exhaust valves had 0.40-0.60 play. I do not regret that I replaced valve guides - after put car together it never produces white smoke on startup. So not "all of them do that"
Old 06-07-2015, 05:12 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #60 (permalink)
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