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clutch bleeding woes
Anyone struggle with bleeding the clutch slave on your 993?
Mine is wearing me out. Pressure bled the brakes, then went to the clutch. Clutch had been working fine, when I bled it all air came out....then fluid. When I get in the car, no clutch at all. Pumped and pumped and bled, nothing. Replaced the clutch master cylinder, the clutch slave, and the hydraulic line to the slave, bleed again. Finally got some pedal pressure, went back to bleed a little more from the slave, again no pedal pressure at all.... Have been using motive pressure bleeder, 5 psi. Even tried cracking the line at the clutch master cylinder again, bled some air out. What am I missing? |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 345
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A couple of things come to mind:
Since you replaced the master, slave and hydraulic line; make sure all of the connections are properly threaded and tight so as to not be drawing air into the system at those connections. Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't drop too low while you're bleeding the system. If it does, it will draw air into the system and you'll have to start over. Finally, for me at least, it sometimes helps to just step away from the car for a couple of hours and let my blood pressure return to normal. Many times, that's all it takes to get the job done... ![]()
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Terry |
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Exactly what I had to do.
I was using to motive dry, wonder if wet would be better? |
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Perhaps a bit more pressure on the bleeder ? I had no luck with 10psi or under. The service manual says 1.5 ( 22psi). And not exceed (29psi). I know our cars are getting older. So beware of rupturing hose or tank though... Or TMc good advice of stepping back to lower your blood pressure is an excellent idea
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Registered
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All good advice. Walked away from it yesterday, got my youngest son off to college today, came back, bled again with more pressure. Back to normal.
thanks all. |
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Registered
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I always bleed mine with fluid in the motive, and 20 lbs, of pressure.
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 447
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I push a liter of ATE fluid through my clutch & brake circuits every year. You're right, accessing the clutch slave is a pain and I've done it for ten years on my 993.
That said, I do the clutch circuit first and make sure to keep the reservoir topped off. I also use the Motive 'dry' and usually keep it at 15+ psi. Andreas
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1995 993 Coupe, Polar Silver / Black 2014 Audi A4, Monsoon Gray / Black 2002 Toyota 4Runner, Dorado Gold 2001 Toyota 4Runner, Dorado Gold, 599,XXX 1-owner miles 1998 Toyota 4Runner, Oxidized, 5-speed |
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Denver
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Try depressing the clutch pedal and cracking the line that goes into the top of the cylinder on the pedal end while the pedal is depressed. Make sure to have a rag to catch the fluid. The problem often is the loop just after the cylinder is where the air gets trapped.
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Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 42
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Because I was spoiled with my 964 race car (remote clutch bleed on the Tilton annular bearing)...
I am making up a clutch slave bleed extension for my 944S2 (which also requires removal of the starter to bleed). Have found the required M6x1 to AN-3 adapter and will have a 30" line made up to run into the engine bay. $30 can save a LOT of hassle. Bleed the clutch standing up.
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964 RSA - Slightly modified PCA GT4 NASA GTS4 |
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resident samsquamch
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cooterville, Cackalacky
Posts: 6,815
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Quote:
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-jeff back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2 *SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction... "Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP ![]() |
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Quote:
Andreas
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1995 993 Coupe, Polar Silver / Black 2014 Audi A4, Monsoon Gray / Black 2002 Toyota 4Runner, Dorado Gold 2001 Toyota 4Runner, Dorado Gold, 599,XXX 1-owner miles 1998 Toyota 4Runner, Oxidized, 5-speed |
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resident samsquamch
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cooterville, Cackalacky
Posts: 6,815
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Me too. So that's why I think this could be a serious time saver.
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-jeff back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2 *SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction... "Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP ![]() |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 42
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Quote:
You need a simple M6x1 to AN-3 (or NPT) adapter to replace the bleed nipple. Have a shop make up a line, install bleeder at the other end and run it into the engine bay. Done.
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964 RSA - Slightly modified PCA GT4 NASA GTS4 |
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I've owned my 993 for more than ten years and get a great deal of satisfaction doing all of the maintenance myself. At minimum, I do an oil change and a brake & clutch circuit flush every year (~3,000 mile annual use).
But there is one item that has consistently irritated me - the location of the clutch slave bleed screw. I absolutely loathe that diminutive fastener. Getting to it, keeping a 7mm wrench centered on the flats, and hoping the bleed hose stays in place are all less than enjoyable. Ever since I saw a remote bleeder located in the LR wheelwell of a 993, I've wondered about relocating my own. In the case of that car, N -3 ( 3AN) to M6x1.0 Metric Stainless Steel Adapter clutch is a Tilton setup that utilizes an annular bearing (hydraulic release bearing vs. our slave-actuated setup). So a few months ago I started thinking about this again and wondered where the best location for the bleed screw would be. My 993 has been on stands for a few weeks for the usual maintenance, so I took the opportunity to forge ahead. When looking at the car from the side (on stands, wheels off), it's clear that the slave cylinder is quite a bit higher than the inner arch of the wheelwell (body structure). So locating a bracket there made no sense as the bleed nipple should theoretically be the highest point in the system. I realized that mounting the bleed nipple above the intake manifold (old skool, non-Varioram) would afford both the height I wanted, as well as easy access. I'll let the pics explain the modification, but in short I purchased an M6 to AN-3 adaptor to replace the bleed screw, a 36" length of AN-3 braided line (one end straight, one end 90 degrees), a bulkhead fitting, and a 3/8" x 24 bleed screw. I fabricated the bracket from a short section of 1-1/2" x 3/16" steel and mounted it to the four existing threaded inserts on the manifold. Result: it works perfectly! The modification is completely reversible should I wish to ever put myself through the misery of bleeding from the stock location. Something tells me that won't happen. For reference, I found the M6 to AN-3 adaptor on Ebay UK, while the line, bulkhead fitting and bleed screw came from Pegasus Racing. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Andreas Last edited by AOW162435; 05-19-2016 at 06:40 PM.. |
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Garage Woolery
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Thank you for the writeup, especially including the parts needed, sizes, and where you sourced them. This allowed me to track them down and buy the parts so I can do this mod myself
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My Porsche: 1996 Porsche 993 Carrera 2 Other cars: 2014 Chevy Volt, 2006 Lotus Exige, 2000 Corbin Sparrow, 1990 Mazda Miata |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ellicott City, MD
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My pleasure. ![]() Andreas |
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