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Thanks Len,

I opened fitting #15 and put the air to it and there was still some fuel in the line so that's great news. I was worried the lines would be full of dried up sludge.
The air blows clear without restriction so no blockages. When I get the pump installed I plan to run gas through the lines to flush them out without allowing the gas to return to the tank.

Of course when you go to fix one problem you usually find others on an old car like this, right?
While accessing fitting #15 I noticed that the crank sensor male connector had crumbled to bits and the CHT sensor was also in a bad state. I have done a ton of research on this common problem and have ordered some connectors that I hope will fit. The sensors are probably fine and I don't want to do the teardown needed in order to replace them when I can just install a new connector.

Today marked the first day since the car arrived a month ago, that I actually got to install some new parts, like the in-tank fuel filter, rubber fuel hoses on bottom of tank, and new hood shocks.
After a month of taking things apart and waiting for parts to arrive it felt great to reach the assembly stage.
Old 04-21-2018, 03:19 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #81 (permalink)
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Anything new to report?
Old 06-04-2018, 07:02 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #82 (permalink)
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I have not worked on the car for a month or so, so not too much to report. I did get the fuel circuit completely flushed and working. Fuel now flows from tank to engine and back to tank just like it is supposed to. I have not pulled the injectors and am hoping I don't have to.

The parts have arrived for my crank sensor plug rebuild and it looks like everything will fit. When I know it all fits I will provide details in another post. FYI, as a backup I ordered a new crank sensor with the old style plug but the vendor sent the new style. So be warned and make a phone call first if you are looking for a sensor with the old style plug. It seems that some vendors will substitute without even asking and I really don't want to cut into my wiring harness and deal with sensor wires that are too short to use the factory wire routing. My goal is to keep the car as original as possible so I am sticking with the old style plugs on all my sensors.

Once the sensor plugs are fixed I could attempt to fire it up, but I probably should at least check the valve clearance while I have so many parts already out of the way. From what I have read, this can be somewhat challenging and requires removing a lot more parts. Sigh. I should be able to get back to working on the car soon and will have more updates. Thanks for asking!
Old 06-06-2018, 05:19 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #83 (permalink)
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Thanks for the update, look forward to following your progress.
Old 06-07-2018, 09:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #84 (permalink)
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964 are fun to work on ..lol
good luck and valve adjust is easy and a total MUST for the 3.6 engine...
hard to kill it.. the smoking leaks is why are are usually parked..
Old 06-14-2018, 06:30 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #85 (permalink)
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Sleeping Beauty is awake!!!!!!!

:

She Lives!!! She is awake!!! She started up on the 2nd try and filled my basement with smoke. Wife was not too pleased but I am overjoyed to hear it run and the smoke was already tapering off when the boss shut me down. Had to open all the windows and turn fans on. I was planning on doing all this ventilation work in advance but said to myself, "it's not going to start, there will be more problems so I will just give the starter a couple of quick jabs and it fired on the 2nd jab.

After 15+ years in storage, purchased and shipped from the Caribbean, and almost 3 months of research and work, it is so satisfying to get to this stage. Still lots of work lies ahead, but this milestone has re-energized my soul.

Old 06-26-2018, 04:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #86 (permalink)
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Crumbled sensor connections fix

As promised in an earlier post, I said I would provide details of how I fixed the crank sensor, and CHT sensor connectors that had literally disintegrated. As I understand it this is a fairly common problem and this is how I solved it.

I am pleased with the results but it took some time to figure out what parts were needed and where to get them and also to come up with a procedure for the repair.

I will post here what I learned so that it might save others some time and trouble and allow them to learn from my mistakes.

First off, a few words as to why I went to the trouble of sticking with the old style connectors.

The OEM connectors are molded permanently onto the sensor wire and normally you would have to buy and install a new sensor. To make matters worse Porsche changed the design of the connector which makes it incompatible with the mating connector and thus requires a modification to your main wiring harness. Porsche no longer sells the old style sensors. Also if your sensor is OK it seems a shame to replace it when a connector swap can allow you to retain your working sensor and maintain the originality of your car. Also, some of these sensors are very hard to replace without dropping the engine, so you save yourself the time and frustration of installing new sensors, not to mention you save some $$.

Others who have tried to fit the new style sensors on their 964’s have complained that the wires are not long enough and alternate routing is required and in some cases the wire gets bent at a sharp angle where it exits the connector. Not good. The reason for these shortcomings is that the new sensor is designed for the 993 not the 964.

Some vendors claim to still be able to supply the old style sensors and that is fine if your old sensor died, but in my case the sensors were good so I chose to just swap out the connector. After lots of searching I found a good, reliable supplier for connectors that fit the mating connectors on the harness, eliminating any need to cut and splice into the main wiring harness.

TE Connectivity is the manufacturer of all the needed components and I sourced them from their distributor, Mouser Electronics Inc. (www.mouser.com or www.mouser.ca ) (Pronounced Mowzer).

All part numbers specified are TE numbers. Prices are in Canadian dollars.

The connector you need for each sensor is:
1-962581-2 $6.28 each

The tabs that fit inside the above connector are:
1-962916-2 (these are silver plated) $0.88 each

The blue wire seals that keep dirt and water out of the connector are:
828904-1 $0.32 each
828922-1 $0.15 each (this is a sealing plug with no wire hole. You will need this to plug the third hole in the connector when you are wiring up a two-wire sensor)

I could not source a rubber boot for the connector. I even called tech support at TE and they advised that they do not make a rubber boot for this connector. I found a very close match but no amount of stretching could get it to fit. I even tried cutting it to fit and that attempt failed. The solution was to use heatshrink or self-sealing tape or both.

To get this connector to fit perfectly into the support bracket in the engine bay requires slight mods. The groove in the connector needs to be made 0.030” wider and 0.020” deeper. The groove should end up about 0.094” wide so a 3/32” diameter end mill is perfect. I cut mine on a drill press with a cross-sliding vise. If you are good with a file or a Dremel tool, that can work too.

Here is the procedure that I used to install the connectors once the groove had been re-shaped:

Procedure to install 1-962581-2 to 964 engine sensors.
(includes Crank, Knock and CHT sensors)


1) Remove old connector. To give yourself as much wire as possible, I recommend crushing the old connector with a C-clamp and then clip the tabs off leaving as much wire as possible.

2) Strip at least 2.5” of the outer insulation from main casing. This is quite important as the blue wire seals are not guaranteed to be watertight if the exit angle of the wire exceeds 5 degrees. Ask me how I know this.

3) Peel back the braided shield. Use a dental pick or similar tool to unbraid the shielding. Work slowly from the cut end of the wire until you have close to 2.5” unbraided. Twist these braids tightly to form a wire.

4) Slide the blue wire seals onto each of the three sensor wires. Make sure the seals go on in the correct direction. The small diameter of the seal needs to be closest to the connector. The CHT sensor only uses two wires and since the connector has three holes you need to plug the middle hole. This can be done with a special wire seal that has no wire hole but I did not know these were available. See above for the part number for the “sealing plug”. Since I did not have a sealing plug, I just inserted a short piece of wire into the hole to keep water from going in. If you decide to use silicone seal anywhere on this connector make sure you use the stuff designed for electrical connections. Anything else can be corrosive.

5) Strip 5mm of insulation from small wires. The strip length is quite fussy so take your time to get it right. These wires are equivalent to AWG 20. Use the smallest wire stripper you have since you won’t have much working space in the engine bay.

6) OPTIONAL - Slide small heatshrink over stripped wires and over main wire. If you opt for this step, make sure the shrink ratio of the heat shrink is adequate. You might need a 4:1 ratio. For now push the heatshrink well out of the way.

7) OPTIONAL - Slide large heatshrink over small heatshrink. This will cover the connector and the smaller heatshrink. For now push the heatshrink well out of the way. If you take this step, try to find heatshrink to match the color of the mating connector to avoid incorrect assembly of the connectors as all three are identical.

8) Cut the tabs (the electrical contacts) from the band and preform the crimps by hand unless you have the ultra-expensive special crimping tool. I found that using small, clean drill bits and a small pair of pliers, allowed me to pre-form the crimps quite nicely. Leave the pre-form enough oversize to allow insertion of the stripped wires that are 0.8mm in diameter. I started with a #43 drill bit and finished with a #54. I also pre-formed the crimp for the blue wire seals in the same manner but with a #27 drill bit. It is much nicer to do all this work at the bench as opposed to reaching so far into the engine bay.

9) Now the hard part of working in the cramped engine bay.
Double check to make sure the blue wire seals and heatshrink (if used) have been installed onto the wires and then manually attach and crimp the three tabs onto the wires. I used a normal automotive crimping tool to crush the pre-formed crimp onto the stripped wires. It’s a good idea to bench test this on a scrap tab with a scrap piece of wire first.

10) Solder all connections. I found it helpful to apply duct tape to keep the wires from moving around too much while crimping and soldering.

11) Slide wire seals into place and crimp with small pliers.

12) Slide tabs into the correct positions in the connector making sure they lock into place. See below for positioning information. The wire seals will put up a lot of resistance as they enter the connector so at that point, turn the connector over and pull directly on the tab instead of trying to push on the wire. In engineering school they teach you that you cannot push on a rope. Good lesson.

13) OPTIONAL – If you opted for this step earlier, now is the time to slide the small heatshrink over the wires and apply heat.

14) Apply self-sealing tape to cover the connector and the wires.

15) OPTIONAL - If you opted for this step earlier, now is the time to slide the large heatshrink over the small heatshrink and apply heat.

16) If you did not use heatshrink and want to color-match with the mating connector, you can apply colored electrical tape over the self-sealing tape, or try to source colored self-sealing tape.

17) Now you are ready to install the fully assembled connector back into the support bracket.

Tab positions can be found and confirmed in 993 KD-NR. 97 50 41 and in factory electrical diagrams found in the workshop manual. Please triple check before you insert the tabs into the connector as they are not easy to remove once they lock into place. With great effort and the assistance of two small paperclips I was able to remove one tab but this was done at my desk on a test connector. Attempting this in the confines of the engine bay might make one suicidal.

For the Crank Sensor (Pulse Sender)
#1 = White (conductor is 0.5 sq. mm and 0.8mm diameter ) = AWG 20 ( I believe all sensor wires are the same size)
#2 = Brown
#3 = Shield

For the CHT sensor
#1 = Black/Red
#2 = Dummy
#3 = Brown

For the Knock sensor
#1 = White
#2 = Brown
#3 = Shield


I have included a few photos in the next posting. If you have any questions you can PM me or post here.
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:04 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #87 (permalink)
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Photos of connector procedure







Old 07-11-2018, 04:13 PM
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Photos of connector procedure-2





Old 07-11-2018, 04:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #89 (permalink)
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Just caught up on this thread.

Great to see the video of it firing up!!

The flat six design can let oil seep into the bottom end during long term storage.
Probably some in the exhaust system now too.
It should eventually clean out for the most part.

Keep us updated and congrats on getting it running again!
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Old 07-28-2018, 12:08 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #90 (permalink)
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Valve Adjust Tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxnine11 View Post
The flat six design can let oil seep into the bottom end during long term storage.
Probably some in the exhaust system now too.
It should eventually clean out for the most part.

Keep us updated and congrats on getting it running again!
Thanks. I was a bit worried by the excessive smoke and did a bit of research and learned all about the dangers of overfilling with oil. I suspect that happened when I pulled the dipstick and it was dry, so it became a nightmare for me. The engine has to run to check the oil, but if no oil shows on the dipstick, how can I be sure that the engine has any oil at all before I start it for the first time? Not wanting to test fire on a dry engine, I added just enough to show on the stick and I think that was too much as I did find some oil in the intake. Lessons learned.

My next task is to check the valves which I understand is an ordeal, like most work on an air-cooled 911.To that end I made a tool for making it a bit easier. This tool is based upon other designs I have seen in this forum and elsewhere with an exact 36 degree angle of screwdriver rotation which will provide (hopefully) the exact 0.004" valve clearance. The knob allows quick adjustment and locking once one of the pointers aligns with a reference point on the engine. You do this with zero valve clearance and then rotate the screwdriver with pointer locked from the reference point until the other pointer lines up with the reference point and this will provide the exact correct clearance (in theory).
It sounds simple, but I am sure it will not be quite that simple and I will verify the clearance with a dial indicator until I get comfortable with the results.

Here are a couple of pictures.



Old 08-03-2018, 07:46 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #91 (permalink)
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Jackpoint help please

So I got underneath the 964 and am trying to figure out what the jacking points are supposed to look like. My rear ones have damage that looks like it was done by a tow truck driver using tow hooks in the jack points as a convenient tie down location. Grrrrr.

Can anyone tell me if the damaged hole was originally supposed to be a nice oblong hole to match the other one in the picture? If so, is there a preference for which oblong hole should be used if using the jackpads like these ones?

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Reverse-Logic-jack-pad-tool-for-Porsche-964-991-996-986-997-987-981/331232598632?hash=item4d1f005a68:g:ZAgAAOSwJb9Wrod H


Old 08-26-2018, 11:02 AM
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Looks like it could be undercoating causing them to look out of shape. The plate itself looks fine.
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #93 (permalink)
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In the middle two round holes, it is definitely undercoating. But the hole on the lower right corner of the photo has definite metal damage. I should have added a side view photo, where you could have seen that the metal had been pulled down by almost 3/8" in a very rounded shape, like a tow hook might cause. I bent it back as best as I can without using heat and then took the photo I posted.

I would greatly appreciate if anyone could snap a photo of their 964 rear jackpoint and post here.
Old 08-27-2018, 04:20 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #94 (permalink)
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I have a pic.
The outer hole on yours was deformed.

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Old 08-28-2018, 03:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #95 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazar01 View Post
I have a pic.
The outer hole on yours was deformed.

Thanks! That confirms my suspicions. I was perplexed for a while because both sides had identical deformations which were so smooth and even, it made me initially think it was done by the factory. Do we have a general consensus that a hockey puck placed anywhere within the area of the 4 holes will be safe to lift from? I would center the puck and not let it overhang by more than 1/4" or so.

I am using a QuickJack 5000 SLX and because the ramps have to be parallel within 2" and because the jackpoints are not parallel I am somewhat limited as to where I can lift from.
Old 08-28-2018, 06:17 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #96 (permalink)
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Sacrificial Oil

I am hoping for some advice.

Here is the situation. The car has been in storage for 15 years so of course it needs an oil change. I drained the oil from the tank and the engine, but because I was not able to run the engine until the thermostat opened, this means old oil remains in the lines up to the radiator and in the radiator itself.

I have repaired the engine so it should now run properly. So I can refill with oil, run until hot and then do another oil change. As I understand it, that should now drain most of the oil out of the radiator.

An oil change with the proper oil (don't worry, I am not starting an oil debate here) will be expensive and seems like a waste for just a few minutes of run time. So would it be ok to refill with a cheaper oil and once that is drained out along with the radiator oil, then I would put the expensive stuff in?

Or is there another solution? Can the rad and hoses be drained separately? What would you do if you were in my situation?
Old 09-22-2018, 05:58 PM
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Problem Solved!

My local retailer had Mobil 1 on sale for half price so I will use that as the "sacrificial oil".
Old 09-23-2018, 10:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #98 (permalink)
 
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You drained about 70% of the total oil just from the crankcase and oil tank.
The other 30% is inside the oil cooler and lines to the thermostat and tank.
I think the system has about 12 quarts.

With that much oil, I don't worry about the dirty oil left in the oil cooler and lines.
At 5k miles oil change interval, the oil is still fairly clean anyway.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #99 (permalink)
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