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Damage to master or slave when clutch peddle dropped?

Shifting is notchy after clutch peddle went to floor. ( no resistance on shift fork after clutch change screw up ) Does this damage these cylinders after this happens ? Thanks

Old 03-26-2015, 10:56 AM
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Ari
 
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There is advice of the form "Do not press the clutch pedal at all while the slave cylinder is removed from the transmission." My thought is that the master is just a fluid pump so you can't harm it, but the slave is a hydraulic piston with a return spring so it is possible that the spring, seals, or something else would be damaged by it being extended beyond its limit, such as by applying the clutch pedal when there is no release fork to resist the movement of the slave cylinder.

Did you replace your slave cylinder as part of the original clutch job? If you still have the old one, you could try putting it back on to see if that cures your current symptom. If it does, then order another new one because you'll be so anxious to install another one with the engine in the car by now...
Old 03-26-2015, 11:10 AM
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Bleed the system before you go to the trouble of changing out the slave cylinder...
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Old 03-26-2015, 12:33 PM
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Thanks for info guys!
Old 03-26-2015, 12:51 PM
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It seems to over travel and somehow flip the seal over negating it
Old 03-26-2015, 05:40 PM
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I bled the slave. No difference. Replaced slave and bled. No difference. I guess I'll drive it until the synchros give up a bit more ?
Old 04-07-2015, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by wesleyc View Post
I guess I'll drive it until the synchros give up a bit more ?
You're kidding....Right?
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Old 04-07-2015, 11:56 AM
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What else could it be? I'm going to put some new pads on and bleed brakes. Maybe that'll help a bit ? I'm afraid digging in the trans is above my skillset ? I haven't read up at all on it...
Old 04-07-2015, 12:14 PM
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It's just 3rd gear that's giving me a bit of trouble. As long as I stick it good and hold it when shifting to 3rd it's not a issue. Still something I didn't have to do before clutch job?
Old 04-07-2015, 12:24 PM
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You shouldn't have to hold the shifter in gear when you shift. If the transmission was shifting well before the clutch job and is now giving you trouble after the clutch job, then there's a very strong chance that the problem is with the work that was done on the clutch and/or the engine/transmission reinstall, not the internals of the transmission.

I'd thoroughly bleed the clutch master and slave in the proper sequence and check the bushings/connections on the shifter and linkage and see if you can't get things working properly.

Otherwise, you'll end up paying big $ for a transmission rebuild if you keep banging those gears.
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Old 04-07-2015, 01:54 PM
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Any chance the shifter linkage did not go together perfectly when you put it back together?
Old 04-07-2015, 02:01 PM
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Shift linkage was put in correct. I checked. I'll bleed again with the power bleeder. It seems almost like when I installed engine back into the car I put it in too far forward ? I will look things over again when I get a chance. Thanks guys.
Old 04-07-2015, 04:18 PM
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Put the car on jack stands. Start it. Put it in gear and experiment with the clutch to make sure it's fully disengaging when only the drag of the brake pads is there to stop the axles from turning and not the inertia of the car sitting on its wheels. That should help narrow down the problem. You can also have someone move the shifter while you watch the linkage move under the car, with the engine off of course. See if it is binding on something when moved into the third gear position.
Old 04-07-2015, 05:14 PM
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Great idea ! I'll probably find its something simple that I've overlooked. Thanks.
Old 04-07-2015, 07:13 PM
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I have the same issue and I'm thinking it's the master cylinder. Mine engages the clutch, but sometimes the pedal does not come all the way up so you don't have any freeplay. Has anyone else had the clutch go to the floor and stay there? What causes this? I heard it happens when the engine is off and the clutch is depressed multiple times, leading me to believe its relying on accumulated pressure.

ChuckJ

Last edited by ChuckJ; 05-01-2015 at 02:25 PM..
Old 05-01-2015, 02:22 PM
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Finally had time to throw new pads and bleed. Afterward I raised the rear of the car up way higher then the front. Bled slave with power bleeder at 23psi. Then drove it and it shifted great ! Shifted into 3rd like new ! Thanks guys! I'll never underestimate my ability to do wrong what I think I'm doing right.
Old 05-16-2015, 04:09 PM
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That's good news. You've earned it for sure.
Old 05-17-2015, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Bled slave with power bleeder at 23psi
At that psi, you're lucky you didn't rupture your reservoir. Should be no more than 15 psi. Consider the age and material of the master res.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine9six View Post
At that psi, you're lucky you didn't rupture your reservoir. Should be no more than 15 psi. Consider the age and material of the master res.
I was going by what the Bentley blue book said which was 22psi and not to exceed 29psi. But they aren't considering 20 year old lines and reservoirs. I'll heed your advice. Thanks.

Old 05-19-2015, 08:03 AM
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