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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 62
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Share your autocross settings

Just finishing my first year Autocrossing. 18 events...currently in3rd for season championship and will make the driver runoff at the end of the year. There is a lot to learn beside driving.

1979 911 SC ROW
STOCK 3.0 ( thinking of CDI+ for next year)
Elephant Racing Rubber suspension
ER bump steer kit
Eibach drop link sway bars front and rear set at 24/24
15x 7 and 8 with Rival S 205/225
Rennline front strut brace
Rennline adjustable gas pedal
Track mats
Dead pedal
GTS Gran Tourismo seats.

Cornerbalanced lf 528. Rf 479
Lr 845. Lr 812
Front 1/32 toe out
Camber 2 negative

Rear toe out ?
Rear camber 2 negative.
Stock torsion bars.

Updates planned at end of season:

22/29 hollow plated torsion bars from Elephant Racing
Vonn Shocks at level 2 tuning.
Need to get more camber front and rear. ( maybe cambered ball joints front, camber max adjuster for rear)
Old 09-22-2019, 07:40 AM
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Revised....Engine was backdated to SSI’s and M&K 2 in 1 out.
Old 09-22-2019, 07:47 AM
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Rear toe out? That's not typical. It generally leads to the tail of the car stepping out very early. Fine in a FWD car with buckets of understeer, not so good in a tail-engined RWD car with a large potential for oversteer...

More typical in RWD cars is to have a bit of toe-in at the rear, and some toe-out at front for initial turn-in bite at lower speeds.

--DD
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:45 AM
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Rear toe-in (1/16) just a touch for good stability on braking and turn-in. You don't mention tires and that is performance mod #1, affecting nearly everything else. Some tires need a lot more camber than others.

Edit: Found it hidden in your wheel data. Rival S

I recommend changing to RE-71R and probably run 225 square for AX. On their 1st day the Rival and RE-71R have similar performance but I think the Rivals heat cycle out much more quickly and give up time long before giving up tread. RE-71R will also be much better in wet conditions. I would run 2.5* negative camber in front and 2.0* negative on the rear. This will give you a lot more bite up front, shorter braking distances, and the car will rotate more easily in tight transitions.
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Last edited by Cajundaddy; 09-22-2019 at 11:05 AM..
Old 09-22-2019, 10:53 AM
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You don't mention the group you run with. Read the rule books. Sometimes even a "minor" change can greatly impact the class you run in. For example, in my PCA region, if you install camber plates you go from P (prepared) to M (modified). Even if you LEAVE them at stock camber setting. The potential for cheating and/or the benefits are deemed worthy of having to go "play with the big boys"

On my 1978 SC I recall:

23mm front tb (too big)
30mm rear tb (not big enough)
22mm adj sways front and rear
Custom valved bilsteins
ran a combo of wheels:
1) 6 and 7 x 15 cookies with 205/225
2) 7 and 8 x 16 Fuchs with 225/245
3) 8 and 9 x 16 Fuchs with 225/245

Camber Truss

Max negative camber with oem components .. so maybe -2 degrees neg
Toe out in front (can't recall amount)
Toe in on rear (cant recall amount)

imho, when beginning, SEAT time and TIRES make the biggest single improvements.

After that, settings and equipment used come down to wallet as well as driver style. I prefer a car that oversteers at AX.. but since my cars double for DE use, I have to balance the two, or be able to easily change settings from one to the other.
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Last edited by racer; 09-23-2019 at 08:04 AM..
Old 09-23-2019, 05:34 AM
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I hate the RE71 on the 911, it's unhappy with slip angle, I have much more success on the Rival.

My favorite setup on my '84, SCCA STR legal still but not the max build I was at:

15x7/15x9 w/ 225&245 Rivals
Stock front torsions, big Addco front bar, KW camber plates ~2.8°, 1/16" toe in, minimum caster.
33mm rear TBs, OE rear sway, 3° rear camber, 1/8" rear toe in.

Bilsteins slightly overdamped in the front, double adjustable Hotbits rear shocks. KAAZ LSD set up as a reverse 1.5 with one set of plates disabled.

Car is a giggle factory. Good thrust on the shorty tires. Turns in way better than it should with the pinched fronts. Can induce oversteer or understeer at will, can be driven either precisely or thrown into corners with reckless abandon and figure it out when you get there. No problem adjusting the car to light slip angle drifts in sweepers, but you have to be real busy on the steering. Not the best car in slaloms, have to be mindful of that big pendulum out back, but can calm it down ok with shock settings. Overdriving can really cook those small rear tires, and I love me some overdriving, so I spray.

I think the car was ultimately slightly faster on the super stiff setup with the square 255s on 17x9s, but it was nowhere near as fun.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:24 AM
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61% rear, 39% front
That's a good balance ratio for an SC
Tires, tires, tires
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Old 09-26-2019, 11:26 AM
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In my experience you can't fit rubber that's too wide or get too much negative camber with bolt on parts.
Add a smidge of toe-out in the front and stockish toe-in in the rear.
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Old 10-17-2019, 07:29 AM
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I drive a 79 Euro spec SC and have almost the identical set up that you have with one exception. I am running 22mm front torsions and 31mm rears. I really like the balance for autocross.
Old 10-22-2019, 08:26 AM
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