Engine drop advice...

[schubee]

All right, I need your guys' help. I need to replace the two major oil lines and I already removed the complete exhaust. The clutch is the original (104K) and would need to be replaced very soon. It also looks like the cam covers are leaking as well. I'm thinking about dropping the engine now and do a thorough cleaning, reseal, and clutch. Past records indicated that it was resealed at about 20K. However, the PO left the undertray on and this could have caused some leakage, not sure though. Being a new owner, I'm not that familiar with the G50 and what needs to be done or disconnected for a successful drop. Here are some questions:

* How difficult is it to bleed the clutch.
* Should I remove the rear bumber for more clearance.
* Is there anything I should remove on the top (i.e. heater blower, air cleaner, ect...)
* I heard that a motorcycle jack would be the ticket instead of a regular two ton. I saw one at Sears for about a hundy.
* Would I need a special engine stand.
* What other mods would you consider since I have the engine out. Be realistic, I'm on a tight budget.

I'm sure more questions will come up once I start this project. Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.

[eion]

Originally posted by schubee
* Should I remove the rear bumber for more clearance.

Not necessary, but I can't see it hurting anything.

Originally posted by schubee
* Is there anything I should remove on the top (i.e. heater blower, air cleaner, ect...)

Yes. The heater blower, the engine electronics board cover, and the air filter cover with the filter. Also, the AC compressor needs to be removed from the console.

Originally posted by schubee
* Would I need a special engine stand.

Yes - a 5-arm engine stand. Porsche part number 000.721.201.00. You'll also need the engine mounting plate (000.721.911.13) and it's adapter (000.721.911.11). The plate and adapter look improviseable.

Hope this helps!

[schubee]

Thanks eion, your expertise is greatly apprectiated. I can always count on your advice. It sounds like the engine stand alone is $$. Do you think I really need one? Or can I accomplish everything without one?

[eion]

I would not attempt to do this without the proper engine stand. I'm sure that someone on the board would be willing to lend or at least rent you the tools (it's the same stand for all 911s) - you need a generic engine stand and the 'holding fixture' - P201, part number 000.721.201.00, which plugs into the stand. The holding fixture is $230 from our host (http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/ptoo/POR_PTOO_miscel_pg1.htm), and then there's the cost of the stand (or the bench clamp thing, but I don't like the looks of that). If you really wanted to and were very careful then yes, I'm sure you could do without the stand - but like I say, I wouldn't. The amount of damage that could potentially be done to your engine means it just isn't worth it IMO .

The combination of the undertray and the southern California heat probably hasn't done the engine any favours. You may want to (well, need to) replace your valve guides. You could also check for leaks around the (infamous) cylinder heads.

I've sent you a PM, by the way.

edit: clarity