Replacing Oil Lines

911nut · 911nut's Garage

Finally finished up one of my winter projects; replacing oil lines.
The old lines were showing their age. The big -16 line from the engine to the thermostat was weeping and the short lines between the oil tank and the thermostat were beginning to crack.
Problem was Porsche wanted $450 for the -16 line. Besides being gold plated, how long had it been sitting in a warehouse in the Fatherland? I decided to make my own, reusing the thermostat end as no hose has a prayer of fitting without it. Here's what I ended up with:

Next, I removed the old short lines and dropped the thermostat to replace the o-ring in it. I pulled the oil tank out to do a little cleaning. Lastly, I threaded the -16 line in alongside the oil tank and re-installed everything.

By far the toughest part of the job was getting the oil tank back into position once the -16 line was in place. It was cold in my garage so that big hose was extra stiff.

911nut · 911nut's Garage

Since I'm installing an M&K 993 heat exchanger-based header, I needed a new oil line to run from the backdated line I had to add that runs under the bell housing to the stock line. I ended up making a Aeroquip stainless braided -16 line with cutter style metric fittings and a union to join to the stock -16 line I had made up. I chose the stainless line because I needed a tighter radius than I could get using the nylon braided line. Here's the end result:

All in all, this was a satisfying project. I'm glad that I won't have to do it again for another 15 years, however.

Don Plumley · Don Plumley's Garage

Very Nice!

Pete000 · 03-09-2009, 02:53 PM

You should sell a kit.

My lines are starting to weap a bit now. No leaks but a bit wet to the touch.

indigowhale · 05-21-2009, 05:17 AM

That -16 line went on me yesterday, what a mess. Good thing I caught in time, but I had drive home with it almost squriting. Topped it off before starting. Got a big mess to clean up.

I am thinking of using this replacement: W0133-1646121-OEA, about 244 bucks since I can't make my own. This seems a design flaw since the trainling arm of suspension hits this line every time if flexes, at least on my 964.

Can I do this without removing the oil tank and the oil filter housing? I had planned to sell the car before this for a 993, so I am not sure I want to spend scads of time and money. The short hoses seem fine, but if I have to remove them for this, I rather just buy new ones.

The dealer put an updated engine in not too long ago.

Thanks for the photos.

911nut · 911nut's Garage

It's a big messy job.
It's a tight fit for that line as it sits between the body and the oil tank. I think it could be done leaving the oil tank in place but there will be so much dirt that the risk of oil system contamination is big.
In the long run, I believe you would be better off using the OE line (they are far cheaper for the n/a 964 than the turbo line) and all the return lines. It would make a good selling point. There's nothing worse than a half- arsed repair job.

911Urge · 911Urge's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911nut

It's a big messy job.
It's a tight fit for that line as it sits between the body and the oil tank. I think it could be done leaving the oil tank in place but there will be so much dirt that the risk of oil system contamination is big.
In the long run, I believe you would be better off using the OE line (they are far cheaper for the n/a 964 than the turbo line) and all the return lines. It would make a good selling point. There's nothing worse than a half- arsed repair job.

I agree with 911nut.

I did this exact job several months ago. I was able to replace the big oil line without removing the tank. Remove the oil lines from the thermostat to the oil tank and the two small lines from the tank in the wheel well. Then loosen the two small nuts that hold the oil tank and you can replace the line. All those lines were so old and brittle it just makes sense to replace them for the relatively small cost.

I removed the shark fin and lower rocker and degreased and power washed the area all around the thermostat and oil tank prior to starting to keep the oil, dirt & grime to a minimum.

indigowhale · 05-22-2009, 12:57 PM

Thanks folks that is good advise and those are good pictures. Maybe I am being cheap, but I just changed the oil (mobil 1) and I'd hate to do it again.

I cleaned the area with pressure, so it does look clean.

If I only do the upper hose, can I get away with not draining the oil tank?

Anyone got a promo I can take advantage of on Pelican? $350 for 3 oil lines seem a bit on the high side.

Don Settergren · Don Settergren's Garage

Drop your oil lines off at a big diesel truck repair shop. They'll crimp new rubber hoses on for about $150. The crimped on fittings are the most expensive part. Mine work perfectly, were stiff, but not nearly as nice looking as 911nut's (only plain back)!

indigowhale · 05-26-2009, 04:16 AM

Well I bit the dust and bought $400 worth of parts from Pelican. They had the 36mm spanner which is necessary, the 6 rocker panel clips, and just about anything. My only complain is the time they will take to get to the east coast. I used simple green and cleaned up the wheel well quite nice. Will post pics of my progress soon.

v911king · 06-05-2012, 02:50 PM

Hi on the -16 line at the top where do you fit it two? the tank or the oil filter houseing. And was it very hard get it off. Also how hard was it to replace the o-ring in the thermostat was that leaking also. Thanks Vernon

Vandit · 06-08-2012, 07:01 PM

Line 16 goes from the oil filter console to the thermostat.

I'm looking to replace the two clamped-on lines from the bottom of the tank to the thermostat. Can these lines be removed w/o unbolting/moving the tank? I'm afraid of upsetting the lines on the side of the tank (which don't need replacing) if I have to move the tank around.

BoxsterGT · 06-09-2012, 04:09 AM

This 964 oil hose assy.........

....... I get $120 for, but you must pull the tank to install it.

I can re-hose your old hose assy if your fittings are good, or make just about any custom oil hose with the correct Metric fittings (M30x1.5 in this case)

New fittings are typically $25 to $30ea and the Braided Zinc 30mm hose is $50 per Meter. Crimp sleeves are $5ea and there is no charge for assembly or crimping.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

BoxsterGT · 06-09-2012, 04:45 AM

One concern I have is the type of crimp sleeve used by most local hydraulic shops when Re-Hosing original assemblies. The sleeve used is too long and they usually crush the rubber hose much too tight in the area of the bump on the fitting. What results is a premature failure of the replacement hose...............

Using the correct crimp sleeves, crimped properly results in this.............

On fuel hoses, the issue is even more critical. Heres a typical hose fitting showing the distinct bump to retain the hose onto the fitting..............

And heres what happens when the wrong crimp sleeves are used.........

If you want to have your own hoses done locally, I am happy to sell just the crimp sleeves themselves. They are $5ea for Oil hose applications and $5 per pair for Fuel hose applications.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

Vandit · 07-22-2012, 06:15 AM

Guy, what size wrenches do I need for the oil line fitting nuts on the oil filter console, on the thermostat, and on the oil cooler? I have a 964. I want to go buy some big wrenches. Thanks!

LouZ · 07-22-2012, 06:51 AM

Vandit

The big nuts are 32mm & 36mm. I got a full set of THIN metric wrenches from Harbor Freight, cheap, but thet do the job for such limited use.

Vandit · 08-04-2012, 09:22 PM

Any advice on replacing the upper shorty hose w/ the bump in it?

The one visible here.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/imgdsply.cgi?pn=96420713004-M260
964-207-130-04-M260

I cut off the old hose. Now i'm tring to replace it and can't create enough room to get the new hose in there. I loosened the tank and was able to slide it back and down (bottom of tank against the trailing arm) a bit, but it doesn't seem like enough. What's the technique?

porterdog · 08-06-2012, 09:00 AM

Looks like maybe you could install it onto the car side first, putting it on further than necessary and then connect the tank side, moving the new hose back out to the proper position?

And of course, lube it well.

Another thought- on another car years ago I had to install an almost-too-small hose onto an almost-too-large fitting. I put the new hose into some hot motor oil (heated on the stovetop) to soften it some.

Vandit · 08-06-2012, 07:19 PM

Just an update, a little pot of boiling water for a couple of minutes just prior to install was all they needed to be persuaded to fall into place. Worked out great! I started on the tank side then pushed it into place onto the car side. Same w/ the hose below it, tank side, then pushed the tube side into place.

Alan Goettel · 10-12-2012, 09:05 AM

I ended up buying an OEM replacement for old #16. The ends of the hoses got bent up trying to to get the fittings apart. I ended up cutting the hoses to spin the couplers out of the filter housing and thermostat ends.

I ended up taking the thermostat housing out to make sure that I didn't leave any crap to find my oil pump. My question relates to the two hoses that go to/from the front cooler. Can new ends be crimped to the copper sections, or would it be best to re-sweat the copper pipe end fitting.

Sorry for no pictures, Thanks,

Alan